dave92cherokee

I'll check tomorrow I think i might have the backer board in the garage somewhere. Not gonna be able to use it on mine, will let you know if I have one.

No problem they fit and don't leak so it's good enough for now and then can get correct size to go in it. Now thinking about getting out there tomorrow afternoon and installing the front coils and rear shackles I've got as well.

Got the solo bleeders in a while ago and weather finally warmed up enough for me to get out there today and get working on it. Replaced front and rear lines with extended lines and put the bleeders in front and rear. The front were the same size but the brakes on the rear D44 weren't 3/8" they were 10MM. The 3/8 fittings went in and tightened down without leaking so the thread pitch for the 10 and 3/8 must be very close. I held them up together comparing threads of both and they're just a hair off of matching. Once installed I started bleeding the system by myself but the bottle kept falling over so I had my wife come out to help. Started with the cap off the master cylinder as with all the air in the system from replacing the rubber hoses I knew it would use alot of fluid to flush through. Ran through all 4 with the cap off the master then put it on and went back through all 4 again. Entire system is flushed and ended up using about 1 1/2 bottles of fluid but now the pedal gets hard where it wouldn't before going the traditional route. I'm sure there's still some microscopic air bubbles in the system so eventually I'll be ordering the 10mm bleeders for the rear to make the fit better then probably take it to a brake shop so they can pull a vacuum on the system and give it a 100% flush and all traces of air out of the system. Until then the brakes are good for now.

Hell creek sells new 4.5" rear leafs that will keep it spring under. From what I've read on here they're pretty good like the other springs they sell. Planning on getting a set for my mj soon.

As much as I'd love to have this to build a truggy with hopefully someone on here will be able to pick it up and avoid it going to the crusher or anything. http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/4350749716.html

Worst failure I've had was in an old 92 xj sport i used to have. Did a tune up and decided to get the Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, good wires and coil and everything else. It ran good for a few days then one day about a mile or so from home all of a sudden I heard a pop, lost almost all power, and started billowing extremely thick white smoke from the exhaust. Limped it home fumigating the entire road and was only able to do about 5-10 MPH. Start checking things over and decided to pull the plugs to check them since they were the most recent thing that was done. Pulled #1 and #2 both fine, pulled #3 and it looked a little strange, the entire center electrode and porcelain and everything was missing. Looked in the plug hole and couldn't see anything so pulled the head to see what the damage was, thankfully the valves and head were ok but the dish on the piston was absolutely beat to hell and a hole going through it as well as the skirt broken off one side. So got to rebuild it with all new pistons, rods, bearings, rings, and champion copper plugs. After the rebuild it ran like a champ and could almost white smoke the 34" ltb's I had on it.

I don't have the body side but i'll check tonight and I think I might have an entire tail light harness sitting in the garage. Will check and let you know.

It's been a while since this was posted up and a few people have done the lift. My question is with doint the lift has anyone had any problems from their stock steering maxing out the angles on the TRE's or have you upgraded your steering and if so what did you upgrade to.

Well looks like I'm going to be the guinnea pig for the group, will be ordering the extended brake hoses from Alexia's budget lift recipe and will get these ordered and slapped in the manche. When I get them I'll take some pics on fitment and how well they work and post them here for anyone else thinking of getting them.

On the topic of speed bleeders, about to order the brake lines and speed bleeders and on summit racing website they've got some earls performance solo bleeders. Has anyone heard of them before or used something like these and if so how well did they work? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-280021erl/overview/

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4336014501.html http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4335919778.html Both listed for $1k and need full restoration but for someone interested could be a good project.

So the meet's been moved from the 23rd to the 3rd of march?

What about down here in shelbyville? Then it would be a little closer for the alabama folks to make it.

Great thanks hopefully having speed bleeders in front and rear will make it easier to bleed the brakes myself. I've tried having the wife help but never fails to release the pedal before I've got the bleeder closed off.

Looking to get some speed bleeders for the manche to make bleeding the brakes an easier 1 man job. I've got a beam axle front and mj 44 rear. I was looking on summitracing and they've got 4 different sizes and I'm unsure of which ones I need. They have 3/8", 10mm, 5/16", and 1/4". I know some people on here have them so if someone has them or know which thread I need for front and rear axle it would be appreciated. I've already gotten rid of the rear load sensing valve and it's just 1 brake line going to the rear. Was planning on getting the bleeder screws and new longer lines front and rear for the lift to put it all in at once and bleed and flush the entire system.

Well back home and ready to get started on the manche again. I posted on the tnjeeps page to see if I can get any help but haven't heard so I'm gonna ask the wonderful MJ crew here. Hopefully someone's close by in middle tn or northern alabama that would be willing to come by one weekend to lend a hand on the manche. I need to get the brakes bled and the 2x6 1/8" wall box tube welded in place for the rockers and the supports from the tube to the frame rails welded as well. Last time I welded the sheetmetal on the manche I kept blowing through with the 220v welder I was using, so hoping someone on here close has a small 110v welder and can weld sheetmetal decently that would mind coming over and lending a hand. If 1-2 people or 5-6 people want to come the more the merrier. Beer and pizza will be available for all who want to come help out and get the welding/brakes done and check it out in person.

With the vibes and the knocking on the floor first place I would start checking is the control arm bolts and bushings. Then I'd move to the tracbar and swaybar and make sure everything's tight there. It could also possible be the ujoints in the front drive shaft allowing it to wobble around some and transfer through the axle and into the steering maybe.

Not sure if they're the same but the 97 country i bought last year the previous owner swapped out the radio with one from a durango and said that the connections were the same and it works fine. As for me though I prefer the look, ability, and quality of aftermarket audio over cheap stock audio.

Looking through that thread I'd just go the route of deleting the mechanical fan and putting in another electric fan.

Unless he has custom made brackets that's not a comanche hitch that's a cherokee hitch which is why the 3 bolts on each side are going up where they would mount into the frame behind the bumper on each side of the gas tank. http://comancheclub.com/topic/26324-comanche-rear-receiver-hitch-dfw-tx/ That's a comanche hitch, they bolt to the sides.

Modifying it would be fun, bob the bed and have sno cones and slushies at the same time.

Must have been running for a very short amount of time otherwise the heat of the engine alone should start melting the front end.

:bowdown: :agree: :dunno: . :MJ 1: . Using the quick reply at the bottom of the screen after clicking on the smiley face it opens up a bar just under the txt window to click on which one's you want.

What about the temp sender on the back corner of the head? Could it have gotten damaged during some kind of recent work causing it to get broken and be the cause of the problem?

That leftover part looks like the contact and plug from a connector like they use in weather pack connectors.