dave92cherokee

You could get the pass side shaft from any 96- xj and then just block off the hole for the cad axle. Or you could get the shafts from a 97+ to get the larger u-joints that came in those years.

I've got a 3 piece slider in mine and from what I've seen alot of us with slider windows have the plastic locking clips break off. Is there anywhere to order them or is it one of those things you have to find in the JY or possibly the HELP section of the part store?

Aww hell just go all out.... Here's the link to the thread on NAXJA: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1107297

Chances are they'll probably total it due to the amount of front end damage. Lucky for you the front frame rails don't look like they got tweaked it's only the sheet metal in the engine bay. Straightening the front of the bay will be the hardest as a few years ago we had to do one for a NAXJA member. Best option for that would be if you find a 97+ for the fenders and front I'd cut off a good sized section to use as a patch panel instead of trying to straighten the existing metal.

Not easily as the front part of the liner would work around the visors but the back part of the MJ headliner has pretty big curves to follow the roof by the b pillars and over the window.

http://hansenandyoung.com/index.php?slb=1&itmpg=1&itm_id=314896 You are correct it is a vintage winding tester, missing the lid and a couple of cables but collectors might still be interested in it. One in good condition sold for $375 on ebay last year.

True if it's still stock suspension definately don't throw a longer shackle on it as when the stock rear springs sag they start to invert themselves and putting a lift shackle on weak, saggy, inverted rear springs begs for bigger problems. I was going under the assumption that it was lifted and the rear settled lower than the front did. Definately don't want to throw a bandaid on the broken leg of an xj when the factory rear springs settle such as lift shackle or air assist shocks.

Are you going to stick with the 4.11 gears you have now or are you planning to regear as well? If you're sticking with the 4.11's then i'd stick with 33's just to help mileage when on the road, if you're not worried about mileage such as it's part store runner or the like then definately go with 35's. If you do go with 35's though I'd recommend getting a cheap set of 17's like soft 8's or d windows as it would allow for bigger brakes to be installed in the future.

They would lift the back regardless of whether it's sua or soa, the difference would be that the xj shackles and mj shackles are different lengths. So the amount the shackles lift the back of our mj's would be different from the amount they would lift the back of an xj. How much of a difference is there, if it's a couple of inches he could look into shackle relocation brackets which give about 1.5" lift plus give the ability to get a better shackle angle in the back.

I've done it on an S10 I used to have, the boot material is available from places like leer that sell camper tops as it's commonly used to seal up the window of the camper top to the window of the truck cab. It just presses onto a metal lip but I added some silicone inside it to help make it water tight. Just make sure the seam is on the bottom close to the middle and then seal that to prevent exhaust fumes getting into the cab. As for needing a bed cover it's mainly for deterring thieves, if you build the box then anchor it from inside the box to the bed, and have the box all the way against the front of the bed and seal it up very well then it shouldn't be a problem. You could mount the speaker connection points on the front side of the box so there would be no sign of anything from the bed.

I'm sure it is according to the site but when you have them actuallly in your hand let me know if they are a direct bolt in before i order them for the manche too.

I'm needing some shocks for lifting the cheromanche. Was looking at the rusty's link you gave and wanting to know when you have them if the front shocks are ready to bolt in with the stud on top and the bar pin on bottom or if it's just dual eyelets like the pictures show on the website.

Also just to be sure but make sure that the sender you're using is one for guages and not the idiot light.

There should be no wire going from the starter relay to the fuel pump relay or fuel pump. The battery goes to the starter relay and fuel pump relay and most everything else through seperate fusible links. You didn't tell us what engine it's got but if it's the 4.0 there should be the red wire with the fusible link in it, orange wire which provides the power coming out of the relay, orange/tan wire which provides the ground for the relay, and yellow wire which connects to the ignition control module and ECM ignition signal to energize the relay. This would make it so that as soon as the truck is put in the on position it energizes the relay and turns on the fuel pump to prime it like it's supposed to. Looking at the ignition switch there should be a yellow wire that has power when it's in the on and start position but not when in the accessory position.

All the more reason we've told him to take it to a different shop to get an alignment done. The first shop was a hack and seems the guy that did it was stupid. He has the shims all messed up behind the control arms. I would leave them the way they are and take it with the first printout to a major tire shop. They should get a good laugh out of the readings and shim placement.

When doing all this work did you check and clean that ground point behind the drivers side light? That crappy ground is notorious for causing weird problems.

In those pictures you're throwing yourself off in getting the lineup of the steering versus the track bar. When editing the pic you want do draw a line from the center of mount to center of mount, not from grease zerk to random point. When tying off the string you went from the zerk to the bolt on both of them which is going to throw it off. For what you have going on with the angles I would look at a drop pitman arm but just a small drop of like an inch or so. If you drop the frame side of the track bar then it will create a bigger V shape between the two. This should help with the bump steer you're experiencing. As for the death wobble I would start by getting the tires re-balanced by a different shop, I would take out all shims on both sides and throw them in the glove box and have them do an alignment again. Making sure to tell them what the jeep recommended settings are then having the shims in the box if so needed to get there. This way when they have the before and after measurements you should be able to see a big change as pulling the shims will increase it greatly then they would have to add shims back in (should be same on both sides if axle isn't twisted) to get it down to the recommended setting.

If the readings are true that he gave you then it seems like the axle is twisted. If you look at the control arm mount pictures one side only has one shim and the other has a stack of them. My first recommendation would be take it to a different larger auto shop to have the tires balanced and alignment checked. The other thing that concerns me is the readings for the rear, its a straight axle how could the toe be out like it shows on the print out.

If you can get stock length shocks to fit with the current setup then it'd be fine for the road, however I don't think you'll get much articulation out of them. Mine's still SUA and when I was recently just under it putting in the 2" drop shackles in the rear I disconnected the shocks to let the axle droop further and they would only extend just a few inches past the axle/ubolt mounting point. While you may have some up travel available in them the down travel is what would limit you as the shocks would bottom out before the axle drooping all the way.

Check the common jeep 4.0 problems like valve cover leaking, sludge in valve cover, blow by, leaking rear main, things like that. If the price is good enough i wouldn't worry about the mileage.

I really doubt stock length shocks would fit as when i just got through putting in 2" shackles there was only about 1-2" left in the length of my stock rear shocks.

Thanks for the replies, was hoping it wouldn't affect the steering as when I was in the process of building up the cheromance I replaced all tre's, as well as sway bar bushings to tighten up the steering and body roll in the front. Already got the 2" shackles in the back and should have the RE drop brackets, and RE track bar with mount coming in this week so hoping to get out there and get the front finished off. Then I think instead of going SOA I'm just going to order a set of sua lift leaf springs to put in the back since this will be a pavement pounder/ gravel road rig.

Only way I've seen a difference is on the back side of the mount, can't really tell from the top side. If it was me I'd just pull the hole mount and cable and all, need to do that for my rig as well as the mount for the fender got lost.

Most of what you will find in auto parts stores won't fit the shape of the fender hole. Best option would be to get the antenna connection from a 96- xj at a JY. Some antennas are made to be able to unplug the cable from the mount on the firewall some aren't, when I had the fenders off my 93 while working on it I just removed the mount from the fender and let it hang there.

Checked just a while ago and the headliner board is still sitting in the storage shed. If you want it shoot me a pm and I'll give you my address to come pick it up.