dave92cherokee

That's freakin funny as he11

Yah I was finally able to find the bar i needed after digging through the book at advance. The bar came from an older ford I believe and fit perfectly, just kept it drums for now for the ease of parts, will eventually swap over to rear disks when it gets lifted and the gears get changed.

Wonder how they get the wheels to move up and down. If you look while it's in the water they're tucked up into the wheel wells quite far then they move down when it's coming to shore and for driving around.

AW4 is the only auto trans for the 4.0, as far as 231 over 242 it's personal preference over part time or full time 4wd. There seems to be a pretty large aftermarket available for the 231 as far as chain's and sye's and doublers and such, not sure how much is available for the 242. The previous owner of my 97xj swapped in a 242 and I'm going to be hunting down a replacement trans/tcase with a 231 to put in it.

In response to the original post with no sarcasm taken or given, it's likely 2wd because the original trans probably crapped out on them and they pulled a 2wd tranny from a xj in a JY to throw in so it'll run. The maint req light I've cleared on xj's before after the repair was performed by disconnecting + and - from the batt and touching the two leads together draining all residual power from the ecu. This will also reset the performance of the system and likely cause it to run rich till it relearns the driving cycle and sensors to manage the air/fuel ratio correctly. If the light comes back on might look into going to the dealership to have the code read to see if there was another underlying code causing it. As for the headlights they're square and can be installed upside down, whether it was on purpose or accidental from the previous owner is unknown as most front bumpers for xj's/mj's clear the headlight with ease or block very minimal light output. Easiest way is install them correctly and park close to a wall and then slowly backup to see how much/where the light is blocked. This will also allow you to do a basic headlight alignment so they're not blinding oncoming traffic as well.

I don't get the whole point of this post. If the OP already knows the headlights are upside down then turn them around, he already knows he has to replace the TPS so replace it already, he already knows he needs to reset the ecu to turn off the maint required light so replace the O2 sensors and have it done. There are 4wd badges on it because it likely started life as a 4wd then trans problems happened and swapped in a 2wd trans due to availability to get it running again. Seems like all the answers to this post's questions were already answered before even clicking on new topic.

I wired in a 160A from a durango in my old 92 cherokee. When upgrading the alt don't forget to upgrade the power cables as well to handle the higher output.

PM incoming

Doesn't seem to be giving me any fits this morning.

Both bars go on the left bolt I believe. I will try to snap a pic in the morning for ya.

Looks pretty good for what you gave for it. That thing in the headliner is for the crappy factory keyless entry remotes. I'd try draining and refilling the power steering fluid as that might help that, exhaust is probably a cracked manifold, and who needs ac in michigan anyways. Biggest thing I would be concerned with is frame damage from the pass side damage as it got both doors and the rocker.

The fan is probably a 2 speed fan which means 1 is ground 1 is hot for low speed and 1 is hot for high speed.

I find it's easiest to do if the shifter is in the 1-2 range so you're pulling back on it.

If it's going to be a mostly offroad rig you can always get a set of LTB's. They have 34x10.50-15's that would fit without much trouble, ran them on an old xj with 4.5" lift and only rubbed the front at almost full lock.

Been waiting for a reply to an email I sent him about a week ago. Got the reply this morning and also have a set of tailgate letters as well as door stickers on order that will say Cheromanche for the quad cab.

For the long bed model it's part number JP4A and the short bed model it's JP5A. They were designed for the 86 model with carb since it had an external pump.

Go over to naxja and you will see more of them. I've had his coils before and they were pretty good and didn't sag after 3 years and two xjs. The biggest problems he's had in the past was the trac bar breaking and joints wearing out. I believe theres been reports of the bushings in his leafs wearing out prematurely.

Bio did you put in chevy shackles as well? I've been thinking about lifting the mj when I get it done so if I can achieve 5" without going soa that would be awesome.

I don't know he said it's combined with chevy drop shackles so 2" from the springs and 3" from the shackles would give 5" of lift sua. If it was soa then it would be 5-6" plus the 2" from the springs and another 2-3" from the shackles giving close to 12" total. Edit: just found a thread if him talking about the rear shackles and posted a different pic and it's deffinately sua.

Is that spring under still?

Was just looking into these but right now they're listed for $200 each. Is there a coupon code or something I can put in to get the $150 price or would it be best to call and order for that price?

I'm finally finishing mine up this year and I've been working on it for the last 2 years. Wouldn't have taken that long but kept getting sent out of town for business and then generally crappy weather putting a stop to the wrenching. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244164189&postcount=10 There's some to give you some more inspiration.

When you swapped the engine harness did it come with fuses and relays or did you have to swap them over? If it came with fuses and relays have you tried swapping over all your fuses and relays from your old harness into the new one to make sure it's not a blown fuse or bad relay?

Cherokee frame to the middle of the rear doors, and comanche frame to middle of doors is the same. From those points rearward they are different greatly. The problem you will run into and should be ready for is the rockers will not line up and the curvature of the roof is different as well.

Look over on NAXJA and do a search for door hinge repair. There's been several different threads about various ways to fix it once and for all.