dave92cherokee

If you've got a hammer or something like that try smacking the side as it sounds like its seized. Might get lucky enough to get it to start and get home.

Keep the 30 like said it's a good match to the 8.8 for the size tires you'll be limited to. I would look for a 97+ in the jy to get the larger axle shaft ujoints and non cad axles. Put in some cromo axles, ctm joints, and a truss and the 30 will out live the 8.8 likely. With the 30/8.8 combo you're looking at running a max 35" tire before you have to start worrying about breaking alot of stuff. Tires bigger than that and I'd look at going with 1 ton axles from the beginning.

Unfortunately it's like all other parts sites, that one is for a cherokee. Straight from airtex website part number E7072S is for a 91-96 XJ. Just have to hope someone on here comes across a 92 being parted or in a JY and can grab it for me.

That's the main reason I'm going with them, I've heard great reviews about them on the road in dry, wet, and the crappy winter mix we get here in TN. And since this will be a street only not to worried about the off-road performance of them.

I've currently got the original 88 fuel sending unit in the cheromanche and want to get it swapped out with a HO unit. Willing to trade unit's if you've got a HO but need a renix or trade a couple of MJ items + cash.

Trying to find a 2dr xj in the junkyard to use the door out of it. The windows in them are a good bit larger than the windows in a 4dr so will fill up the space better. Then it will have the fixed window in the front of the door. Was thinking of using plexiglass but it scratches so easily so will likely try to find a piece of 1/4" thick lexan to use for the solid window. As for the lift the plan is a spring over and either 33 or 35" duratracs, going off of Alexia's budget lift. I'm aiming for an almost exact replica of my avatar except in desert tan instead of dark blue.

Here's a ad I saw linked to off of NAXJA for a guy selling a 91 mj sportruck shortbed with no engine/trans for $500 and saying if it's not gone before the end of the week it's off to the scrapyard. Hopefully someone around here will get it before it gets crushed. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4222977252.html

The measured wheel base on it is 144" hub center to hub center. Bumper to bumper is 16' so it's got the wheel base close to a full size 4 door.

Yah just went through and updated the thread over here as I've received ALOT more help here than NAXJA. http://comancheclub.com/topic/23573-beginning-of-1993-cheromanche-build/

Here's the first draft of the rear doors. It consists of the back of the MJ door and the front of the XJ door. After welding it together and looking at the position of the windows I decided not to go that route as little more than half of the window would be able to roll down the other front half would be solid in place. Currently looking to find a 2dr being parted out or in a local JY to get the doors from it so there will be a bigger portion of window able to roll down. Here's a couple of pics showing the differences in the rockers and the outer lip. I was initially going to try to line them up but after seeing how much body work it would take to do it decided to go with the 2x6 for simplicity and also added strength. Here's a few pics of it's close current state. I've got the fenders and front doors on as well as the interior and carpet installed inside. Will make a thin plywood panel for the rear wall and carpet it as well. I've got cherokee buckets up front and 00 durango middle row bench seat in the back. Provides seating for 3 or two with flip down console w/ cupholders. Entire inside is covered with fatmat sound deadening to reduce any panel vibrations and unnecessary noise. Here's a rough view of the rockers cut out, I have since ground them down smooth and ready for welding in the box tube, just have to find someone local who's got a welder as I had to sell mine a couple of years ago due to money shortage. View of the frame plating after grinding down, sealing with seam sealer, then spraying with primer to stop rust from forming. View of the custom 2 piece driveshaft and crossmember for the carrier bearing. Got the driveshaft built by AZ drivelines. Couple of pics of the roof after being patched together, sanded down, and primered up. The new straight tailgate and nice straightened out rear bumper. When I got the truck both ends of the bumper were crushed in. Was able to straighten it out then primered and painted it.

Here's a couple of pics of just playing around. Found this pic of the dually online and contemplated it but then realized how hard it would be to find the MJ dually fenders (about as easy as finding a new sending unit). Then a pic just playing around with the leftover pieces from the chop, actually gave ideas for a super short wheel base rig that would probably be shorter than any wrangler. Here's a pic of lining up the roof and side pinch seam. Here's one of the first pictures i took showing the differences in the rockers which ultimately led to me deciding to cut them out and weld in 2x6 box tube. Also shows the first patch I put on the frame rails to tie them together. It's 2x3 steel from lowes with pre-made holes in it that provided plenty of space to put rosette welds. There's one on the inside and outside of each frame rail. Here's the trans hump of the mj cut out getting ready to create the patch panel to reshape the floor board for the rear seat. Here's a few pics showing the damage from the flood and improper maintenance. The first one is the bar that goes above the axle between the shoe's inside the drum. The other two show the inside of the drum and what was remaining of the brakes. After finishing everything inside was replaced even the siezed up e-brake cables. Here's a pic of the floor board in primer, it's cut from a sheet of 18 ga then bent into shape and hammered down. Drilled holes around the edge every inch or so to use for welding it down then put a few stitch welds around the perimeter and ground everything down. Here's the initial rough patch job before grinding anything down for filling in the back of the roof. Here's a couple pics of the second layer of frame rail plating. It's 3x3 1/8" that runs from front control arm mounts all the way back to the front leaf spring mounts. It's got rosette welds on the side and bottom as well as stitch welds around the perimeter.

Here's some pics of the teardown and chopping of the MJ. I know this will hurt some of you but as said it was in the flood and most of the interior was already stripped when I picked it up so it would have needed everything replaced.

Here's some pics of the 88 MJ that I picked up a few years ago after the may 2010 flood. It was sitting near a creek and ended up with water about 3-4 feet up the side. The rear diff was flooded and when i changed the fluid a nice milkshake mix of fluid and water came pouring out.

Been a rough couple of years with all the travel I've been doing for work but when I'm home I make little progress here and there. Right now I'm down to having to get doors created for the rear and the box tube rockers welded in, then a little bondo work and it'll be ready for paint. Going to post all the pic's I've got on photobucket so far for anyone wanting to see all of them. CC has been a far better and more helpful forum than NAXJA as alot of the time posted questions over there seem to go unanswered in local forum if you're not part of the local "click" of guys that hang out.

The fender and door are the same but the rocker extends down further. So when I lined up the pinch seam inside the door frame the comanche rocker was 1" lower than the xj. That's a top view of the rockers which is middle of the mj door and middle of the xj rear door.

Not sure if the taper is the same or not but i know the MJ rockers are about an inch taller than the xj's. I found that out when I was working the quad cab which is why I just the rockers out and going to weld in 2x6 box tube.

Just to try and redeem this thread here's one from NAXJA that looks alot better. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1107297

Was just browsing summit racing looking at oversized gas tanks and there appears to be some 67 gallon tanks that were used in 99+ f250/350. Might want to look at some of the bigger fullsize trucks next time you're at the junkyard to see what ideas might pop up. Most of them are designed to go from cab back along one side so if you gave the mj a simple spring over should provide clearance for a pretty sizable tank.

Not that I know of. The HVAC box has baffles that open and close depending on if you want heat or A/C. With that said, if you're operating the A/C, the heater core is blocked off and air flow is redirected to only blow across the A/C core and vice versa. I'm not sure about the 97+ but i know on the HO models which are the same as the renix, the hvac ductwork behind the dash isn't setup like that. The baffles inside only direct the air to the proper vent. When working on the quad cab i replaced the heater core and a/c and they both sit directly beside each other. So if the heater core has heated coolant running through it then the cold air from the a/c will warm up as it passes through the heater core.

That was my mistake, it's a Purilator. Last changed about 5k miles ago with last oil change. First thing to do is if it's been 5k change the oil, use a proper filter like wix or something that we all know as reliable. If it's been that long it could be simply low on oil or the oil has broken down causing it to not maintain the pressure as well.

Sounds like it's just fine and just burning off the spilled oil off the exhaust manifold. As for the bogging down check the oil level again to make sure it's good, and when you hosed off the old oil you might have gotten some water in a connector or around the distributor or something that just needs to be burnt off or heated up with the engine running to evaporate.

Could always get some adhesive backed foam to put in the areas that are making the noise. That would eliminate the pieces rubbing on one another and quiet it down. Could even work for the steering wheel center cap just pop it off and put it on the inside of the cap.

Helping out this great site with the wealth of info that I've gained in building my quad cab is the least I can do. Hope the payment helps and keeps the great info on this site around for a while.

You could always create a filler piece and make a cup holder there.

If you're needing the sending unit good luck as they're not made anymore and the only way to get one is out of a mj in the junkyard. However the sending unit hardly ever goes bad as it's just bent pipes with a float arm attached to a potentiometer to display the fuel level. The pump is likely what's bad which can be replaced as they're still available from most auto parts stores.