phokur

Thanks for the encouragement. It has been awhile since a tune up. Time to start replacing things! Quick question though, for whoever knows. Are there vacuum lines that would cause it to run like this? Does anybody have a nice diagram of what should go where? A bunch of stuff is dried out under there and seems like it could be my gremlin.

Sorry to be grave digging but since this is the same problem as before I'd like to continue this thread. The O2 sensor seemed to solve the issue for awhile and it ran great for around four months when I drove it. (Not my DD) But on an unfortunate trip to the dump it started its bad habits again. I pulled into the dump and it started lurching and backfiring. When I backed up it finally quit completely. It wouldn't start back up right away but after sitting for around 15 minutes it fired back up. To get home I had to keep the RPMs high to keep it from stalling. It seemed to run fine when cruising at a relatively high rpm but to accelerate it spit and backfired like crazy. My first thought was bad gas to I drained the tank and filled it with 91 octane and dumped in some stabil just to be sure. Same issue. To recap, truck runs great when it first starts. But when it warms up it starts to run horribly and almost sounds like it is missing. It backfires and sputters and when it accelerates it lurches wildly. I have to park it for hours, then it will run fine again for another 15 minutes. Help :hmm:

Finally got the O2 sensor in it, it solved it! Thanks a million! :clapping:

I'll check it out tomorrow, thanks again!

Thanks for the reply! That's something I haven't considered. I have an 89 4.0 I6. Is there any way to test the O2 theory without having to buy one first? Thanks!

Hi all, When my Comanche cold starts it runs fine. It will run well until I shut it off. When I try to restart it runs really rough, almost like it is missing. The truck lurches at low rpms and almost stalls unless I give it some throttle. Keeping the truck at higher rpms is the only way I am able to get it home. Once it cools off it starts right up and runs fine again. I also noticed if I am WOT and the engine is straining, I can get a miss and the truck lurches. Not consistently enough to be a symptom though. My thought is fuel filter but I want to confirm this before I go tearing into the lines. Any ideas? Thanks!

You guys are awesome! Thanks! Looking into it. I live in Maryland, I would love to buy one if shipping isn't horrendous. Let me know what you want shipped to 20685. Thanks, I may go with that one if I can't get a factory. Or that one, thanks. Why do you think this is a lie? There are some aftermarket rear sliders available that will (sort of) fit a Comanche if you replace the entire window, but the glass for the actual factory slider hasn't been available for years. Well, I should be more specific. They told me my truck never came with sliders and I have seen them on the road and online. Didn't think that they might only discontinue the slider and leave the solid but I guess that is what happened.

Well, being an idiot I shattered my rear window. I have a solid but would really like a slider glass. The glass place says they do not make the slider glass for the Comanche which I know is a lie. Where should I try to get it?

That's some great info, thanks!

Thanks for the info! Does the Crysler 8.25 need to have the perches re-welded?

After a weekend of wheeling, my D35C is no more. From reading on here and google it seems my two best options are a D44 or a Ford 8.8. A few unanswered questions: If I get the 8.8, what do I do with the lever attached to the 35 that tells how much braking to give it? Don't I need some sort of calibrator for converting to disc rears, wouldn't it just be worth finding a drum 8.8? I know I have to reweld the perches, not a problem. But does this have any real benefit that a D44 doesn't have? D44 is just drop in (with the right gear ratio), correct?

Fixed, was actually two issues. I had no 4x4 because the vacuum lines slipped off of the front diff. The noise was caused by a broken exhaust clamp making the exhaust vibrate against my transfer case crossover.

Thanks for the tip! I will get it up on the lift when I get access. A related question, when my front wheels spin, should my front driveshaft be spinning or does the front differential disengage them?

Started snowing here so went to throw into 4wd today, no go. High and low both only engage the rear. This mean new transfer case?

Hi all, I have been under the truck twice and even had a tech look at it with no idea where the noise is coming from. It started when I was full throttle in left-hand turns, I got a rotational grinding noise from somewhere under my feet. It has progressively gotten worse as now whenever I release the clutch or give full throttle it grinds. Neutral/clutch engagement stops the noise completely. I have checked to make sure everything is tight, greased, and nothing is rubbing (no clean metal under the truck). Anybody else encounter this? Update: After reading more around, I'll clarify some more. I get this noise, while under gas, in all gears at any speed. I get it primarily at starts or when I just mash the gas. Hitting a bump also gives me the noise. Hope that helps!