BeatCJ

ghetdjc320 is right, most of your cost is in the fittings for the ends. I had the rear shaft for my CJ lengthened (tube cut out and replaced) for just over $100. Find a JY shaft and have that one adjusted to fit for about half of that.

I was impressed, actually.

Sorry @Pete M Google shows it as an '88.

I was passing in a line of cars.

My 3 panel slider needs all new seals, too. I think will order the channel, and call the best glass place in town, see if they know of a good rubber seal.

They charged extra for the full size spare, I would assume they made money on selling a 5th alloy, too.

FWIW, it's a lot easier (and less expensive, even with good paint) to have it repainted the OEM Color.

@eaglescout526 Would you please put the original dealer info in the build sheet post? Thanks in advance.

@rylee144Where are those, I wasn't able to find them?

Private Group, can't see it.

I don't know the model, on the door to the cassette player, it says Pioneer Supertuner III

I suspect you have so much work with Jeep Radios you don't have time, but my Pioneer Supertuner could use some work. The volume control has some bad spots, as do the balance and fader controls. Turn them and they make static while you are touching them, they have spots where one or the other door speaker works. Any suggestions?

Why is a test light preferred? I used a multimeter, and got the results I needed. On the other hand, I was pretty sure my fuel pump was bad, and was just seeking confirmation before I bought a replacement and dropped the tank.

Finally a little here. I doubt we'll have any accumulation.

After measuring, scratching my head, measuring and puzzling, they fit on my intended axles after all. I don't know what the issue was at the tire store. Until I rebuild the front axle and get it installed, it won't really matter. I suspect I may have been creating my own problems. I plan on getting to bearings, seals, brakes and u joints in a couple of weeks. Probably should go through the rear end, too.

Thanks for the follow up.

Last visited January 18, 2016

I'll bet it never gets #2.

"Guess who gets to clean the yard?"

FWIW, you don't give us much to work with. What do you have, what are your desires? What is your stock engine? Building up the stock 4.0 is probably the easiest and cheapest way to make power. Depends on how much work you want to do and how much power you want, and what you are starting from. A GM based swap is probably the easiest way to make bigger power,but it does take some knowhow and effort. There a several good build threads here on the board, thecodemonks Rocky, limeyjeeper, 70barracuda's Driving on the street to Street Truck pop to the front of my brain. Look in the Epic Builds section. Probably a dozen of them, if you look a little.

Needs more photos, but my impression is that this is probably a pristine example of a desert SW Truck.

Probably best to have this moved to the right place, to get more eyes. I suspect if you get more than 10 posts and get access to the classifieds, you will have better luck. Of course, Cherokee sites will probably have more.opportunity, too.

Good luck on each. No reason not to work on all. As a traced descendent of John Locke, I think the last is a wonderful idea.

Congratulations. An incredible amount of work went into that. I went to school with a guy that has published quite a few novels. He started with one, and went on from there. Do you have plans for more?

Yes it will. It's possible that if you have a problem you may need to cycle it a few times. How are you applying heat? On some things, it may be necessary to use higher heat, maybe as much as oxy-fuel, instead of a straight propane torch. I would guess you have a bi-metallic corrosion issue, that there was no sealant used on the threads, and that's causing your issue. Is your problem with the current fitting, or the OEM unit you want to use?