BeatCJ

I can't tell you if Cummins93 and KSuspension are the same place. I have purchased from K Suspension, the product I purchased was well made, their customer service was pretty good and the price was reasonable. I did replace my original injectors with some 4 hole injectors from Ebay. It worked out OK, but I need another set for my son's Cherokee, so I have private messaged @Cummins93. I will feel better about spending my money that a member that is well thought of here has vouched for. I had some fuel leaks from my injectors, I am pretty sure my truck sat for several years with a dead fuel pump. I had gotten it running. Replacing the original injectors did give me a smoother idle, and anecdotally, I think it may have improved power. I had not checked fuel mileage, but I wouldn't be surprised that in a like driving situation, that would improve, too.

The centerbore of the wheel, is my thought. I can get a pic tonight, can't get away from the office today. Since the wheels fit on my rear axle, I wonder if a Liberty unit bearing would work on the D30? Is the 2002 to 2004 Libby IFS? Still, that part COULD interchange with a solid axle.

My fire habits will be different than yours, my woodstove is in my living room, I have a very open Livingroom, dining area/kitchen. But, assuming I'm starting from cold, I put in two wedge shaped splits in the bottom. I put one good handful of pencil split kindling at the base of the valley. Then another of larger, finger or thumb sized splits on that. Then a couple of bigger pieces on top of that. Then I fire up a propane torch, and use that to light my fire. If I set it up so the torch flames shoot out the back, the heat column goes right up my flue, and it builds a good draw pretty quickly. I used to use newspaper as my starter, about 6 sheets twisted to sticks. Getting the air to fuel density is more important with the paper. Since my stove heats my whole upstairs, I usually stoke it up at night, and damp it down so it's still going in the morning. Then it's raking coals and feeding it. Of course, my heat pump is set at 60, and the stove is keeping my granddaughters warm. My bedroom door is closed, with the window open and a fan pulling outside air in.

So, after Extensive use of my GoogleFu, it looks like the 2002 to 2004 Liberty that these wheels were available on used a 67 mm centerbore, as opposed to the Comanche 71.5 mm centerbore. Seems almost AMC like in practice. FWIW, it also appears design offset was different than what the wheels are, so I have that going for me. 4 mm isn't much, and I bet I could accept reaming that out. They would probably work fine stud piloted...

Are yours the XJ version, or the Liberty version? My digital caliper died, so I can't check centerbores on the wheels. I am going to bet the wheels I have are smaller than standard Comanche/Cherokee wheels.

They are 16x7, 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. They fit over the wheel studs, but don't seat all the way on the wheel mounting surface on my Comanche or on my XJ Dana 30. The rear axle is is from a 2003 4 cylinder disc brake Liberty. The wheels DO mount up correctly on the Liberty axle. The front axle is from an early 4 cylinder XJ.

I was looking at poor photos on my phone, it looked textured. Horrible paint job was what I saw, just guessed.

According to the Members Map, looks like @coolwind57 and @Big Dan may be close. My thought is the body is far rougher than the photos indicate, and i would be suspicious of the engine, looks like the radiator may have erupted, so it probably overheated and died. it's probably not really worth much more than scrap value.

Don't worry, it happens to all of us. I can remember it happening to my grandfather, too.

On a vehicle this old, I don't think a salvage title matters too much. For me, the 46 hour round trip is a much bigger deal. And the Bedliner paint. Yuck.

Mine does.

I like the lunette dangling from the pintle hitch.

I contacted the guy, if he still has it I will pick it and the brackets up Saturday. And can't get away from work this week, covering for COVID quarantiners.

is that a good deal? I'm looking and it looks kinked, twisted and some powder coat chipped. If it's worthwhile, I can look into getting it. It's nowhere near as nice as the one on mine.

No power to it when and where? You only get power for 2-3 seconds while priming and while cranking. Have you checked the ballast resistor on the driver side fender?

When I started work here, we had 3 Korean War vintage US Army surplus 2 1/2 ton rigs repurposed as water tenders. 2000 gallon tanks. Way overloaded. 2000 x 8.34 lbs per gallon. Almost 17,000 lbs of water, plus the weight of the steel tank, a pump, some hose. The on road payload was rated at 10,000 lbs maximum. The brakes on those trucks were just barely up to the task. When they ran, pretty much unstoppable. I remember one January house fire, freezing rain on top of compact snow where one of our guys started the tender, and the passenger side front brake was seized. He drove to the fire with that tire sliding all of the way. He said it was steering funny, he just figured something was out of adjustment...

sounds like Guam is pretty relaxed on that. I have been pulled over, too. I would use a pair of the LED bolts, they are simple to use and wire.

I posted in my build thread, but I haven't seen many comments. I got a set of 16x7 Icons from what I was told was a 2000 Cherokee. I was looking for the liberty renegade dark colored wheels, but I had 2 Craigslist sets sold before I could get there, so I figured buy what I could and deal with the color later. I ended up needing to drive my truck, so I went to get a set of tires to replace the dry-rotted 225/75R15 Michelins on it. When the tire shop test fit the wheels, the center bore wouldn't fit on my OEM axles. Is there a difference between the late Cherokee/Liberty/early Dana 30/35 hub? I test fit the wheels on the axles I intend to use, they fit on my 4.10 Liberty 8.25, but not on my 4.10 CAD Dana 30. Can I use a KJ unit bearing? I like the wheels, and I believe they will allow me to do a tie rod flip eventually. Any thoughts?

And other than the Cobra, not out of my reach.

Why was it out of level?

Hmmmm. 289 AC Cobra '67 Camaro 4 speed Modern crew cab 4wd 6' bed SRW 1 ton diesel pickup, probably a GMC 1986 CJ-8 4.6 Stroker, AX-15, waggy axles Mid 80's Suburban, LS drive train swap, 3 row seating My Comanche, finished, and redone to fix my poor choices My CJ-10a finished

Possibly. It's really hard to tell at this point. Locate your drive train based.on optimum location for the engine, drive lines are cheap to shorten or re-tube.

That would work.

I think if that had nutserts, or nuts welded to the back side of the pin holes, I would feel more secure. Great idea, though. How high off the ground is your hitch?