75sv1

I'd also look at upgrading the brake booster. Some have gone to the WJ's. Its in my plans. It will also go into my MJ. Even the latter XJ brakes are marginal with 31"s. Also, you might look at upgrading the steering shock. Mine's OK with a NAPA replacement, but probably needs a bit more help. I am going to open the taper for the ball joints and keep mine under for the tie rod. Also, I you do this, you might need bigger rims. I nabbed a set of late XJ or TJ 16" rims. With 33s you probably will have after market.

I'm OK at 31" with stock. The brakes are OK on a 98 XJ. You might also look at upgrading your brakes. While on that look at the WJ brake upgrade. Then look at steering upgrades for that. I went with the Chevy type from Iron Rock. Haven't installed it yet.

Hose is the heater hose. It lets hot/warm air heated from the exhaust to warm up air on cold days for emissions. The oil in the air filter is usually referred to as "blow-by'. It isn't technically 'blow-by', as in combustion getting by the piston rings. I have found it can be a poor seal of the valve cover gasket. I 'upgraded' to an HO valve cover. I'd also look at Cruiser's Tips. A member here. He'll probably chime in. Another solution is to do away with the lines from the front of the valve cover to the airbox. Then install one of the "hot Rod' style valve cover breathers. You could do this also if you go to a 'Cold Air' intake. Not sure if the add much HP or just lighten your wallet. Also, as to the 'Blow-By' you can 'update' to the bigger rear breather tube. Late XJs 2000-2001. I did have a '95 valve cover on mine. The '93-96 Grand Cherokee had the newer grommet CCV system. I have two of them and plan to install one on my XJ and the other on the MJ. Also, there is an upgraded valve cover seal from FELPRO. It about $40, though. I bought mine at NAPA. Its a rubber or silicone gasket.

My view on Rusty's products is to include in their shipping cost. Their product price + shipping cost might be near the higher product price and lower shipping cost of others.

I am going to try to keep the '88 header panel, but use the '97+ fenders. There are attachment issues. In my case, I'll have to fab some 'L' or 'Z' brackets, upper right and left of the headlamps. Those two bolts/attachment screws go through and into the engine bay. The lower ones do not match, (if I remember correctly), but I think I can redrill the fiberglass. Not the same as what you are trying to do, but similar or reverse. I'd probably swap on the newer fenders in your case and newer bumper or upgraded bumper.

First you might look at the 'THOR' intake conversion. As to the oil in the air filter, look ay 'Blow-By' threads. Basically, you have in imbalance of air pressures between the airbox and the valve cover. A simple fix might be to take out the hose going from the valve cover to the air filter. Get one of the valve cover filter, they sell at Auto parts stores. What I have found, is you have a leak at the valve cover gasket and or the CCV lines need replaced. I did 'Update' my Renix to a '95 valve cover and no oil in the Airbox. Updated the CCV lines. Had to splice the rear line together. Also, the 93-95 Grand Cherokees have a cast aluminum valve cover that has the latter style grommets. They do show up on Cherokes from time to time. I am putting one on my '98 XY and my '88 MJ.

I made up sets for my two XJs. I bought one of the cheap crimper for $60. It actually works good. There is a review on line. The negative is you have to guess what die set to use. I found out, that you need to go to the one that just barely crimps, then the next size down. I used welding cable on one set, and marine grade. I liked the marine cables, tinned. Also, check Car Audio stores.

As mentioned the late XJ and TJ hubs space things about right. Also, look at 07-08 Dodge Nitro rotors. About 1/16 or so less on diameter than the WJ rotors. I haven't installed my stuff yet. Also, someone did a Dakota /Mustang on the early XJ/MJ spindles on one of the Jeep Forums.

On my '98 XJ, you have to slip it forward or back. I think forward. I think there are two large headed studs that it is slotted to. Hope that makes sense. I plan of doing this to my MJ. If not factory, someone did a VG job.

I bought one from NAPA years ago. Mine is heald on by Velcro. I did buy the cross bar supports. I want to say $150 or so.

There is a Spicer list of driveshaft and lengths. You would need to measure from the center of the u-joint on the axel to the end of the shaft of the trans or transfer case (if 4wd). Subtract about 3/4 to 1 inch for the yoke adapter that will go one the TC shaft (or trans). Then measure back to 1-1/8 of splines on the transfer case. This is the range of length you can adapt to. The drive shaft will be noted as extended length. I think the front for an XJ is about 32". Subtract 1" from this. This is so, while the shaft needs to slide in and out. Hope this helps. A lot of this varies as to lift and rear end axle type.

I think I have a few sets, if nothing works out for you. $200 is way to much. I'll start to pull them at the PnPs again. They went up in price, at least at one I go to. I thing $40 each. I think I was paying $12.

The only real difference between a RENIX and HO header is the bung or boss for the EGR system. If not in Cali, or other CARB state, then ???. Also, check Clifford and possibly Borla or Banks. On the Clifford, I think you have to drill through one wall or the tubing, to 'activate' the EGR system. I think most of the after market headers are more durable than the OEM. I think most of the power comes from the 'better' down pipe. I did have a Pace Setter. It was with their Amour Coat. Some of the edges had a bit of rust, but otherwise very good. Probably should have kept it.

I am doing the WJ brake on an XJ. You year would be the same. Someone has done an upgrade with the older AMC knuckles, and no weld. I have the parts, just no time, and need the XJ running now. I did weld on the spacers (1/4). Also, bought some WJ lower ball joints. The XJ/ZJ ones are a loose fit. I think the stock steering would work. The WJ knuckle, passenger side, has an extra arm. I did look into modifying the WJ steering. It was cheaper to get a RuffStuff upgrade kit. Also, I've read that the WJ setup will crack with heavy off road use. The Ruff Stuff is way over built. It uses Chevy ends. You will either need to get the Chevy reamer or the inserts. I am going under the knuckle instead of OTK. I do have 4.5 lift. The are Chevy type kits, that are a 'Y' type, also. Also, you will need the '00-01 XJ or Wrangler hub bearings. I did buy '07-08 Nitro Front rotors. No drill, no turning. By my measurements direct fit, about a 1/16 less radius. Still, I haven't completed this yet. Need to get my Contour running first. Also, the steering dampner. I plan to use the stock location on the axel, and use a Chevy 'type clamp on the steering tubes. Another thing is the track bar. I will try the stock layout. Iron Rock makes a bracket that goes on top of the axle. I might go that route sometime.

I had my battle with an 98 last year. I did use after market solenoids. They did work, but I didn't run the vehicle that long. Sold it a few months latter. My problem was one of the speed sensors, the out put one. Not fun to change. The latter AW4 , aqua colored solenoids are suppose to be the best. There are a lot of sensors in the 'loop'. Don't know which one or all of them that would effect the OD. Since intermittent, unplugging the TCU, might not show if its the trans or the electrical components. Even the brake light switch has some input on the trans function. Also the TBS. Might check both of those. Also, adjust the trans cable. Easy to do.

Both is perplexing. I would check the hoses. They can delaminate, and act as a one way valve. I haven't had it happen to me knowingly. I have been 'involved' where that was the problem. A neighbor worked on the vehicle and that was it. I did have a front caliper lock up last year, Ford Contour. Not sure on that one. Replaced a lot of parts. One of my XJs was the divots. I put on new pads, and it shifted the pads out of the divot. I made the new owner aware of this.

Just don't smash the crush sleeve any tighter when you torque the pinion nut and it will be fine. Normally the crush sleeve needs a fairly ridiculous amount of torque to crush, so you can put locktite on the threads and torque the nut to a 'safe' number, stake it, and it won't change a thing. You can also put a witness mark between the nut and pinion before you take it apart, thus you can see if you're going to tighten it too much. I think you mark the nut and flange. Count the rotations to take the nut off. Then assemble the nut with the counted rotations (turns). Then about a 1/16 turn more. The correct way is you need an inch-lb torque meter. If assembled, then rotate the nut with the torque meter (dial type). Get that reading. Need to torque the nut when reassembled to that torque value. Can use a new nut and sleeve. At least that is what I am told.

IP89 brings up a good point. OCI is dependent also on the condition of the engine. I have run 12K + on a Ford Contour with the 2.0 ZETEC. That engine didn't use a drop of oil at 200K+ miles. I was mainly doing 8K OCI on it from about 20K on the Odo when I got it. I ran synthetics all or almost all that time. Also, a few different brands, Castrol Syntec (not the Euro), Shaffer for a change, Mobil 1 for a change and Pennsoil Platinum. I ran to thick of Mobil 1 for that engine. I'll have to see about the STP for the ZPPD.

I used to use shell Rotella 15-45, then 10W-30. Both worked good, with a NAPA Gold filter. Same as a WIX. I now use the T6 Rotella 5-40, with a NAPA Platinum. I'd run synthetics 8K to 10K or for a year. I wouldn't worry about the temps. I have switched in other vehicles between conventional and synthetics and different brands on synthetics with no seen effects. Some like the European formula Castrol Syntech. I have not tried it. Autozone sells it.

Check out the '07-08 Dodge Nitro rotors. I bought a pair to do the upgrade on my '98 XJ. A lot of other things getting in the way. Also, someone did a larger brake upgrade with Dodge Dakota and possibly Ford Mustang parts. I think it favored they earlier XJ/MJ bearings. As far as the unit bearings, you could use whatever you want on a 2wd. On a 4wd, I think the '00-up bearings are the only ones to use as for spacing and the axel shaft centering. I bought a set off of Rock Auto, Timkens.

Ugh! I have new respect for the Libby, Compass etc. already. Not sure about the Aztek.

I have 31s on 4.5 lift. Plenty of clearance. Looks a bit small, and I don't like the stuffed tire look. sorry no pics. I haven't regeared yet. I do have 4:10's planned and have the axel and front gears. Does OK with stock tires on the road. I am also going to 16" rims and one of the metric tires that would be about 31.5.

As Rock Frog said. Also, the water pump has a different bolt pattern. I was a hurdle to cross, as I think it spins the other way. The oil filter boss is in the same location. The oil pressure sending unit boss is relocated to the back of the passenger's side of the block. Also, watch out swapping earlier heads on these blocks, as they are not drilled and tapped for the idler pulley that goes there for the WJs belt layout. Might need to check the Wranglers and see if it has that or not. The NV3550 swaps basically direct. You need its clutch slave or hydraulics setup. Advance Adapters used to sell a kit, that used a Modified Toyota Land Cruiser clutch cylinder. I didn't see it listed of late. The transfer case is a bit different, but usable. I think it has a balncing ring or something. I sold a guy a TC from a '93 or such. His mechanic wouldn't use it, so I took it back or paid the cash as I bought some Caynon rims and 31" tires.

I did a search on Car-PartsInc.com. The cross reference to the WJ Grand Cherokee. Short answer : 'No.'. Long answer possibly, I am swapping one in mine. Also, the NV3550 trans that should be what you are looking at. The motor mount bosses are different on each side. I added a spacer on one side. The other I had the motor mount bracket cut and rewelded. I might look into a Brown Dog motor mount latter. The other aspect is the Accesory drive setup. The holes are not drilled and tapped for the XJ/MJ setup. I was going to drill and tap them. I am changing plans and going to try and use the WJ setup. That does leave it without a clutch fan. I am thinking of putting in the Ford Taurus fan swap. I can only think of one other that has done this swap. He cut down the drivers side motor mount boss, and drilled and tapped the holes. So, a lot of work.

Thought I add to this. I had my compressor seize up Saturday. Fortunately it was in the driveway and not on the road. It was giving me signs most of the day. The motor would run, but the belt didn't move. The compressor was locked up. I took of the AC clutch. The bearing was shot. Looked like more than a few ball bearings were missing. I did a search on the net and Ebay. I could only find the AC clutch rebuild kits on Ebay. All the parts stores didn't list them. I bought a bearing off of EBay. Then I saw Auto Zone had the bearing. $22 or so. I couldn't press out the bearing, so I turned it out with my lathe. I pressed in the bearing. When assembled, the coil pack binded on the belt pulley. I turned the end shorter 0.020 or so. I finally got it together. Still, have to assemble back the other stuff. Need to get a new belt.