75sv1

Basically, what Eagle wrote. Rotella does make a 10W-30 oil. I have used it in my XJs and my MB240D (colder temps). I am running Rotella 5W-40 T6. I do not see a pressing need to run synthetic in this engine though. Also, convention oils have come a long way from when this engine was designed.

I think that the AX-15 cross mount from '92?? is different than the auto mount. At least from say a later '98. I was swapping between an '88 Renix BA10/5 mount and one I got with a AX-15 from I think a '92. It had the internal slave cylinder. I'll have to see if the latter '01 cross member are different between the auto and the NV3550, or if it is just a mount part difference. Edit: Did some searching. Found a listing or parts manual for the '01 Cherokee. The '01 have the NV3550. From what I could see, there is a difference between both the mount and the cross member. THe manual number listed were 52058 883AB for the mount and 52003 929AD for the cross member.

I did look at Rock Auto. The PN for the 01 manual trans mount was different than for the '98. I didn't see if there was a difference for the 01 cross member. Or if there was one for the auto vs manual in '01.

I am sort of in the same boat. I put a NV3550 in my '88 Comanche. I need to look into the '01 XJ with the NV3550. Yes, my trans is stuffed up against the trans tunnel.

Hey, there's an MJ behind those lights.

I don't, but are they the same as what was on the '80's Mustang? I think they are Marchal's, too. Looks good. Didn't splurge for a set for the headlights? OK, those require a bank loan.

I'd check the gear box. Try adjusting it. I did have to replace the bushing in a Rusty's Track bar. It did help.

I've had a vehicle in a body shop for almost 4 yrs now. It sat out side for 1.5 yrs. I did see it yesterday. I even talk to a few lawyers. Things can go bad. I did take it to another shop, but couldn't justify the $5K at that time. I was quoted $2.8K from the one shop. Check to see if your state has an 'Automotive Repair Act'. Or other laws. Definitely, do not walk out of there without a contract as to the work to be done. Might state time frame too. As for prices, yes it can go way up depending on the quality. I think the first shop was talking about $8K or more for really nice. Mine included some body work. I think a bit more than expected. A good paint, no body work would have been $3K. Might see if there are any vo-tech or other schools that do Automotive body work. One of my brothers business partners has a son who runs one in another state. My Comanche might make it there, if I get back on it.

I used the Zip ties, but would prefer the bracket. I have a tube fin one. It was something I picked up at a garage sale. It was for a Ford Ranger. I do have the DPG 2 row or is it 3-row. It is a brass radiator. I have heard of a few who run two trans coolers. If I did a lot of towing, I would consider this.

I'd list your options. Did you miss something? Don't know. Also, might look at ZEREX Z05 coolant. Mix it on the heavy side. Possibly a ceramic header, to keep the heat out of the engine bay. What radiator do you have? Do you also have an oil cooler? I haven't gone that route yet. I don't tow 3500 lbs either. Some used to use LeBaron hood vents. What speeds were you running? A constant speed? Or varied?

I can't remember what my '88 MJ has at the cat. My '98 XJ is a slip fit.

I should also add that the 'dent' can cost you power. The Walker might not have the dent. I think Omix or one of the others might not either. Might be stainless, but a lot more money. Let us know how the Banks Revolver works out. Almost went that route. The Thorley is ceramic coated, that was a deciding factor for me.

That dent is stock. You might look at Walker or other replacement down pipes. Then again, I do not know if the Banks requires a 'custom' down pipe. I just put on a Doug Thorley. You can weld on their adapter or have custom down pipe made up. I cobbled something to get mine running. I still plan or need to have a custom one made. I was quoted $200.

No, they had a HUGE problem in the rust belt with the two-piece rotors self-destructing. They finally went back to a one-pieve design, and I believe the change was made in mid-year of the 1999 model run. That would explain why there are two part numbers. If so, look at the height difference between the two bearing hubs. It should be obvious. I think about 1/4 inch.

OP, this is correct info. It should be if you have a Hi-pinion or low pinion front axel. I think they changed in '00. If you keep the rotors from the same years and hub bearing units, they will stack up correctly. The calipers are the same. I did put in a low pinion 30 in a '98. Used the '98 bearings and rotors.

If you found the fitting type that the connection goes into, and then that in female, with a pipe thread on the other end. Then tap the broken area for that pipe thread. So it should be a threaded O-ring port with a pipe thread on the male end. Edit: so Female Straight Thread O-ring fitting (measure size of present thread) to a Pipe Thread (that would near fit inside the present hole. Also, put grease on the tap to hold the chips to it. So, they don't get inside the trans. I had a model airplane engine head done this way for its muffler. Think I've seen it done elsewhere.

Could be the grill is in the natural 'Jeep' position. The rest of it ain't. As to oil leaks, start with the valve cover. I used the rubber Felpro gasket, the $30-$50 one. Or use the good RTV. The cork ones don't seem to hold up. Next, would be the Oil Filter housing. Again get the FelPro kit. Although the 'bolt' orings seemed wrong size. Then the Oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Helps to install a 4.5" lift. Then the oil pan slides right out. Also, the front timing cover might be before the Oil pan.

Not sure of the exact problem. Could be TPS, Speed sensor or even other. I did have a Speed sensor go out on a '98. The rear one. The earlier ones only have one, I think. Yes, I snapped that bolt off. It was in there good. Then an easy out snapped off. I drilled around it all. Then J-B welded in an insert. That was after solenoid being replaced, shift kit and probably other stuff. You can check the speed sensor. I think you need to use an analog volt meter though. I didn't have luck with a digital. NSS and Brake Light switch are also in the circuit.

I just put in a 93-98 ZJ valve cover on my '98 XJ. It has the latter PVC type CCV fittings. I did put on a '95 XJ valve cover on my MJ. I did have to extend the rear CCV line. I think I upgraded to the latter and larger rear CCV line. Also, look at FelPro. They have a gasket that is much better than the cork ones. Its expensive at $35-$50.

My '88 had only the one mirror. It was rinky dink too. I remember a plastic base, but screwed into the door sheet metal somewhere. I think two screws. I might have that mirror somewhere.

Might also look into slider shackles. Suppose to be 'almost' like a 4-link rear. I think they add 1/2-1 inch of lift. I was curious about them. I need or want to 'de-lift' a bit in the rear. So, I put that idea or plan on hold. Then again I don't know if there is one specific for the MJ.

There is the Transgo shift kits. I installed one on an XJ. It was the basic kit. The Trans or vehicle had some other issues. It ran OK, but can't say it did or did not do anything. I do have the HD kit, but haven't installed it. There are rebuild kit option. Basically Raybestos yellow band and Raybestos Blue band. Also, there are manual override shift kits or electronic toggle switches. There is a write up on one of the Jeep board with Toyota parts for an upgrade. Not sure on pans, there probably is one. Best thing is to put a trans cooler on.

I looked at the rebuild kits. There are ones for about $250 and some for $450 ish. I did look into have mine rebuilt. It was $950 with a rebuilt torque converter. That was with the trans out of the vehicle. Probably no different than any other trans. You can do a web search. There are a few rebuild threads and such.

Might look at Car-Parts.com. Has listing nation wide. I did a search. Look for B&T Auto Part in Sparta NC. 208K and $200. Still, do a South East or other search. Might find one you like better.

If its any help, the bolt location are the same as an XJ/MJ. The one of the ones on the driver's side is 0.900 or so longer, than on an XJ. The passenger side one of them is 0.900 shorter than an XJ. So, you could cut down the one on the driver's side and drill and tap. I made a spacer for the passenger side. I might look at what or if Brown Dog could make something semi custom. It is a fabbed plate part.