75sv1

Last time I tried to sell taillights, I think the guy wanted NOS for $50 a pair. I have some. Not NOS.

I could see you as a designer or prototype parts. Don't know if your present employer has that type of position. I would think you would need some Drafting (CAD type too), and possibly machining.

'.only for some cash buyer to swoop in and outbid me' Preapproved loan? Also, did you get any analysis as to what $/month your budget would be?

The 1966 version, I'd give them the Thumbs up. But I don't see any of them.

http://www.nwjeepn.com/SteeringGear.html I do not know how accurate the info is. I did search a bit before I grabbed a gearbox at the PnP. If you have any info otherwise, please post. Edit: I did read another post on this box. Some info has it as just a different ratio. ??? I do see some rebuilders adding in ports to them.

The Dakota box is a bit wider. You would need an aftermarket steering box plate. The snow plow version has a side port for the hydraulic ram to angle the snow plow. I think some use it to add hydraulic steering. I think around 98-00. There are some internal mods to get better lock to lock steering. Stock I believe you will lose turn radius. I did nab one and rebuilt it. As Minuit said, you do need to adjust with an in-lb torque wrench.

Also, there is a break in or install procedure. It might be from the FSM. Jack up the front axle, both wheels off the ground. With the engine running and PS fluid at full, with the steering wheel turn right and left close to lock to lock 3-5 times. Check fluid and fill. Repeat. Then lower front axle. With wheels on the ground, repeat. At least that is what I remember. I replaced one of my XJs about 2 years ago.

Thanks for the info. I planned to rebuild and upgrade a 2001 XJ harness. Wanted to put thicker wires in. This will help.

You need an Inch-LB torque wrench for some load settings on the gear box. Also, there is the large sheet metal nut to torque. I think the dial torque wrench is needed.

I'd also look at the P/S lines. I think the one that screws into the P/S pump has an oring.

mines 4.5" lift. And no I do not recommend driving without a track attached. Its basically, Russian Roulette. It was a Sunday and I was far from home. I did get to an exit and had it welded back on. That lasted and hour or so of driving. When they brake off, it gets interesting. I did roughly 20-30 mph down the side of the road. In some spots it was more like 10 mph. I parked it a week to get it welded back on. It actually, did well in the 15 mile drive. I took back roads as best I could. I think mine was a few items. First was a lose TRE. Taper was to big. Chevy 1-ton. The next is the frame was cracked a bit back from the gear box. Edit: I forgot to add that the upper control arms had the holes wallowed out. They were old style Rust's, and used. 1/16 sheet metal. I replaced upper and lower with JKS. I bought some CORE uppers to replace the Rusty's upper as I have a few other XJs to build. Also, my Trac bar is a Rusty's OTK. I do not see anything wrong with it. I did buy an OTK Ironman 4X4 tracbar, etc. See how that goes.

I rebuilt a WJ power steering pump, for a '98 XJ. NAPA has rebuild kits. The gearbox, I used a rebuilt unit from Advanced, as I needed the vehicle running. I did rebuild a Dakota box. Haven't installed it yet.

I've driven with the track bar detached. On smooth roads it was like a rudder on a boat. I could do 55 mph. If I hit a pot hole or something, not good. Long story on that trip.

I basically, did what the last two posters did. I have about 5 older cars. I put some money into them the past few years. It didn't work out well. One was my '98 XJ. So last summer I bought a used 2015 Volt with 33K on it for roughly $15. It has been reliable. Get around 40 mpg on the highway. I do run on electric back and forth to work. I did get my '81 MB 240D back on the road this past summer. Still. its getting cold, so the Volts has been the daily, this week. I did pick up two more XJs. One was to transfer the parts from my '98. Now, the other one is. Someday, I'll get back to the XJ. I will note, you will need to figure out what is possibly with your finances. So, that includes insurance, tags-n- title etc. But something that gets 35+ mpg does help. Still, I need the XJ (or MJ) to pack and transport stuff.

With the old one, I'd change fluid a few times. Use DextronII. If that doesn't work or improve it, I'd unplug the TCU (trans computer). See if reverse works then. If it does, then its electronics. Then you could try swapping in a valve body. If I was to swap in a used AW4, both input and output seals. I'd probably replace the solenoid valves from an 00-up AW4. They are blue green, instead of brown. I have done the TransGo shift kits. I can't say the basic one did anything noticeable. I do have the HD one in an XJ. A bit firmer shifts. I'd probably drop the pan and see if there is any black sludge in the pan. IE band wear. A '98 XJ with roughly 130K had some in the pan. Then next '98 with 220K had near none. That trans did leak, so I had an '01 rebuilt and put in. That one got the TransGo HD shift kit. I have an '00 XJ with 260K. I saw minimal band sludge when I dropped the pan, and replaced the filter screen. Also, clean the two magnets.

Looks like a Vector on stilts. Someways I like it, other not. Maybe the doors came from a Bricklin? Or a Bradley? Does look sort of like something out of a 70's SciFi movie.

The 00-01 XJs had R16 rims. They came in silver and a gunmetal gray. They are called Icons. I bought a set for the WJ Big Brake upgrade.

The 4:10 C8.25 can be found in 4 cyl XJs. Yeah, 3K RPM would be a bit much. 2,800 RPM would be a bit much for me, too.

Would 4.10 ratio do you? There are some 8.25s with that gearing for XJs. Then swap on KJ rear brakes.

I had to do spacers so I could keep the rear sway bar. I did run without the swaybar and had no issues. I did run 2" spacers and also no tracking issues. I have since went with WJ 5on5 on the front to eliminate the spacers I had there. I was running 15 inch Canyons by 8. I do have 5 to 4.5 adapters on the rear. I will try and eliminate them latter.

How much width difference? The Ford 8.8 is 1.5 inch narrower. I do not feel any tracking difference. And other ways to improve tracking. Do you lose or gain axle width if you swap on disc brakes? What size tires are you running? And manual or auto? I am looking at widening a future 8.8 swap on an XJ. I did get some 20mm spacers and ordered some 2.8" lug studs. The spacers are only through holes, and not the bolt on, if that makes sense. The stud I ordered from NAPA. If interested I'll get the PN.

I use Zerex Z05. I believe it is OAT. I read on BITOG that the newer green formulas are OAT. The Z05 is for aluminum engines. Ford and Mercedes use it. Sine I have a MB240D and a Ford Contour SVT, I prefer to use one type of anti-freeze. I would not mix any of the newer formulas. My neighbor works at a dealership. He said they mixed two different colors of the newer stuff and it congealed up. I thought the RV stuff was polypropylene or such. I think similar to Evan's waterless coolant.

This, and as to responses like it above. We have had some items missing in my neighborhood of late. So, if someone is snooping, they may be meet with more than attitude. See Eagles post. And once you cross that line, you have little chance of making a friends. If not there, maybe leave a note. I did have some cars covered at my place. They were Saab Sonnets. The lady left a note as her son needed a windshield for a Nissan 240, the newer ones. I called back and suggested Car-Parts,inc. The website, there is a salvage yard out by me with the same name. I bought some axles last week from them, and they are listed on Car-Part.inc, too.

OK, my XJ is running. I wanted to let the OP know that the ignition key and its electronics can be an issue. I am not sure of the older style of electronics for that. Also, as has been pointed out, ignition coils do go bad. I had one that was intermittent on a 78 Gremlin.

'-Learn to multi-task on the screen'. I forgot to mention to get two monitors. It really helps, especially with drafting. Does not have to be a big monitor. 17" will do. You can keep email etc. up on it. It also helps if you have to search for standards or other stuff for drafting. Computer software is already set up to use dual monitors. Just have to have the right cables. I think most new monitors come with them. Also, takes away the stress of the job. The drafting group I was in was the first in our company to do this. It was actually my suggestion. I had to print out and other stuff to reply to emails. I was checking drawings at the time. We were also going through a paperless process. I remembered one of my friends who did computer programming using two monitors to compare codes. A lot of those who rotated to other groups bought their own 2nd monitor. Monitors are relatively cheap these days.