75sv1

Yup, knew there would be the need for adapters.......... or WJ Big Brake upgrade, and use the WJ Hubs. On the rear, Ford 8.8 with Yukon shaft upgrade and use the 5on5 bolt pattern. I have done the front on one of my XJs. Working on the rear. Also, some states adapters are not road legal. I will agree with WahooSteeler, Depends on how the rest of the Jeep is dressed as to if the rims look good. Also, if the rims overpower the looks of the Jeep.

As has been suggested, driveshafts and steering box are things to check. Have you rebuilt the drive shafts? Also, check the frame at the steering box for cracks. If you have the aluminum steering box bracket, I'd replace it with one of the steel after market ones. Also, rotate tires. Also, the DW might have damages parts. I've been through DW myself. There were a few culprits. Part of mine was probably the RC upper control arms holes were worn out. Edit: Two things to check are the engine and trans mounts, and the harmonic balancer. Also, might have it aligned by a shop that does Jeep 4X4s. Edit again: You mention travel in the lane. Is this wandering or side to side ? Possibly steering box or trackbar is loose. I had a bushing on my trackbar that was sloted.

The best practice is not to get under a vehicle with jackstands or jack. I like a solid piece of wood. Yes, I work in the peripheral of the vehicle with jackstand and a floor jack. Still, not a good practice. Also, I think the Pittsburg line is not HF exclusive.

I bought a set here in the US. I remember about $150 to $180. There is a write up somewhere to install them. I got into the test fit phase of and cut the drip pan to clear the braceing on the underside of the hood. Also, I like to run ceramic coated headers. They help in underhood temps.

I have the THOR kit to put in. I plan on a second battery in the airbox place, in my '00 XJ. I think Dirt Bound sells a tray to go there. Also, won a Genesis Dual Battery kit. It will probably go into my '01 XJ.

Some thought that with the Bricklins. The frame would/could rust. OK, my DD's. That's for Daily Driver's. Today, it was the Volt. Earlier this week, it was the '81 MB 240d. The front exhaust pipe cracked in two, going to work. Sort of a hard item to order. I found one on E-Bay up in Canada for $80 shipped. Also, the '98 XJ I call PJJ sometimes fills in. Working on an '00 XJ to replace it. 'I walk to work most days so...' Same boots everyday?

I've used this on my Ford Contour SVT. Porsche uses it.

I hauled a bunch of traffic cones once. It was for either a car show or for a downtown parade. We couldn't get the city's truck to run. Had my MJ down on the springs. I did pick up a D30, AX-15 and trans crossmember in OH, a long time back. While picking up the parts, they guy looked at the splotch of oil on the ground. He said' Sorry about your truck'. I replied, 'That's only blow-by'.

I thought a remake of Doctari.

I have attempted this. The motor mounts are as you describe. I made a spacer on the passenger side. Then I had the driver's side cut and welded. I plan to look into an aftermarket motor mounts to be modified. The bosses seem to be all there, but need to be drilled, spot faced and tapped. I remember someone who did this years ago, about the time I started on this. I put a '95 4.0L cylinder head on it. I might go back to a TUPY head. It has a boss needed for the accessory drive. With the WJ accessory drive, I plan to use an electric fan. There are advantages with the WJ setup. One thing I am not sure of is the rotation of the WJ water pump. The hole number and spacing is a bit different than the XJ water pump. I'll try and look at the links you posted latter. Edit: The Great Lakes Post makes sense. Timing Cover Gasket Water Pump Gasket (Can I re-use the old water pump?) New Head Gasket (obviously) New Head Bolts? (I don't have a FSM, can you re-use headbolts with the 4.0L?) Intake/ Exhaust Gasket 1 Should be the same. The Great Lakes article says to use the earlier Timing Cover. Not sure why. 2. Water pump was covered in The Great Lakes article. You will need to drill a hole. I'd buy a NAPA water pump. 3. Head gasket is the same. 4. You can reuse the 4.0L head bolts once. 5. Buy an intake exhaust gasket for the year of the head you put on.

I've had/have some Rusty's and RC parts. Trac bars from Rusty's. They seem OK. With Rusty's , they charge a bunch for shipping. So with that factored in, you could step up to the next level of parts. Say, OME or RE. I do have RC rear springs. They lack the anti-friction pads. For a few bucks more, your at Zone. Maybe a bit more than that, OME. I do have a set of OME rear springs to install. On control arms, I don't know if the set I have is Rusty's or RC. I think RC. The upper has 1/16 sheet metal to the axle. Compared to 1/4 for Core. Core has 3 level of control arms. I do have items from Iron Rock and Ironman 4X4. Always good stuff. Ruff Stuff should get a mention, too. I haven't used Stinky Fab or Metal Cloak. Plenty of other smaller firms, that make items worth looking at.

I read that list, as mine was off the line before Beyers bought the inventory. From my conversations with people who were there, some were just missing a part or two. Sort of a steering wheel, then so on down the line. It does seem from the bottom of that page Beyers owned the remaining cars at any dealership. I did not know that. Mine has air doors. I converted then back in '87 or so. I did have the hydraulics for a while. I had about two shots to get it started. I then stuffed in the largest battery that would fit. Some improvement. Air doors so much better. I need to upgrade to the electronic air pump. I want to see if I can come up with an air reservoir to fit up in the frame channel between the battery box and the air door selonid box. Reduce weight and center the weight. I was told there is a reservoir in the front bumper, that was planned for the air doors. They also designed a setup like the DeLorean. DeLorean was an initial supplier.

I have 2758. 100 from the last one off the official production.

Yeh, my '75 Bricklin has the battery behind the driver's seat. What were they thinking? No, heat from the engine, 48/52 balance. Why my '15 Volt has two batteries? OK, its sort of electric.

The 2000 down or cross over pipe has the O2 sensor near the bell housing. That's for the Federal emissions. Don't know if that would help with your adaptation. Let us know how that wiring works out. I plan on a similar swap. There is some things I like about the 2000 Federal emissions wiring. The 2001 down pipe or cross over pipe has no bung for the O2 sensor. Just in case that helps the adaptation.

'I have the extended editions and I watched the extra material. They talked about the decision making process when writing the screen play. Their #1 rule was "if it's not directly tied to the story of the ring, it's something we can take out." That's why whole sections, like Tom Bombadil, are entirely missing. While it's interesting stuff, it's not directly related to the story of the ring. And with only a few hours per movie, they couldn't fit everything in and they ended up making some changes to fit more of the story in to less screen time. But that is why so many movies are so different than the books. They just don't have time to fit everything in. So they make changes. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. With LotR, they put a screenplay together that flowed well and kept the essence of the story going. That doesn't always happen when they go from the book to the movie, unfortunately. But it's great when it does.' Agreed. I think the main reason to see LoTR, is the cinematography. There are some movies I think are a must see on the Big Screen. One of the scenes in LoTR is when they are leaving the Elven village. The Princess is seen as they depart in a boat. There is a ring on her finger. It is hard for the movie to conject the importance of that ring. When the master ring is destroyed, then the Elves power is gone. That is why they must leave at the end of the movie.

I think Lord of the Rings was a good adaptation of the books. At least the second try. There was an animation version in the 70's. Actually, the Hobbit animation was good for the time. There is only so much that can be explained visually. Yes, I read the books.

I'm kind of surprised there is not a laser marked barcode on the factory ones. Then they could just scan them at recyclers. When I lived out in Tulsa, in the mid 80's, some suggested to have the glass serial numbered, and that would cut down on car theft. Or at least make your ride less profitable. One of my friends has had her cats stolen 2-3 times. I think 1K-2K each time. They have to replace the pipes before and after. They did catch a cat thief a few months back.

Mine has the Ford 351W. I'll see if I have a picture. I haven't had it out in a long time. Its under a bunch of stuff.

75SV1 is for the 1975 Bricklin SV-1 I own, since I was 21. SV = Safety Vehicle. First vehicle to be deemed structurally sound enough to be used for the rear end collision test, after the front collision test.

I have a '98 XJ with cruise I added. Also, has a Ford 8.8. The cruise control has nothing to do with the Ford 8.8, to my knowledge. There is an electrical sensor on top of the Ford 8.8. It is for the Anti-lock brakes.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nicopp-japanese-nickel-copper-brake-line-3-16-x-60-cnj-360/22190258-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=22190258-P&adtype=&msclkid=482c88ac5b031d96cf31d6c7d0c71de3&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=b_pla_all_brakes%2Fhardware_brake%2Fhardware_gen_gen_all_pros_aap_us_all&utm_term=4581183924577311&utm_content=Bing_PLA_Brakes - Hardware_Brake Hardware_Brake Lines&gclid=CJyIhLfIl-gCFUqYxQIdNPwDRA&gclsrc=ds I also searched NiCop. Something about National Identification Card for Pakistanis . ???

The HO's at stock are about the same restriction, as the RENIX. They barely feed a stock 4.0L. I think the RENIX can be bored out to 57MM and the HO to 60MM, by removing the restriction. I think the RENIX can be bored with a new butterfly to 60MM and the HO to 62mm. Yes, 60mm is not good for a stroker. I have followed the 99+ intake manifold for a long time. Yes, some have lost a few ponies. Some have gained a few. I do have one on my 98 XJ, stock motor. Initially, I did not see much if any improvement. That is with a Doug Thorley header and 2.5 exhaust. I was having trouble with some of the hills on I-79 in WV. I bored out the TB to 60mm. I did not have to downshift to 3rd on those hills. I don't have the files for that dyno run. I remember Hornbrod using Neon injectors. I was using Ford 4 hole, and now have 12 hole Bosch. Go Jeep's page: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoIntakeManifold1.htm I remember Jordache posting that info on NAXJA. I lot of ???. I don't remember him posting that he changed the regulator.

I wouldn't say the RENIX TB is junk. Still, it is limited to what diameter you can bore it out to. I'd say on a stroker, 62mm is the minimum. Also, the exhaust needs to be 2.5" diameter. Some are going 3". Also, I have a different view on the 99+ intake. Hornbrod a member on here, posted a dyno of 12hp gain. That was at the rear wheels. Some of this is that the system needs to be equal or balanced. So, the last part you put on that corrects the flow, will be were you see the power gain.

I am in the process of building a stroker, myself. I have followed stroker builds from the early days, say 2001. Brice was still posting on CC, as I remember. I think he did the first budget stroker. I am not an expert by any means. Also, the 'negative' post on strokers do have some weight. It would depend on what level of stroker you are planning. In this case, what the kit is. For my kit, I went with Bishop-Buell (Russ Pottenger). I wanted a mild stroker to run on 87 octane. That was mainly what piston to use vs head. So, I should be able to get by with the 12 hole Bosch injectors I already have. The minimum piston I could go with was a .030 over bore. So a 4.6L stroker. Also, I have a mild cam for it. It would be interesting as to what parts are in the kit.