75sv1

Article is wrong. I have fit earlier VC on latter heads. I have a VC from a ZJ on both a '98 and a 2000. Also, the TUPY head is basically the same as the earlier 0331. I think they added material between the 3 and 4 exhaust ports. Also, made in Brazil I think. So TUPY is the plant where it is cast. PNs get fun as to what constitutes a new PN or not, according to a manufacture.

I have messed with the 4 types of 4.0L heads. The RENIX has lower intake ports. I think the injector reliefs are more pronounced than latter heads. The 91-95 are suppose to be the best flowing. Not by much, though. They and I think the RENIX have an extra temp sensor in them. The 96-99, do not have the extra temp sensor in them. They do have the location pins. They do have two exhaust 'D' ports, 2 and 5. I think the 91-95 and the RENIX have them too. I am ports two of them. I have put '95 heads on a '03 WJ block, and an '00 Block. You have to eye the location. I wrapped some tape around some head bolts to located the '95 head on my 2000 block for a stroker. The 2000+ or if a WJ motor 99+ heads have smaller square exhaust ports. Also, the bosses for the rail coil. You can use any 4.0L head on any 4.0L block. Its the adaption of the Valve cover and the coil or coil pack. I have put the 93-98 ZJ valve cover on latter 4.0L motors, a '98 and a 2000. The 96+ just had two head bolts with location dowels for the VC gasket. I also plan to do the Viper coil on my 2000. I am having issues with the coil placement by the overflow bottle. The AC hose line is in the way. I am looking at locating it on the head and block. One person on NAXJA made a bracket to use the Coil Rail holes. I am planning to use two holes on the head. The '95 head has two holes drilled. They are the same width as the holes on the Viper coil. On the '99 head and the 2000 head, one of the holes is not drilled. The casting is the same in that area. Same with the 2000 head.

The grill is right side up. People on CC just hate that. Please de-fix it.

The WJs, I think deleted the adapter. I was going to try a remote filter and an oil cooler at some point.

No, issues. The main aspect if not doing the WJ setup, is you'd probably have to use the 2000-up rotors. I have not done that, so theory at this point. 'Which hub did you end up running to get a 5 on 5 pattern? I believe the WJ hub will not work since its for CV axles. Your Yukon kit will give you a 5 on 5.5 pattern by the way, not the 5 on 5 you desire.' I used the hub from a WJ. Its 5 on 5. It has the same height as a 2000-up XJ or TJ hub. It should bolt up to an XJ/ZJ D30 knuckle. As above you'd need to use a 2000+ XJ rotor. On a WJ Big Brake upgrade, and using the WJ knuckle, you have to weld on a 1/4 spacer. That will space the u-joint of the axle shaft in the proper axis. Also, I will be trying to 'upgrade' the WJ BB upgrade, latter this year. Cobra Marty used a 13 inch rotor from a Mustang, and I remember a Dodge Dakota Caliper. I am looking at one of the New Cherokee or other Jeep for a rotor that spaces correctly and is 13 inches. With a 17 inch rim, it should clear. I do run a WJ with 16" rims from a 2000 XJ presently. Also, could do the same with 5 on 4.5 with Liberty part. Again, theoretical, as I have not done this yet. If anyone wants to try, I'll look at parts.

I run WJ/JK 5 on 5 on one of my XJs. I did the WJ Big Break upgrade. I used the hub bearing unit on the front D30. I still had/have to use spacer/adapters on the rear. I do have a Ford 8.8 on the rear. I do have a Yukon kit to 'upgrade' the Ford 8.8 to a floating axle. It does have the option of going to 5 on 5. Some states do not allow to use psacers. I think PA is one of them.

I saw one in Harrison OH/IN this past weekend. There was an XJ next to it.

Yours looks like someone adapted a later CCV elbow. The '93-97 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) had these and the 1996-2001 Cherokees (XJ) had these on the pressed steel Valve Covers. The ZJ valve covers do show up on XJs sometimes. I think as a replacement. I do use the ZJ VCs on my 2000 XJ. It gives me the newer CCV system with an aluminum VC. The 96-2001 XJ and later 4.0L have a larger rear tube. This is also suppose to help with oil control. I have done the mod Cruiser shows to the ZJ valve cover. If you use the ZJ VC and the big tube, then you will need to lengthen the tube if used on a RENIX intake. I did that on my '88 MJ. I also found that the seal between the VC and the head needs to be good. I use the FelPro silicone seal. I think about $30-50.

I'm 1 hour South of Indy. Say 5 to 10 years back, I'd see 4-6 different MJs in a month. I haven't seen them. I did see 2 different ones in the past month, maybe 3.

Was it the diesel?

Well, what's the options? MJ drivers?

I'd throw in a Pontiac Aztek. She won't get a date till she's 30. You can rest easy at night. No need to buy a shotgun and rock salt loads. I actually think the Aztec looks good.

There is a thread in the other forum.

Curious about the e-fans. I do have a set of SPALs to install with the Dirt Bound shroud. How are the temps? I think with the SPALs I'll have about 2400 CFM. Most want 3000 CFM. I am looking into using the stock electric fan, then add a RHD electric fan and something in the middle. I did order some Nickintime E-fan controllers.

I also have 2 CFS 3-row all metal radiators. I'm not running in as extremes environments as others. I run about 205 to 210F with a 195F thermostat. The first one did have some damage done to it. I had DW and that took out the motor mounts. Also, the fan was close to the radiator. So, as suggested, use a MOPAR fan clutch if you go with a wider 2 or 3 row radiator. I have run the new one for about 2 years. I had it in my '98 XJ. Now my 2000 XJ. Had issues over the winter as the thermostat malfunctioned. I think a Mr. Gasket. So, I recommend a good quality 195F thermostat.

Or, it's so bad, your track bar bracket to the axle breaks off. A 6 hour drive becomes 12.

I'd stick with the 01 ecu. I do have an 00, but its a Fed. So, no pre-cats. I do have an 01, but its stripped. On my 00 I do plan to change over to a 96-99 head. I am porting one now. I did and would change over to an aftermarket header. I have a JBA ceramic coated header. I got it cheap. That should match up to the '97 ports. Then its replace with distributor with the later part. I don't know if you have inspections or what your state laws are. I think in some states X amount of years old don't need to follow emissions. Also, if you delete the pre cats, then the wiring harness from the ECM might need to be changed. I haven't gotten there yet. I'd then look at an '00 FED exhaust from the header to the cat. That is if you plan to delete the pre cats. Yes, check State and Federal regulations. There is a large fine to delete cats.

My version of DW is think your on a bucking bronco. Not, fun. And not fun if there is a semi on your tail.

I'd look at your present HVAC box. I think it should have the space for the evaporator.

I am wonder if even if the drop brackets would help with DW. A lot of issues can lead to DW. Mine was a cracked frame. You don't say how much lift you have. And that would lead to how long you upper and lower control arms need to be. Also, if you have drop brackets, the length is shorter.

Also, look here:

What year XJ? The reason I ask is the 2000-01 the blend door is electronically controlled. Earlier ones are cable controlled. Others will have to chime in as for or if the 91-96 or the 97-99 HVAC box will mount up to the 87-90 firewall.

As for the 'later' hub bearings, I'd include SKF. Also, about 1999 to 2000 they changed to ones with less height width. You just have to use the same rotor from the same year. Also, the later ones, 2000+ are used in WJ Big Brake upgrades. I have used Moog (Mexico) and F.A.G. Hub Bearings. I did not have an issue with either. Then again I used a Chinese one and it held up with the MOOG. I do see three bolts with the 12 point heads. That leads me to believe you have hub bearings. I could be wrong though.

If you go with a 2 or 3 row, use a MOPAR Clutch fan. The After Market ones are a bit wider. So, no clearance with a 3 row radiator. I have been using the CFS 3 row brass or all metal for over 5 years. I learned the hard way about the aftermarket Clutch fans. That and Death Wobble. DW took out the motor mounts. So, the engine flopped forward. I did have that radiator repaired. But its sitting up stairs above the garage if needed.

I remember a write up about swapping on a 99+ intake to 87-95 motors. I think you need to space the PS pump forward a bit.