75sv1

Ture, and the sales of the XJ continued so DC didn't axe it. The ZJ was also to compete against the Ford Explorer. So, it might have left a void in the market if the XJ was discontinued. Much like the KJ was originally designed to compete against the cute utes. Then it sort of left a void of the XJ's market.

Yes, about that time frame, mini-trucks were the 'IN' thing. There was even a convertible Dakota. The MJ stayed about the same. The XJ, well there was the ZJ to cover the upscale market. Still, what ever really competed against it?

Also, there is an oil seal for the distributor.

I disagree that it was the Cherokee that put it out of production. More like the Dakota.

The distributor also has a seal. I would do both the oil filter and the distributor.

Looks AC, After Comanche. So, not Ancient.

I haven't put in the winch itself yet. Yeah, a bummer. I wanted to have it fitted on there and such. Its a bit of a pain to take off the 'cradle' . I did add frame stiffeners, so the fit was a bit tight. I do like the engineering behind it. I went with a one piece bumper. Really easy to take off and put back on. So, I'd think two center sections and the wing bumperettes. One center tubes and open for wheeling. One enclosed for running around, to keep eyes off the winch.

I have Ironman's. I also have Bad Dad Fabs Hidden winch setup and bumper. Both do well.

I had all four at one setting. I did Laughing gas, so I was awake the whole time. The first tooth came right out. Then each one after was more difficult. They had to section them. I remember one being half way out. I drove home and them on an airplane that evening. Not the best thing to do.

I think people wanted to see my '75 Bricklin SV-1. So, I'm sure they would want to see a Datsun 240D, or even a Fair Lady. Cars are cars and Trucks are trucks. Sometimes we can pick up techniques from other's issues. 'A Wise Man learns from his mistakes, A Sage learns from others, A Fool never learns, and deserves to drive a Yugo'

Pete dosen't have a black bed??? Dealers and insurance even many buyers will low ball you. The price escalates with low miles and clean no rust. Also another idea is to take the $$$ from the insurance and buy it back at say $1,000. Then see if you can find a shop to repair it for a lot less. I think the damage could be punched out temporarily and driven. Or even driven as is. I'd say $8K minimum and up, say $15K . I thought KBB doesn't even offer any evaluation on these.

One of my XJs is at 4.5 lift. Oil pan came right out. I've heard if you tilt it and smack it with a hammer. Haven't done the oil seal while the engine is in the vehicle.

I did see one outside of Oakland, MD. A Silver Sport. The odd thing I stopped to ask about the 5 Ford Fiesta's I saw. Have someone in WV looking for one. Talked to the wife. No not for sale, and looking for more. ???

My drive to PA, then WV and back to Indy. About $3.50 in Mid OH. $375-$4.00 in PA. It was $3.50 in NJ, just across the border of PA. MD varried $3.35 to $3.75. I filled up in Elkins WV for $3.35. Then in Hunnigton for $3.25. I saw $3.07. I filled up in Maysville KY got $3.12. About $3.65 in IN.

I run the NAPA Adaptive-Reactive Pad and rotors on one of my XJs. I think they are the same as the Raybestos or Wagners. The rotors do have squiggly grooves. I think they do OK. I'd probably try Raybestos or is it Wagner Thermo Quiets. Then possibly Centric rotors.

What I'd do is change the oil and filter. Then remove the coil wire. So IE no spark. Crank the engine over a few minutes. Then attach the coil wire back on and start it. See if it clacks then. I'd also change all fluids, radiator cap if you plan to drive it.

NV3550. Also, there was a 6 spd. I don't know its number.

First, it seems you have a manual trans. So, gearing is different than for an Auto. So, 3.55 for 31's and 4.10's for 32-33's for a manual trans.

Land, MJ 4 wheeling ONLY! Yeah, that's the ticket. Must have a trout stream. A Fleet on MJs. Maybe an AMX-3 or buy all 7 of them.

I would not worry. I have used the non hole ones. No issues. Also, that is what was supplied with my 4.6L Stroker from Bishop-Buel Racing. I was supplied a set with half of the rod with the hole cut out. I kind of took it as a clearance for the rod bolt. There isn't much room there. I am referencing Smokey Yunick's 'Power Secrets", I think. They use to not taper the end of the bearings. So, the forces would be at the bottom mostly. It would collapse the bearing in a bit. Then the journal would catch the edge. Then the bearing would spin. I don't think you hear about spun bearings as much. I did get the DAYCO Harmonic Balancer. Looks good. The elastomer looks to be one piece. Machining looks good. Made in China. The other one I mentioned is Professional Products Powerforce Damper for 4.0L Jeep 6-cyl PN 80100. Also, put some oil on the bearing shells surface that contacts the cranks shaft. I used straight 30 weight SAE oil. A break in aditive would help. GM EOS or Motor Honey, or say Permatext assembly lube. The Permatext was supplied for the 4.6L stroker.

Also, I suggest a new Harmonic balancer. I am checking into the Dayco one. I do have a Power Performance on my '98. I am building a 4.6 stroker that will get a Power Performance one I have. I am looking for one for a mini-stroker I am assembling. I did use a NAPA one on my 2000 XJ. That will get the mini stroker. The MJ gets the 4.6.

Also, there is a difference for the main bearings for the RENIX vs the HO's. I found out the hard way when or as I am doing a mini-Stroker. I bought a 238 crankshaft with bearings. The tabs are in a different location for the RENIX and earlier AMC blocks. I bought a set of Clevites. Also, I used ACL cam bearings. I think they are out of Australia. I could not find a coated set of bearings for the 4.0L.

Traveled last week. Across OH. About $3.65. PA varied, $3.85 to $4.19. MD was around $3.65-$3.79 across the panhandle. I did find $3.56 at Aroura. Yeah, I filled up. Then $3.46 in Elkin WV. Filled. Cheapest I saw was in Western WV, for $3.35. It was about $4.00 in IN and around Cincy.

I'd check Ebay too. Sometimes stuff goes cheap there. I try and use the MOOG P/Ns or MOPAR ones. Also, if you can find the TRW or Norris-McQuay those are good parts.

I did gas up the other day. I notice liquid under neath. Yeah, just what I need. I went back home and drove the Volt in to work. Fortunately, it was just the upper radiator hose. At least it happened at home and not on a road trip.