75sv1

Looks AC, After Comanche. So, not Ancient.

I haven't put in the winch itself yet. Yeah, a bummer. I wanted to have it fitted on there and such. Its a bit of a pain to take off the 'cradle' . I did add frame stiffeners, so the fit was a bit tight. I do like the engineering behind it. I went with a one piece bumper. Really easy to take off and put back on. So, I'd think two center sections and the wing bumperettes. One center tubes and open for wheeling. One enclosed for running around, to keep eyes off the winch.

I have Ironman's. I also have Bad Dad Fabs Hidden winch setup and bumper. Both do well.

I had all four at one setting. I did Laughing gas, so I was awake the whole time. The first tooth came right out. Then each one after was more difficult. They had to section them. I remember one being half way out. I drove home and them on an airplane that evening. Not the best thing to do.

I think people wanted to see my '75 Bricklin SV-1. So, I'm sure they would want to see a Datsun 240D, or even a Fair Lady. Cars are cars and Trucks are trucks. Sometimes we can pick up techniques from other's issues. 'A Wise Man learns from his mistakes, A Sage learns from others, A Fool never learns, and deserves to drive a Yugo'

Pete dosen't have a black bed??? Dealers and insurance even many buyers will low ball you. The price escalates with low miles and clean no rust. Also another idea is to take the $$$ from the insurance and buy it back at say $1,000. Then see if you can find a shop to repair it for a lot less. I think the damage could be punched out temporarily and driven. Or even driven as is. I'd say $8K minimum and up, say $15K . I thought KBB doesn't even offer any evaluation on these.

One of my XJs is at 4.5 lift. Oil pan came right out. I've heard if you tilt it and smack it with a hammer. Haven't done the oil seal while the engine is in the vehicle.

I did see one outside of Oakland, MD. A Silver Sport. The odd thing I stopped to ask about the 5 Ford Fiesta's I saw. Have someone in WV looking for one. Talked to the wife. No not for sale, and looking for more. ???

My drive to PA, then WV and back to Indy. About $3.50 in Mid OH. $375-$4.00 in PA. It was $3.50 in NJ, just across the border of PA. MD varried $3.35 to $3.75. I filled up in Elkins WV for $3.35. Then in Hunnigton for $3.25. I saw $3.07. I filled up in Maysville KY got $3.12. About $3.65 in IN.

I run the NAPA Adaptive-Reactive Pad and rotors on one of my XJs. I think they are the same as the Raybestos or Wagners. The rotors do have squiggly grooves. I think they do OK. I'd probably try Raybestos or is it Wagner Thermo Quiets. Then possibly Centric rotors.

What I'd do is change the oil and filter. Then remove the coil wire. So IE no spark. Crank the engine over a few minutes. Then attach the coil wire back on and start it. See if it clacks then. I'd also change all fluids, radiator cap if you plan to drive it.

NV3550. Also, there was a 6 spd. I don't know its number.

First, it seems you have a manual trans. So, gearing is different than for an Auto. So, 3.55 for 31's and 4.10's for 32-33's for a manual trans.

Land, MJ 4 wheeling ONLY! Yeah, that's the ticket. Must have a trout stream. A Fleet on MJs. Maybe an AMX-3 or buy all 7 of them.

I would not worry. I have used the non hole ones. No issues. Also, that is what was supplied with my 4.6L Stroker from Bishop-Buel Racing. I was supplied a set with half of the rod with the hole cut out. I kind of took it as a clearance for the rod bolt. There isn't much room there. I am referencing Smokey Yunick's 'Power Secrets", I think. They use to not taper the end of the bearings. So, the forces would be at the bottom mostly. It would collapse the bearing in a bit. Then the journal would catch the edge. Then the bearing would spin. I don't think you hear about spun bearings as much. I did get the DAYCO Harmonic Balancer. Looks good. The elastomer looks to be one piece. Machining looks good. Made in China. The other one I mentioned is Professional Products Powerforce Damper for 4.0L Jeep 6-cyl PN 80100. Also, put some oil on the bearing shells surface that contacts the cranks shaft. I used straight 30 weight SAE oil. A break in aditive would help. GM EOS or Motor Honey, or say Permatext assembly lube. The Permatext was supplied for the 4.6L stroker.

Also, I suggest a new Harmonic balancer. I am checking into the Dayco one. I do have a Power Performance on my '98. I am building a 4.6 stroker that will get a Power Performance one I have. I am looking for one for a mini-stroker I am assembling. I did use a NAPA one on my 2000 XJ. That will get the mini stroker. The MJ gets the 4.6.

Also, there is a difference for the main bearings for the RENIX vs the HO's. I found out the hard way when or as I am doing a mini-Stroker. I bought a 238 crankshaft with bearings. The tabs are in a different location for the RENIX and earlier AMC blocks. I bought a set of Clevites. Also, I used ACL cam bearings. I think they are out of Australia. I could not find a coated set of bearings for the 4.0L.

Traveled last week. Across OH. About $3.65. PA varied, $3.85 to $4.19. MD was around $3.65-$3.79 across the panhandle. I did find $3.56 at Aroura. Yeah, I filled up. Then $3.46 in Elkin WV. Filled. Cheapest I saw was in Western WV, for $3.35. It was about $4.00 in IN and around Cincy.

I'd check Ebay too. Sometimes stuff goes cheap there. I try and use the MOOG P/Ns or MOPAR ones. Also, if you can find the TRW or Norris-McQuay those are good parts.

I did gas up the other day. I notice liquid under neath. Yeah, just what I need. I went back home and drove the Volt in to work. Fortunately, it was just the upper radiator hose. At least it happened at home and not on a road trip.

I have RC control arms. I ran then for a few years. Only issue is that the upper use on 1/16 sheet metal. I like 3/16 to a 1/4. I did have Ruff Stuff control arms bracket put on them. I might think about welding on washers on each side.

I still go back to a posting on BITOG. It was analysis of oil test from Blackstone. They did three different engines or vehicles. Rotella T6 was studied in 2 of them. It was at the top, with Amsoil. The third, Chevy Corvette, it was not reported in. AMSOIL was at the top of the list.

Road tested this morning. Low temps outside, and some reported snow flakes. Heat worked.

I did install the Heater Treater Blend door, yesterday. I think Doorman makes a plastic replacement kit too. Everything went OK. The Heater Treater uses flats on the shaft to match the ones on the blend door motor. The replacement blend door motor(s) came with splined parts. The original Blend Door had this insert. So, a negative with the Heater Treater, is the blend door might not full move to seal the one side. The side towards the firewall. I have actuated it, with the cut out not in place. So, about 1/8 to a 1/4 gap. I haven't road tested it yet.

Depends on what 'older' means. Early 80's, or 2000+? Also, I think the older engines take thicker oil better. I did have an issue with my 2000 Ford Contour SVT and 20W-50 synthetic. The lifters didn't like it. I only ran it 3K. The 80's Pennzoil and Quaker State had a lot of paraffin in them. Also, they were good for say 2K or so. I did run Castrol Syntec in my '96 Contour from 20K to probably 120K. Engine was clean. I did change to Shaffer them Pennzoil Platinum. All were fine in that motor. It never used a drop of oil, even at 214K. I sold it about then.