JustEmptyEveryPocket

If you want to make sure those studs never move, think about using THIS type of loctite.

Problem solved and solution found: replace said hoses. New power steering pump should be fine.

I completely agree. Snow + 4wd Comanche = Good Times.

Gonna need some more info here. What color fluid? What did it smell like? Where did it come from? Where was the fluid in your engine bay? Right now all I can saw with authority is that you might have an oil/ coolant/ power steering/ transmission/ differential/ gasoline/ shock/ etc. fluid leak. Probably should get it taken care of though!

My first guess would be air in the system somewhere. I would recommend bleeding it until you are blue in the face, walk away, then rebleed it after a couple of hours.

Does this just mean less lift? So this would be an option for anyone looking to lower their MJs?

I agree completely with this statement. Every time I see one of these "trucks" I am horrified by it. Jeep screwed the pooch on this one imo.

THIS THREAD seems to have your same issue, and points to the same solution as I stated above.

On other threads people have mentioned unplugging the variable speed wiper box. Its under the dash, and if you unhook it you are then supposed to be able to plug the two cables directly together. This should give you all or nothing on the wipers. Try that first and see if maybe your box is the problem.

Hooker Pete's ??

Awesome! I will contact him for sure.

What kind of topper is on your MJ?

For snake oil, I use Marvels Mystery Oil. I put a quart in on every oil change and add 4-6 ounces on every fuel tank fill. If your problem really is junk in the head, it will take several oil changes and several tanks of fuel until you notice improvements. It takes awhile to break down sludge buildup. This should be required for all Renix Owners. It will give you actual data on how your truck is running. Really helps diagnosis.

So part of my collection of old crappy vehicles is a 1985 Toyota BJ73. Its a JDM vehicle, so its got all kinds of cool things not offered here in the US. Besides being right hand drive and having a PTO driven front winch, its a diesel engine. Specifically a NA 3B. Its started leaking badly from the Injection Pump. So obviously I need to take it off, have it rebuilt, and then put it back on. This leads me to my main two questions: Does anyone know an old school builder that can reseal my injection pump? Does anyone have experience timing an old mechanical diesel engine? There is supposed to be some specialty tool that I need to get, but I can't seem to track down a part number anywhere, much less an explanation of how to do it. This has me leery of jumping into it. Anything you guys know would be appreciated. Especially anyone from the cold white north, where the BJ73 left hand drive was sold for a bit. Any help/ advice appreciated. Thanks guys!

Thanks, now I want a pair of those! Do you happen to know if they can be ordered with convex glass instead of straight glass? Especially for the passenger side.

Or treat it like a timed challenge event. Can you replace it while holding your breath before you pass out? Seriously though, a fan blowing under there would be a good idea.

Yup. Its just that easy.

site:comancheclub.com poor man's stroker Plug that into Google and read threads to your heart's content.

I guess I was pointing more to the logical flow Eric had. Since you have something happening at 2500rpm exactly, what else happens at 2500rpm? E-fan kick on? IDK, but it seems like that should give you good info to start chasing something. Could be a red herring as well.

Did you read the posts above yours? For instance, the one that has a link to the website of said yard? Or the posts where the name is mentioned multiple times?

Does your swap have a electronic control on the power steering pump? I'm thinking something along the lines of THIS VIDEO, finished in THIS VIDEO.

Just a friendly suggestion: Try using the search feature on the site. Or do what I do and go to google and type in "site:comancheclub.com ****" where the **** is replaced by whatever you are trying to find. Single best way to pull up threads that are pertinent to your interests IMO. In this case, I would recommend something along the lines of "Site:comancheclub.com rear springs". THIS THREAD seems like a good candidate for info for you.

Yea, .2VAC isn't good for a CPS. Most here will recommend you get a NOS one. Currently I have a NAPA CPS in my truck and it is working fine. (knocks on some wood!) Make sure you do Cruiser's mod to it. Gives a better reading. Check it out HERE. The relevant statement is "A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts." I live on gravel roads and haven't had any problems with dust, oil, and the resulting slurry. Don't get me wrong, my engine is coated, but the CPS has been fine so far. Since its wedged in the bellhousing it should be kept mostly clean and clear from outside items.

I don't have any particular threads to check out. Like I said "what I have heard". I have no first hand experience with it. Then again, I also tend to jump without looking. Thats how I got my first Comanche If the transmission isn't working as is, what have you got to lose by taking a look, eh?

Was it running poorly when you tested fuel pressure? Those numbers are correct, but won't tell you much if you don't test while the problem is happening. Just a thought. My fuel pump would put out the proper numbers every time I tapped on it. Then soon after it would drop pressure and the truck would start running poorly.