JustEmptyEveryPocket

Besides pop it open and look? Nothing I know of. If you crack it open, get a dial indicator with a magnetic base and check runout and play on all bearings. Look for metal shavings and chipped teeth, etc. From what I have read, its not terrible to rebuild an AX-15 if you can get a shop to press on gears and bearings. Any chance you want to learn to do it yourself?

Have you checked for fuel pressure? That is what is sounds like to me. Your pump is starting to go and isn't giving the correct supply for your engine to run happily most of the time. The other thing I would look at is reading your current CPS. Pulling this from memory, but it should have 0.5 volts (or more) while cranking. Someone correct me if that value is wrong. Anyways, I know you said it is new, but there have been cases of new CPSs that were faulty out of the box. So double check it.

Have you tried searching for this? Either use the search feature built into the website, or go to google and type in "site:comancheclub.com *****" where ***** is replaced by whatever you are looking for. Single best way to find threads pertaining to what you want. Don't forget about Google Image searches as well. Good luck.

Resist the urge to buy any lift, tires, or upgrades. Fix the truck as stock. Once everything is good to go, then start slowly adding the aftermarket upgrade parts.

No. Two separate systems.

If its an internal slave AX-15 I would recommend just doing the clutch master replacement. If you have a 94+ external slave AX-15 I change my recommendation to replacing the master, slave, and line between them with a pre-bled unit.

Or think WAY outside the normal box and do something like THIS. One year I will be swapping a TDI into one of my MJs. Power, fuel economy, cool factor, space, weight, AX-15 tranny, etc. It ticks all the boxes.

So I finally have closure on most of this post. Figured I should come back and update for anyone else that wants info like this: WJ booster install went fine. I didn't get the grind right on the booster rod, but I had a second option. The Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve is working as advertised. As a bonus, it has a brake light switch built in, so I have that running my brake lights instead of the pedal switch. Eagle was spot on by saying After three days of terrible flares, multiple different tool rentals, and one huge temper tantrum I went and bought THIS. And it is THE BEST THING EVER!! I wish I would have started there. It would have saved me so much time and frustration. Its $$$ upfront, but well worth it for this job alone, much less future applications. Instead of braided stainless steel hoses, I just went back to standard rubber hoses. Seemed to work fine. I did use Dot 4 fluid, only because I already had some and just bought more of the same stuff. *shrug*. No real opinions on it from me. Other than the flare tool problem, this whole job wasn't terrible. I had to chase two weeping connectors, but so far I think they are fixed just by wrenching them a little tighter. I have not figured out my e-brake yet. Between buying the Mastercool tool and the extra days the truck was sitting in the shop I had to get it back on the road. However, I will be taking care of that as soon as I can. I am still thinking to go with the driveshaft brake caliper and keep it a mechanical unit. The dual caliper is a really cool idea, but I don't think its the best for an ebrake. Read THIS ARTICLE for some viewpoints and opinions. If I remember I will come back after doing the driveshaft caliper brake and report back on it. Thanks for the advice and info in this thread. This website is awesome.

This is my thought as well. Have you tried putting some lapping compound on a q-tip, putting the q-tip in a drill and polishing the seat? Then polish the needle to match. You might also try tweaking the arm of the float so that is pushes the needle sooner.

I have an ugly AX-15 2wd model that I could rob. Shoot me a PM (with offer) if you're interested.

I might have those pieces in a grey. I know its not the color your looking for, but if you get desperate, shoot me a PM.

I am not sure how different the 4.0L one is, but I have one of those you could have for the cost of shipping.

I'll call some places tomorrow. From previous research I think the Mustang 8.8 is smaller than the Explorer 8.8. So it won't be a direct fit. Maybe all it takes is enlarging the center hole. I'll keep looking at it.

I'm probably too far away (middle of Missouri), but I have 2 AX-15 2wd transmissions and would be willing to sell one. PM if your interested.

JeepDriver: Thanks for the information. That is useful. I thought about doing a second caliper (pretty common set-up on Mustang version 8.8), but I don't have a welder for fabrication. That would make brackets kind of hard to do. I may look at that option again.

That is exactly my problem. I have a parking brake right now, but it doesn't hold on any type of slope. This is after many hours of adjustment and spinning the star wheel at the "drum" part of these disc brakes. I even took the cams out and buffed and greased the pins they rotate on in case that was causing binding and inhibiting the brakes being fully applied. Nothing has made the parking brake work to such a degree that I would trust it ever. Hence I want to go with something else. JeepDriver: Yea, I realize I need it. That is why I am changing things around. Also why I put it as part of a question in this thread. So I am left wondering how your comment is helpful or useful? Can you give me a better option (with specifics)? Or can you enumerate why the system I am thinking of "is crap"? Having read through many threads here at ComancheClub I have come across many of your comments. Often times I agree with them, especially the 'buy the correct item, buy the correct install tools, and the cost be damned' thoughts you have. However your comments of "thats stupid" or "its crap" or "forget it, I'm done" do nothing to further a thread. So if you see a better option or have a better idea, please share it. Keep your irrelevant or unsubstantiated negative comments to yourself.

So I have been thinking about this, and wanted to share my musings. First, the only way I have been parking my vehicles for 15+years is by leaving them in gear. This has worked on all kinds of slopes and in all kinds of weather, as well as on multiple vehicles. Note that I only own and drive manual transmissions, I absolutely HATE automatics. Second, if it works find to lock the transmission up (essentially what happens when you park it in gear) wouldn't this brake complete the same function, just with the option to leave the vehicle running? Finally, worst case scenario: the truck has an open diff, its parked on an extreme slope, and the ground is slick. In that case, it couldn't move in anything more than a circle, right? For one wheel to turn forward, the other wheel has to turn backwards. At some point it will be pointing in the direction that gravity pulls it and will stop moving since neither tire can rotate 'backwards'. Or am I missing something? Still open to changes if anyone has suggestions. I'm dragging my feet in buying parts until Monday.

87 MJ with a Ford 8.8 rear with discs. While driving home today I had a rear brakeline blow out. Since there are several other problems with the brake system (load height sensor doesn't work, still have a single diaphragm booster, etc) and I no longer trust the rest of the brake lines, I will be replacing everything. Probably shouldn't have ever trusted them. *Comanche purists may want to check out now* Anyways, I am redoing everything while I am at it, and wanted to run my plans, parts, and ideas by everyone. I have never done a project like this, so any advice is welcome. Gonna make my own lines using THIS as line, THIS bender, and a Harbor Freight flare tool. Will it matter what connectors I use, since I am basically replacing everything? Planning to use THIS to hang the new lines (I am expecting the plastic connectors to break as I take it apart), and put THIS over the new lines. Is the protector worth it? Since I have rear disc brakes, I would like a better way to proportion things. So I want to get THIS. I also plan on putting in an old WJ booster that I have had sitting around for a few years. I have read multiple write-ups on installing the WJ booster, but if anyone has a personal favorite for the change, please link it. Also, what can I bench test to make sure it will work after all of these years of sitting on a shelf? I want stainless steel braided hoses to reach the calipers. The truck has ~2-3" of lift. Anyone have a good resource for these? Any specifics would be appreciated. I also thought about using Dot 4 brake fluid. Anyone have a better recommendation? Finally, the last major change is to add a parking brake. I have played around with many combinations of ebrake cables, tensions, and in cab handles. None of them ever worked that well. I found THIS by Tom Woods. If anyone has it, let me know how the install went, how it works, etc. I think the concept is cool, and it should work really well. Somehow I will need to hook it up to my 97 center console handle. So all ideas welcome here. Thanks in advance!

A man of wisdom and good personal choices. He was a friend with a semi famous body guy. They showed me around their shop while I was there and they had some really cool projects going. A 67 Corvette Stingray, a 67 Cuda, an original Beetle, etc. Was an awesome trip that netted me two really solid, stock comanches.

Final picture proof for this thread: Two jeeps, one trailer. My poor 97 F-250 thought it was a hefty load for sure. https://imgur.com/mobhotG And eagle, as you can see it has at least one jeep rim. That's good enough for me to keep.

Well, here are some photos. I definitely took some pics of the trailer, but I can't find them right now. I will keep looking. Can anyone confirm that the last photo is a Dana 44? Because that would make this score even better imo. https://imgur.com/4h2hTAR https://imgur.com/1vMJLHm https://imgur.com/rqBdH3s https://imgur.com/6IHkvLf https://imgur.com/3p68SZo

Booo! Comanche > Cherokee Give it (Comanche) the good parts!

Go with a 4.7L stroker. Or watch THIS VIDEO and drool on ways to go fast with a 4.0L. To me the set-up in the video would be ideal for your asking about.

My votes would be for Sedona Arizona, Boston Mass (use public transit there for sure, do not drive), and Portland Oregon. Those are some of the best places I have been that were also fairly cheap. Sedona is for site seeing and the scenery. Boston for the history and architecture. Portland for food trucks and the forests and gardens (and the pot).

I remember doing a little looking around when I saw that photo a few years ago. IIRC that truck was COMPLETELY converted to a 97-01 cherokee. Meaning tailights, interior, exterior, etc. Anything that the person could bring over from the XJ he did. There was also a rumor that the truck was re-titled to be a 97-01 Comanche. The only one to every have that designation. Not sure if the titling part is true, but the body did look updated and it all seemed to fit and flow. Who knows how much money went into it though...