JustEmptyEveryPocket

If anyone comes back to this thread, or googles for info and finds it: a 30 ft gooseneck trailer will fit 1 SWB and 1 LWB comanche in a single trip. Just takes removing all the bumpers front and rear, pulling the front comanche's grill/condenser/etc, and lifting the front comanche so that the front part of the frame sticks through the headrack of the gooseneck. No sweat at all. However, I now have 2 complete factory comanches with very little rust and mostly straight body panels. One of them even had stock bucket seats! score!

Ohm is the man for electrical help. Follow his advice and steps and you will get it sorted in no time.

You replied to a post from 2010. The new math states something like: 2019-2010 = 2019+1-2010 -1 = 2020-2010-1 = 10-1 = 9 Because common core style math is so much easier!

Eagle ..... What year do you think it is right now?

@JeepDriver: Are those taillights street legal? I thought they had to be seen from the side as well as the back.

Hmmm, I wonder how easy it is to remove the dovetails on the trailer. Although they are stout, I doubt I could move them by hand. Maybe I could remove them ahead of time and use standard ramps to load the vehicles. Budget is low. If it wasn't I would just hire professional transport services. Trip is 6 hours one way. Hence I really don't want to make it twice if I don't have to. I thought about this. Is it legal? What about safe? I can imagine if the whole things starts swinging that it could get really ugly really fast.

Eagle, The portion of the thread you are replying to is from 2010. I assume the individual figured out what they needed to by now.

Agreed. Unfortunately that is not an option. No one else that I trust has a towing vehicle. I do have access to a 30ft gooseneck trailer. The only thing I can't figure out is how to load the last truck and get the dovetails back up in position.

I found two barn stored MJ's, which have been hidden away for ~16years. Bodies are good and I am planning on picking them up. However, I am in need of ideas for getting them home. Not enough $$ to hire a professional shipper, too far away to want to make 2 trips, and I only have 1 pulling vehicle. What ideas do you all have to make this work in a single trip? I am not above any redneck engineering solutions or hillbilly ingenuity. Above all, it must be SAFE and SANE. Those are two things were I won't cut corners. While I am fine risking my life on stupid decisions, I am not ok risking the lives of other drivers. So hit me with your ideas.

Honestly and unfortunately, since you had the MC leak you need to replace the fuse box. It is going to give you more issues down the road, some of them potentially very dangerous and all of them unexpected. This is a time to fix it once and fix it right.

Confirmed, it is completely plug and play. Besides having to switch the temp and oil pressure switches for sending units. But again, that is a plug and play operation. As to how the tach signal is generated, you will have to wait on someone much smarter than me.

Good step by step process HERE including photos and part numbers. Check on here for people selling clusters. You can also find them on eBay or check SearchTempest.

This is what I was going to suggest as well. So much cleaner and easier than do it yourself. The structure is already there in the truck, you just need to change two switches to sending units and swap the cluster around. Easy as can be.

What gauges do you have on your instrument cluster? You can swap in one that has oil pressure and temp on it without having to run abunch of wires or crazy things.

From your photos I would say the front fender (side next to your door) needs to be pulled out, meaning away from the truck, more. StrokerMJcomanche's idea will start the process. However, if it was me I would pull the entire panel off, hammer out that edge from the backside and then rehang it. You might also take a close look at your door hinges. Make sure they did crack or start to pull off the body.

A few years back I swapped the steering on my MJ (1987) for all ZJ (with the V8) stuff. The only thing is that I couldn't adjust my steering wheel to straight again because the point ran out of adjustment. Otherwise, everything fit and worked fine. So that would be my only cautionary tale.

FWIW: I am planning on doing something like this eventually. However, I would use a die to cut threads on the booster rod and the piece from the old booster rod. Then use a coupler nut to put them together. This way there is no welding as I wouldn't trust it fully either. Also makes a provision for changing brake pedal height to make it perfect.

Since you snapped it off already, can you get in there with a regular socket? Might give you more options. I guess worst case scenario is to take it to a mechanics shop and pay them to blast it out. Replace it in their parking lot on your own. Make sure to put some high temp anti-seize on the threads of the new one.

To help remove the rest of the O2, here is what I would try: Run the truck up to temp, park it in your workspace, immediately hose down the area with PB blaster or similar (have a fire extinguisher at hand), and try to wrench it out when hot. That will give you your best chance at removal. If that doesn't work, since it already broken you might try tapping around the area with a hammer to try and loosen it up. After that .... the only things I can think of get far uglier and more brutal. So keep your fingers crossed.

Easiest, fastest, and quickest would be to replace your 4.0 with another 4.0. Should be cheap and easy to get something from a JY or a retailer. Not to mention it simplifies EVERYTHING else with an engine swap. My $0.02

I can't help with the weak point part of this, but I did want to say I would be interested in buying a pair of taillights when you start production. Depending on aesthetics and price point of course. Sounds like an awesome idea though!

Eagle, I thought there was a company who starting making 5.13s that would fit in a Dana 30? Anyone know if that is true?

I put in some from an 01 VW Golf. They should be the same from mid-90s all the way into 2006 on Golf, Jetta family of cars. Don't quote me on that year range, going from memory there. They fit in the stock location without filing or grinding. However, I did have to snip wires and reconnect them. Was not bad to do at all. Plus, like cruiser said, I can now see my cab at night.

See if THIS LINK helps with location.

Here is my opinion: Fix and drive what you have right now. Don't put any money into upgrades until you have all the problems sorted. Once you have a nice stock, reliable, safe driver, then worry about upgrades. Also my opinion (less popular by far): get a mild lift and run 31s. Anything bigger and you start destroying the 'Comanche' from the truck. There are better starting platforms if your goal is truly 6" of lift + 35" tires. All that said, its your truck, do what you want with it.