89 MJ

Doesn’t look like you can get a new one.

This is a neat one. How is the WJ build going? Anything worthy of it getting a build thread update?

Yes, it would mean that the track bar is too long, which you would need for a lifted Jeep. Could you measure the track bar and hopefully someone else with a stock Jeep will be able to say how long theirs is. I personally like the yellow. Here’s a thread on the Pennzoil trucks if you’re interested.

Definitely is a D35. It looks to me like the whole axle might be shifted to the passenger side. Look at the difference in gaps between the outboard most point of the front springs and the bump stops. Anyone else wondering if this was one of the Pennzoil giveaway trucks that were yellow?

Looks like it’s Bosch ones that you want. They are commonly called the 746s. Here’s a thread with the Bosch part number.

I find this very odd. You'd be fine with a stock driveshaft with a 3" or smaller lift. And anything more than that, you'd need different control arms for sure. Let me make it clear, I'm not doubting you, but I don't think that the PO knew what was going on.

Can we see a picture of the truck and the springs along with the sway bar end links? Could you get some measurements to see if you’re actually at stock height? You should be able to clear 31s on stock wheels at the stock height.

This website is about swapping a transfer case in an AMC Eagle, but it also contains a ton of valuable information about the other 80s AMC and Jeep transfer cases. http://www.n0kfb.org/homepage/amc/tech/transfer_case/swap/index.htm

Before making a lockable lid, I’d just make a slightly larger panel and screw it over the hole. I’d worry that the lid would rattle.

The other thing that might be worth looking at is the engine to chassis ground. I’d start by cleaning the grounds and measuring the resistance of your battery cables. It should be near 0 ohms. If you need new battery cables, you could build new ones or get the big 7 battery cable kit from Jeepcables. I don’t think I’d trust parts store off the shelf ones. If you don’t need battery cables, get the battery load tested. It may be fully charged, but it might’ve died enough that it lost some capacity.

Looks great outside

You should've waited 3 more days to bump this, then it would've been a decade old

Neat!

You may want to make a new post about this issue, but I think that should be enough to start it. How do your battery cable ends look both at the battery and at their other ends?

That sounds like some cool stuff. Good to know.

Thank you!

I’m not terribly sure what I will do when I’m done with school. There’s a lot of mining, heavy equipment, or defense types of jobs down here, and I’m okay with any of those.

Looks like you've got a 21 slot grille. That is very rare.

This! It is important for vehicles to be driven. That said, the RMS would likely fix your leak at that mileage, but if it isn't a huge leak, I would probably just live with it. I'd look into painting it yourself too. Its doable.

What does it say are the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of the battery?

That would tell me that one of three things is happening. Your starter is dying, your battery cables aren’t making a good connection or are inadequate, or your battery doesn’t have enough cranking amps.

Not wanting to lay in the gravel is understandable. I’m not sure that pulling the carpet back and then having to work around the pedals is going to be a much better experience, but everyone has their preferences. Did you try getting it from the top side?

You shouldn’t need to do that. I can get to mind from either underneath or the engine compartment.

Mechanical engineering