89 MJ

Thanks Pete! Hoping things get better for your dad.

Rev it until the valves float, then grab the next gear I have about the same shift points as eaglescout526. If I need to cruise at 40, I’ll grab 5th then, but if I’m accelerating, I rev it out some. That said, you can shift anywhere up to redline. It depends on how the truck is being driven at that time. For what it’s worth, my truck is a 4.0 on 31s with 4.10s.

You might be able to find a factory roll bar for $150, you might find one for $500+. It depends on whether or not the person knows what they’ve got. You might be luckiest just searching for roll bar and hope someone has one listed not realizing it’s for an MJ. Depending on how bad you want one, you can’t be afraid to buy a whole truck for it or drive a few hours.

Most mechanical parts are available new and MJs are pretty much the same as XJs from the doors forward, but used or adapted from other vehicles/aftermarket are your options from behind the doors for the most part.

I think that is just the way things ended up for them. My truck is the same way. Give it a rinse whenever you wash the truck and you won’t get much, if any build up.

That’s a good idea. Particularly the Renault Alliance. They had the same seats as the standard XJ/MJ buckets (non wingback style).

If your auto parts store doesn’t have it, ask to see their Auveco catalogue. You’ll find the clip you need there, I can just about guarantee it. Otherwise an autobody supply place would have the same catalogue and the people would probably know what they’re talking about.

I have my doubts it will fix it, but we can hope so!

How do all of your connectors for various sensors look? Any chance you’re losing connection somewhere?

Good call. I have heard that the PCV or CCV is important to keep because it will help prevent rust due to condensation, but I also haven’t done any research on the matter. I agree that there are other problems that need fixed first for OP’s truck.

This was what I was thinking too. Or depending on the year, a cracked head. I think a catch can might be a good idea too. Just need to remember to empty it periodically.

You bet! I believe that I linked the exact post where he talks about the radiator. If I didn’t, it’s page 15 or 16 I think.

@Limeyjeeper used an MJ/XJ radiator in his truck with an LS. For the upper radiator hose, you should be able to find a passenger side outlet water neck.

Seems like there should be a knob for adjusting it. It’s mentioned a little bit here:

Is the steam out of the exhaust all of the time, even when it’s up to temp? I’d call that oil consumption fairly normal. If you’re losing coolant and the exhaust is always a white cloud, it sounds like you’re getting coolant in to the combustion chamber somewhere. I’d double check both sets of lines on the valve cover to make sure that they’re hooked up in the correct locations and that they’re not clogged.

It having water in it is a weird issue. I suspect that’s a different issue all together. The compression test is the next step, like you said. That will really dictate if you need a rebuild or not. It does not have enough miles to where I would say the engine needs rebuilt. Maintenance is important here though. The exhaust will stink if you have no catalytic converter or have bad gas. It might also smell weird if there is coolant getting into the combustion chamber (should smell slightly sweet and you’d have white smoke) or it would smell if oil is being burned, which you’d also see in the form of a blue cloud. What does your oil consumption look like between oil changes?

February 2024: The Alabama Turbo Diesel Owned by @ThreeComanches Build Thread- Year/Model - 1986 Jeep Comanche XLS Metric Ton Turbo Diesel Drivetrain- 126k miles on the body / Renault J8S-890 2.1L Turbo Diesel (Euro Spec, NOS crate engine) / Aisin AX5 Manual / AMC 20 Rear axle Cooling- Aluminum radiator Electrical/Ignition- Original Spec Suspension/Steering- Factory Metric Ton suspension Interior- Original light blue with blue dash bezel, bench seat Brakes- Stainless steel brake lines, Cherokee XJ proportion valve, Rear load sensing valve delete Lighting- Original Spec Exterior- Medium Blue Metallic with color matched flares and Chrome trim. Was previously resprayed at one point. Wheel & Tires- Original spec White 15in Jeep 8 hole steel wheel / Bridgestone 235/75 R15 tires Misc- Brahma camper shell, OEM Jeep dealership bed liner, aftermarket Kenwood radio from the 90's. Best MJ story- I got too many. One favorite is how I got this truck. Full story is in the build thread but I'll shorten it for now When I found this truck on Facebook, my dad and I both wanted to go get it. Come one weekend in March 2023, we loaded up and set off for Connecticut. The trip up took us two days but we did it. Once we had the diesel loaded up, we hauled it back home to Alabama in 2 days. CC is Awesome! Why? Vast amounts of information and lots of resourceful people. This is a really cool MJ. It is great that there is another diesel back on the road. Congrats, @ThreeComanches!

A similar wheel is reproduced though in various sizes. They might be able to found in 5x4.5. They’re Camaro IROC-Z replicas.

Looks to me like 3rd gen Camaro wheels. I believe they came on the Z/28 cars. They will require adapters to go on our Jeeps as the bolt pattern is 5x4.75.

And now it comes back apart. Time to get ready for paint.

My mother makes steaks in the sous vide. Its a pretty nice piece of equipment

Anybody cooking anything fun?

There are a few on here that have done new springs from GS. Seems the consensus is that it lifts about 3” I believe @watchamakalit is one of the people that has new springs.

Looking forward to you getting it home!

I doubt it would’ve sold well, but it sure would’ve been cool if they produced the ThunderChief.