89 MJ

I was going to say the same thing as Comanche SS. You can do the OBDI 91-95 HO swap, but I don’t think you’re gaining much over a Renix truck because the diagnostic tools don’t really exist for those either. At least for Renix, the REM exists. A 97+ swap gets you OBDII, but you’re still dealing with 25 year old parts. And in either case, you are rewiring most of the truck.

1 tube will probably get it done. Maybe get 2 just in case they’re all really dry. You know you’ve added enough when it starts coming out past the boots. Make sure you grease your driveshaft u joints too.

Welcome to the forum. I don’t know if you’ll be able to find a turkey LS for this. You’ll have to do a fair bit of other work. Why not keep the Renix 4.0? They can be dead reliable and easy to work on.

Holy cow! Those are really expensive.

I believe it’s 84-89 have windowed knuckles. 90-01 do not. Something about the windowed knuckles makes them fit bigger brakes.

Looks like a good one to drive when the weather is less than ideal. That is an awesome grille guard.

@boxyjeep has the solution right here:

Seems like the starter might not be disengaging quickly enough. What do you mean this happens under acceleration too? It could also be a cracked flex plate or the bolts for it have backed out if you have an automatic.

It is similar to a code reader for a modern engine. It allows you to monitor different sensors and make sure that they are working correctly and fix any issues.

My dad had it in his YJ. It was fine. Both my MJ and Eagle have the collar slid over so the axle is never disconnected. It’s just as, if not more, reliable, cheaper, and won’t negatively effect fuel economy.

That's a lot of switches. Looks good!

You are correct! Here’s the thread for anyone wondering:

It depends on how it was stored. If it was stored rolled up, it probably shrunk and you’d be better off with a new one. If it was stored the way it sits on a truck, it might be worth thinking about more. I think I’d probably go with the new one though.

How are the conditions of the threads on both the t-case and the plug? How tight do you have the plug?

Saw a post that Renix Engine Monitors by @NickInTimeFilms will be back in stock soon. If you have a Renix and don’t have one of these, they are super handy to have.

He’s probably got more than that invested. I’d sure hate to drive it in a headwind or crosswind.

I mistyped, I meant 33x10.50s

Going to lift it more? If not, you might get away with a 31x10.50. I say do it, but only because I want to do the same, I just don’t know if they’ll clear

Your best bet will probably be to call chrome shops and ship it to them to fix it.

You are correct, the 2.5L coolant reservoir is not pressurized. Because it isn’t pressurized, I wouldn’t say replacing the cap is top priority, but should get done sometime soon. I could see the water pump going bad. They typically leak out of the weep hole when this happens, but not always. You could also try grabbing the fan and wiggling it or rocking it forward and back to see if the bearings in the pump are junk. If it’s making noise, it sounds to me like it’s no good though. While you’re replacing that, might want to look at doing a coolant flush and using a rust removal product inside the block to make sure that’s all clean along with the installation of a new water pump. Similarly, the radiator could be getting plugged up. There is a slight chance that the addition of power steering contributed, but there is an underlying issue if adding power steering caused it. The addition of the power steering pump is making the engine work slightly harder. In a stock truck or even a slightly modified truck, you should be able to let go of the wheel at 80 mph regardless of bumps and not have any shimmy in the wheel.

Thank you!

Did that front diff sit in a swap or something?

Looks good!

No luck with that either. Probably will just need to post a screenshot or something.

That I do not know, but I would guess a harbor freight one is good enough. It depends on how long they’ve been without grease. I’d say that you’re probably in need of all new joints. The sway bar bushings and track bar joint definitely need replacing though.