eaglescout526

Has anyone ever used one of these? They come on every new slave cylinder and I have the old fashioned union fitting that I really am damn tired of using. If so does anyone have a link to what the quick connect that comes on our slave cylinders fit? I really don’t know what I’m looking for as this is new to me.

It’s all plug and play. You need to change the temp and oil pressure from a sensor. As long as it didn’t come from a ‘91 and newer or an ‘86 and down you are golden. You may need to adjust the tech depending on which engine you have.

Will do! I just had the metal sleeves pressed out today so we will see what happens.

Well I got something done that has been needing to be done for over a decade: These look beautiful. The upholstery shop that I gave these to did a marvelous job. They basically made me new visors. And all this for 50 dollars. I am pleased Side note #1, The slave cylinder failed me today. Time to bring Little Red down and get to work.(Done. Started at 18:00 and finished before 22:30.) Side note #2, Snagged a take off set of JK suspension from work. I saw the write up for them and I'm gonna make free work for me.

That’s what Chrysler was putting them there for. Many people complained about pump noise in the cabin on the XJ and that was the remedy for it. It’s also a quick bypass, not really a way to disable the vehicle unless someone knows what they are looking at.

That’s the fuel ballast resistor. It’s there to quiet the amount of noise the fuel pump produces. Most everyone here bypasses it unless you want original looks to your truck

Isn’t that Cruisers?

JBWeld it.

Did you steal that from Mitt Romney's family archive?

Looks like a parts basket-case

It’s just a patch kit. Not the whole shabang.

Lol. Just about everything I have painted and followed with clear coat is doing pretty well. The one that is the most noticeable is the upper trim above the grill. It’s holding pretty well. I use rustoleums automotive clear

You won’t have to entirely rewire. The original factory connectors come apart and you can use the connectors inside the plastic housing to connect to the terminals on the euramtec lights. But you’ll have to file or sand the B-pillar opening to fit the eurmatec lights.

Go to a dealership. They are always chucking boxes of every size imaginable.

Chrysler doesn’t show it in their catalogues but my best guess is it looks like a kit that hard wires the CPS to the ECU. All Chrysler has it labeled as is “KIT” and it was only for the ‘87/88 model years.

You could do it like that up and through the A-pillar and back to the middle of the cab roof

Pete is right. I had an idea to make the cargo light better but saw no way to stick a piece of metal in the housing to help it reflect. Plus it gets hot after some time of use. But I like it and am a sucker for factory parts.

It’s very well possible that there could be a few more lingering. I know there’s another part number that does the same job as that kit so I wonder why Chrysler has two kits that do the same thing. 4443965 was the other kit and it’s priced at $66 with brig still around at other dealers. I think about 17 of those exist if I’m remembering correctly.

It is hot wire switched with a ground wire going from the switch but that is only for the light on the switch itself. Behind the dash bezel should be 3(or 4) plugs where the fog light switch and other switches go, there should be a three prong switch like the fog light plug except it has pink wires. Pink plugs into a prong on the lens itself that sticks out and the ground is the two screws that attach and hold the light on to the roof. Since you have a ‘91 it very well may not be there. If you get a factory light, make sure you test it’s grounds first by using a 12v battery to make sure it works. It’s a lot easier to diagnose why it may not be working in the end if all the contacts are cleaned that way it can be narrowed down to the screws or the contact of the roof and screws.

Up until ‘90 there is a plug that is behind the drivers side B-pillar. It should be just a single pink wire(as long as no one has touched it). Shouldn’t have to add anything other than the switch and three holes. I just did this and it is worth it if you find a cargo light.

That one was the one on eBay right? And what I mean is there is one dealer in the US that has that part left and Chrysler asks $156 which is incredibly laughable that they were asking for that for just two model years that the part is for when there is a cheaper kit from Chrysler.

Hahahahahahahha. For $156 from Chrysler, I am not buying the last one in existence!

Graham cracker. I like it! It really fits with the truck.

Alright. Here’s a quick how to repaint your emblems back to how they left the factory. If your nameplate looks like this from the 30 years it has been in service then it’s time for a fresh repaint. here's what I went and did with this. I took the nameplate and cleaned it. Then I used flat black and spray painted the whole nameplate like this: I found this easier to do instead of masking off each letter to achieve a perfect paint all around and inside the letters. I let it dry after applying the paint for about and hour or so in the hot sun(for you states who don’t know what the sun looks like, let it set longer). After the paint is good and dry, I took a scotchbrite pad and just scrubbed the paint off of the letters to achieve the look of this: Follow up with a good coat of clear or two and you got yourself a new looking nameplate. I did try this on a few other nameplates before attempting the Comanche nameplate to be sure I’d achieve good results.

Basically. it’s a whole assembly.