ghetdjc320

Assuming you have adjustable uppers and lowers, just use the lowers and center the axle. Then use the uppers to set the caster angle.

Finished up one side today. The caliper and bracket do both require some flap disk work. You’ll need to take off about 1/8” of material off of the caliper and bracket. I’m using the late 99+ style unit bearings and only needed 1 washer on each caliper bracket to center them up. The washers were .10” on the dot. Test fit the turbines. I need some NOS center caps for these wheels. They are just too nice to clap on some old center caps. Also finished restoration on a rear prop valve. It’s going into a parts collection of top shelf parts for something in the future I suppose

I believe there was a member here that had made the cad drawings. Seems like dirt bound ended up with the blueprints but never moved forward with production iirc. Any reason you don’t wan to use the T&M plates? I have the front set and they have a decent fit.

Can’t tell for sure from the picture but it doesn’t look like they chewed through any copper correct? You could cut and splice the wiring. Pulling a pin out of that connector though is also not too difficult. I’d suggest some adhesive lined heat sink as well

The Dana 35 can be made to hold up well but there are specific mods that work and others that don’t. The nice thing about a Dana 35 is the low weight and the clearance you can get.

If your running 30” tires and have a non c clip Dana 35, I’d just keep it. It’s the best clearance you’ll have out of the above axle swap options not to mention the lightest in weight which does directly translate to handling. If you want a wider track, you can always invest on some small, quality wheel spacers. As for disk brakes, you could just do the ZJ brake swap but well adjusted drums have better stopping power than the ZJ/KJ/8.8 disks. Plus a better parking brake. Disks for sure have advantages but the stopping power of a 10” drum is not bad at all for these trucks with oem or slightly larger tires

Agreed. The outer circumference of the unit bearings needs to be shaved to fit the rotor but it’s not too bad. Several small parts you have to track down for the swap. It’s nice to use off the shelf components though. Easier to replace if needed while on the road.

Stock MJ is 60.5” KJ is 63” Ford 8.8 is 58.5. Other thing to consider as well is the actual size of the center section. The 8.8 has the largest center section out of the 3 and therefore the least amount of clearance.

I’ll be regearing my 8.25 to 3.55. Not pleased with that but because of the carrier break on the D30, V8 swap and running 31’s, 3.73’s just aren’t the right gears for me. Also touch to find a set of HP d30 3.73 gears. Easy to find a 3.55 set for the 8.25 though. Plus it will be nice to have all fresh bearings and seals on the pinion as well. Many KJ axles also use a driveshaft flange. Grab the adaptor from the donor driveshaft if possible. It’s an off the shelf spicer part as well. I’ll take a pic of the box if anyone needs it.

That’s them! Media blasted twice then buffed up with the flap disk and dremel. Coated with zinc based primer, cast iron engine paint and clear coat that’s used for wheels.

@Pete M is right. Just swapped an 8.25 from a KJ in. I have lots of pics in my build thread, page 8. Link is below. The rotors are 11 some inches. They easily clear all the 15” Jeep alloys. Double check the ratio when you get your 8.25. Mine was listed as a 3.55 and ended up being a 3.73.

Here is an idea of the size of the brakes. Honestly even puts the Wilwood la to shame. These are some huge brakes for an HP D30 with 31’s. But with all the extra power from the LS, steering and brakes are a priority.

Pic time. Been carrying these pre-90 knuckles all over the world for a future project. These will be running a big brake setup with dual piston calipers and 13” rotors. These barely fit under these turbines once clearancing the calipers slightly. Will be using these with my G2 1.25” wheel spacers which will match the back track exactly. All the reinforcements to the HP non disco housing are complete. Inner C’s, track bar, lower control arm skid and passenger side upper control arm reinforcement. I’ve used Artec inner C brackets in the past but the clearance with the coil springs is not good. These Barnes inner C brackets are a really nice design. In theory, they should actually provide better support for the inner c than traditional reinforcement designs. Took a pic of the off the shelf part number for the caliper bracket bolts you’ll need if doing this big brake swap with pre-90 D30 knuckles (YJ and XJ only, CJ 30’s aren’t compatible). If anyone needs part numbers for the whole swap let me know. Also clear coated the top sides of the ball joints so they don’t start rusting right away.

I had factory AC in my 91. I don’t see a traditional expansion valve in that pic. Are you referring to an orifice tube? If your installing new AC, why not just swap to all the components from an HO model XJ?

And front gears and locker complete:

Front axle being built. An important reminder that I had forgotten myself is that the factory had a set of different sized oil slingers to choose from. When I pulled the pinion, there were no shims to set depth, only preload. Turns out the oil slinger was .058” vs the one in my kit which was .030. Had to add .028 in shims to get the correct (or at least maintain factory install spec) pinion depth. Preload was non existent as the bearings were shot. Aimed for 20 in lbs of rotating torque.

Oh boy. Would be nice to have a 3rd for the collection

I was just wondering about you actually. We’ve missed your tech comments for sure! Glad to hear you’re ok

Do you want to pin out a stand alone harness directly to the JTEC connector housings?

The other wire is the fuel pump. Should be ground, sensor resistance, and fuel pump

Ready to start on the front

It’s a roller again! Took a few shots for reference as to how a KJ 8.25 fits under there. It’s a better width for the rear of an MJ than even the stock axle which always looked too narrow to me with the stock wheels. Really like how the springs turned out also. installed all new spring tip glider pads as well. For reference, I used grade 8 9/16x4.5” bolts for the shackles and 9/16x5” for the front leaf eyes. Nylock nuts and washers.

It seems we’ve hashed this out before a few times. In short, prices are going up. Given the demand and very limited supply, Comanche prices are headed higher. There may be a few selling cheap either because they don’t know what they have or they get nervous about being able to sell or it’s a rust bucket. But those are becoming the exception vs the norm. It’s generally a good thing for Comanche owners.

Those braces are more essential than the little bit of plate that would need to be removed.