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Now you just need to make one that’s U shaped for all those beat up gates out there

I’d like it to happen soon but just went through a huge move followed by a massive typhoon. Haven’t had power, water, or cell service for days. Food, water and fuel are top priorities atm. I’m running a battery backup to turn on my modem every 8 hours or so. But when things return back to normal this project will be back up and running.

Since @boxyjeep is making the speaker brackets, these would be very easy to reproduce. Make it from 18g stainless or galvanized. Only has a couple of simple bends.

Indeed I do but they are all packed away atm. There are some aftermarket ones that will fit (albeit not as good as oem). Search Amazon for a “74 bulb socket” unless you need oem

Picking up a JDM TJ Sahara tomorrow. Pretty neat find. 56k original miles and an absolutely pristine interior and undercarriage. Hardtop with a D44. Will post up more info later.

Holy thread resurrection! The 4Runner rears are close in width but many have the 6 lug patter depending on year. I might suggest just browsing your local junk yards and see what they have. Look under some of the foreign SUV’s in the 90’s. Many used some pretty tough axles (Isuzu trooper comes to mind). Several also had drop out 3rd members if that’s what you’re looking for.

MYUS is the one I use for smaller parts. They are in Florida so no state sales tax.

Use a shipping forwarder. They are all over the states and can ship to you lo problem.

Thanks! It’s all covered and stored away for now. 2024 will be the year of the Tomahawk Edit: correction, 2025 will be the year

Found the bag it came in:

Those were an Amazon find. I think I have an extra down in the shop I can snap a picture of the package for you

I will say, I tried running the motor directly from the battery with 12awg and it was no where near as quick as 18v. I would never run a motor that ran continuously (like the ac blower motor) on higher voltage but for window motors, nothing that I’ve tried comes close to the speed. In a perfect setup, I’d use both relays and the step up converter.

You could be shortening the life of the motor by perhaps 25-35%. But since it only runs occasionally, it really shouldn’t be an issue. Just make sure you aren’t binding on anything. I powered mine with a 18v battery while testing them all after install. Worked perfectly and the speed is better than most new cars.

If you’re sticking with 31” or smaller tires, stick with stock brakes and maybe some black magic pads. Some good centric rotors as well. You have the later style knuckles on that axle (90+ style with the brake pad “wings” and floating calipers). I’d recommend going with say a 97 for all your parts. Get new skf or timken unit bearings (had better results with SKF for some reason lately) and Centric calipers for the same year. If you want to go with an off the shelf brake pad, I’d recommend centric posi-quiets and follow the break in procedure to the T. Can’t overstate how critical that is. On another note, you’ve got quite a bit of rust there . I’d get under there with a chip brush and some POR15 or similar.

I’d start at the window track as well. There is no window relay system in the MJ so making sure you have good clean contacts is extra important. @Minuit had some insight into this as well iirc.

Well, project is going on hold again. Will be several months before picking this back up again. Probably next year around this time or maybe a bit later.

Yes they are. I didn’t see any standings on them though

Just got finished up with this modified cross member as well. Had to do a lot of cutting and welding to get this to a nice clean custom piece that fits the new tcase like a glove.

Thought I’d post up some info on these custom tailight housing @Dzimm made for me. They incorporate the newer sealed o ring style 1156 and 1157 sockets which are a lot easier to work with and seal much better than the stock ones. Also running an ARB air coupler outlet to the front bumper to inflate tires as needed.

Driveshaft lengths are off by about 2-2.5”. Had to also notch the crossmember and re-weld it shut as the np242 has a larger case

Looking good!

Lots more fab and custom work. For reference, I’m running the Dakota digital 128k ppm vss that screws on to the original long shaft speed sender. I have the Dakota converter box as well but really didn’t like the idea of using it as it doesn’t have the native resolution of the original sensor. I’ll use the LS ecu output to provide the stock speedo and tach signals. Also running a custom PDC. I have a bussed 6 relay kit along with a 10 position power distribution block. Running a Wix LS filter/regulator with all AN fittings. On another note, looks like I may be close to stock driveshaft lengths in the end

I did as well in my current build. Wasn’t even planning to use the original seat belts in mine. It was tough to spec out a sub that fit the air space but I still think it would be a great idea.

You hit the nail on the head there. Been watching these for a bit and here is my $.02: I made brackets like these a couple of years ago but the b pillar panels really shrouds the speaker. A larger simple grill with about a 1/2” rise to it would accommodate a full depth speaker. Second issue is trying to dampen the rear of any installed speaker. The front of the speaker should ideally be isolated from the rear of the speaker. This would involve an even larger bracket that could provide a bit of a baffle. Getting the speaker out closer to the b pillar plastic though would be best along with a simple grill. Would be easy to fab like a 6x6 grill from 1/2” mdf and throw on some speaker cloth material. Remove the existing plastic grill and open up the opening a bit more. It won’t be factory but it would be a clean install and provide better sound.