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A 2wd ax15 would do nicely. As for cross referencing other vehicles, early dodge dakotas used the ax15. The Toyota R151 is very closely related but has the wrong input shaft.

Have you had some time to peruse the build threads on here? I know I’ve gathered a great deal of inspiration for builds from others’ work.

https://por15.com/pages/faqs

Por15 silver is your friend. Mask off the back side of the holes first.

The Mopar opda units are known to be defective. The crown opda is the upgraded version.

If you want to go 4” lift, you’ll need to consider your brakes, steering and suspension geometry. But if a 2” lifted Hilux struggles, an MJ on 32’s won’t do much better. For your commute I’d look more into traction aids (lockers) and a good front bumper.

Lots of good parts on that for the price

I ended up using the door portions of the weatherstripping but went with some nos Mopar seals for the cab opening. Perfect fit and worth tracking down.

Bashing on our mopars again

They should both be 44’s with e-lockers. Should be HD44’s with 8.9” ring gears also. Not bad axles but not a straight swap by any means. Different bolt patter at the wheels, different width and none of the bracketry will fill the MJ. I’m no pricing expert but I’d be looking maybe in the 1k range for both if they were in good shape. I wouldn’t want them if they had been running 37’s though. Not that they can’t handle them but it’s far more likely that someone had been abusing them.

X3 to the above.

BDS, Zone and Fox are all related companies. I’ve had good success with Zone and BDS and have run both. Anything over about the 2.5-3” mark is where you are going to need to start looking at many other factors, steering geometry, brakes, adjustable control arms, track bars etc. a simple puck and shackle lift along with some decent shocks and 31’s is a very good route

Find any leaks first. There is always a leaking seam somewhere as the factory’s way of sealing was to slop on some single part brushable seam sealer on the BACK side of those spot welded seams effectively trapping the moisture within the seam and causing it to rust. And there are a great many panel seams on that floor. Personally I wouldn’t choose a floor material because it works best with a leaking cab, I’d 100% fix the leaks first so I can use the floor material I want to use. The materials that would only exacerbate a leaking cab/floor issue would be vinyl, butyl, Dynamat or any other type of impermeable material. If you have floor leaks, those materials will only make matters worse.

Does it slip while in 4high? Does it slip in 4low? Have you tried popping the clutch to see if it will slip?

3/4” Dynapad. Works great. Just whatever you do, don’t go with the mass backing from ACC. The heat from the floor will make that stuff constantly outages and begin crumbling over time. Regular carpet jute works well too

You could probably rent a decent compressor for a day or two. For a trail rig I’d go single stage urethane vs base/clear. Use 2-part epoxy primer on bare metal before doing any filler work. Then shoot the same 2k primer reduced a bit as a sealer to seal all your body work and layers of previous finish.

Before going down this path I have to ask, do you have a good size compressor (flowing about 13cfm at 45psi), a sealed garage and or some place to use as a temporary paint booth, an hvlp sprayer with 1.8-1.4 fluid tips, DA sanders, sanding blocks, respirator? There are so many different levels of paint jobs depending on what equipment you have on hand. You can get good results with enough effort but we kind of need to know where you’re at equipment wise to recommend the right process. Otherwise one might spend a lot of coin on good products but without the proper equipment to apply it, you may end up wasting it. As for rusty areas, you do need to get that down to clean bare metal. Once that’s done, use 2 part epoxy primer (available in spray cans from some auto paint suppliers). If you have an hvlp speayer, you can spray the mixed epoxy primer with a 1.8 tip. Spray the epoxy directly to bare metal before doing any filler work. Once filler work is done and you have it all blocked and smooth, spray a reduced 2 part epoxy primer as a sealer to create a uniform color for your base coat. Take your time prepping and masking off all your surfaces. Use actual automotive masking tape and not hardware store home painters tape. I normally start with 120 to 180 and work my way up to 400 for the final sanding pre-primer.

This stuff was about the right consistency for the dash foam: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000213391/ To the OP: Looks nice! Never seen one done in bondo before but we used plenty of bondo while making custom sub enclosures so don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Let us know how it holds up.

As i mentioned, it’s difficult to square the seal to the axle shaft and easy to damage it in the process as there is no machined lip on the passenger side of the pumpkin in a cad housing for the seal to ride against. The seals-it and oem single piece seal automatically square themselves. It can still use the same seal surface on the axle shaft but adds a second seal to a smooth clean area of the axle shaft. The reason it’s a pain to get to is because is because you have to drop the carrier. The seals is is just less likely to leak. Here are pictures of the differences between the 3 seals, skf 11800, oem seal for dana 30 single piece and the seals it. The oem design is great as it guides the axle centered into the seal but won’t fit into the cad axle. I wouldn’t use a seals it seal in a one piece axle housing but in cad housings it’s a nice option. Whatever works

Por15 and raptor liner are good combos. Some brishable seam sealer is also your friend on the joints. Just triple check for any possible water leaks before dynamatting. Otherwise the butyl traps the water onto the metal and it’s not a pretty sight

For pinholes in floor boards, once you get rid of any loose rust and scale, clean it up thoroughly and degrease. Place some masking tape on the back side of the pinholes (tape will go underneath the truck on the floor board), then apply por15 black and, if you have larger pin holes or pitted metal and want a nice finish, apply por15 silver which has lead filler in it. I’ve used plenty of 3m panel bond. For the most part all I use are 3m, Evercoat and Akzo Nobel products. 3m for all the sealants, adhesives and pillar foams. The absolute best thing you can do for your floor pans is use 3m panel bond AND spot weld in strategic areas. As with anything proper prep is key. Read the TDS and follow it to the letter. I would recommend panel bonding the whole perimeter (overlap the existing floor by 3/4” all the way around) and the subframe making sure every area is clamped as mentioned above. I’d also panel bond the floor bracing in the cab but I’d also spot weld the subframe inner cab floor bracing. The adhesive is top notch but the spot welds will increase the rigidity of the seams since a single spot weld will essentially fuse layers of metal together and has more shear straight compared to just panel bonding. Many cars today use panel bonding and it works excellent but they typically will bead roll their seems for rigidity before applying the adhesive if spot welds are not involved. Panel bond is a great way to create water tight structural bonds, spot welding makes it even better

Yes it does, though technically it can be installed anywhere along the tube as it only relies on the ID of the tube and OD of the axle shaft. It’s a 2 minute install and they never leak. The traditional seal is such a pain to get to if it leaks.

That is cringe worthy, hoping he makes a full recovery

The plate in the door is held in with some metal tabs. You can bend the tabs open typically by hand and remove that piece for a bench repair.

I will say, every one of those that I’ve opened had a little metal “diaphragm” gasket looking thing near the base that clogs rather easily.