ghetdjc320

What lift height are you running?

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Drum brakes require less pressure before locking. The whole purpose of a prop valve it to correctly distribute the pressure to keep the rear from locking before the front. On a truck, it makes sense to have a varying or adjustable prop valve as the bed weight will always be a rather large variable. The ZJ valve for a 4 wheel disk setup will allow a higher pressure pass through for rear disks. There are also many more factors at play with a hydraulic braking system.

I’m curious as well

No XJ rear disks at least none that I know of. ZJ had rear disk options.

Notch flares on the way. It’s officially an LCG build. Plan is 33’s or maybe 34’s on the 3” BDS lift. Time to measure every component to the T so it all fits as intended. I’ll post up pics on the notch flares install as well. There are very few pics of the install on the bed of an MJ. I will not separate the inner and outer wheel well housing though. That opens up a whole can of worms. I’ll trim it nice and tight but keep the integrity of that body seam. Front fenders I don’t really care about hacking up but I’m switching to the 97+ front clip . Alao reached out to Corbeau and ordered some matching upholstery for my trailcat’s to do the door panels with. Have to think ahead about audio setup as well since they will be custom made. IMO, the best scenario is to build some kind of enclosure in the B pillars to accommodate a 6.5” sub (like the little JL W3). If I could manage to accomplish that, I’d run a nice morel or similar 3 way system up front with some 6.5’s or larger main woofer along with mids and highs properly positioned. Also need to measure for driveshafts and order that “Dirty Dingo” AC kit for the ls. I considered going with the new Holley mid-mount accessory drive but after seeing how @USN_JeepMJ and @Limeyjeeper managed to install their steering reservoirs and keep a stock style PS pump using a smaller intake tubing, I’d decided to go that route. Also considering the psc big bore box as I had one previously in my YJ and it’s a great box for filling the gap between a stock box and hydro assist.

So long as you get one that matches your braking setup (disk front drum rear unless you swapped to rear disks) you should be good

Much appreciated . I try to post a ton of pics of the smaller detail items as I’ve found it’s always the one thing I skipped or overlooked that comes back to bite. So for the next chapter of this build. I have about 11 weeks to get things as far along as I can this go around. I have a set of Revolution 4.56 gears and install kits waiting to go in. The “original” aspects of the build are becoming fewer and fewer. The nos turbines i ended up selling so I have a clean slate to move forward on. My previous choices on steering gear box, and fender flares may need to be reconsidered. I’m still on the fence regarding notch flares. If I go that route, 33-34’s are in the sights on this otherwise LCG build. I did decide on some wheels though which should help things a bit. After reading through @USN_JeepMJ’s build, I love those JL wheels and am ordering some up. Will use BORA wheel adapter that will give me the M14-1.5 stud for the wheels to use JL lug nuts as specified. I have to say, I really appreciate everyone posting the tidbits of details from there builds especially issues they’ve had as there are so many takeaways and lessons from those who have gone before. So here are the Mopar accessory wheels for the JL/JT. 17x8.5 with a 71.5mm center bore. 5.22” backspacing. With the BORA adapters, they are also custom made in the USA and are available in 1mm increments for thickness. The starting size is 19mm (3/4”). Going to do a lot of measuring to get the exact stance I’m looking for.

That’s right. I’m running pre 90 knuckles with late model XJ HP30. I’m using 14’ GC calipers and brackets on 04’ Explorer rotors. I’m also interested in going to a 13” rotor. It’s a tricky part of my built atm as I try to sort wheel size, backspacing, brakes and steering. I’m running a KJ 8.25 rear with disks which is 63” wms. The track width is great in back as it fills out the wheel wells much nicer. Currently I have 1.25 spacers for the front to match the overall wms of the back but not sure if I’ll keep it that way. Looking for some wheels with the right bolt pattern and backspacing (around 5”). The tire debate is endless as well. Trying to go with at least metric 32’s but 33’s are a possibility if I go notch flares… too many options

Good to know. I’m curious if we could use WJ hubs directly on XJ/Mj knuckles for the 5x5 pattern with appropriately drilled/sourced rotors without swapping to the other WJ components. I’m running a big brake kit at the moment with wk2 calipers. I need to see if I can find someone a the parts store that will let me measure some different options.

@75sv1 just a quick recap, I’m looking at running 5x5 pattern on my HP30. Did you use WJ hubs with the 1/4” spacer on XJ knuckles? If so, what rotors did you use?

It’s also possible that you’re leaking from failed seam sealer or a rusted body seam. There is a vertical body seam under each lower corner of the rear window that will likely be hiding a good deal of rust if the window has been leaking. Personally, I haven’t seen the urtheane itself fail but rather the surface that the urethane adheres to.

If you’re running HO fuel injection, you will eventually start to have it dying when coming to a stop if your vss isn’t sending a signal to the ecu.

Doesn’t sound cheap but it does sound fun

The fork moves on a single rail. How would you propose splitting that into two and what would be the purpose of that?

Or if you want some of the best: https://www.recaro-automotive.com/us/comfort/recaro-orthoped

If there is someplace you can try to sit in them that will make all the difference

PRP seats are another good option. I’m running the trailcats but there are also the Moab’s which don’t have the harness pass through. Many who run the trailcat style seats also just use oem seat belts. The trailcat is a nice fit and finish in a Comanche imo. The xrs are super comfortable also but a bit bulky for the cab of a small truck.

Same situation here. In my 91 they only worked with the headlight on and in low beam. Same goes for my TJ with factory fogs

It would just be going to Arkansas actually. Will be back there working on my project for a bit. I could use the fenders, header and grill, and maybe the washer bottle as well along with whatever brackets accompany them

Color doesn’t matter. Any chance you have the fenders also?

Good to know. I wasn’t planning to install it with the nutserts but was going to panel bond and weld it on. I do have the heavy duty nutsert tool though from doing corner armor on my YJ. Was going to see if I can order a set and forgo the “Ares” logo if possible.

Still looking if anyone has anything available lmk

I used to run 6” of lift in front and soa rear. Could easily clear 35’s but ran metric 33’s mostly. I’ve always wanted to do a true LCG MJ build. Not something hacked to pieces but something that looks like it could have been factory. I think tire selection will be crucial as a typical 35x12.5 would be an exceptionally tight fit for an LCG setup. Will be updating my build thread with details of what I was able to make work to get it just right