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Does your canister not have the replaceable filter on the bottom? I’ve replaced several in the 4.0 canisters but maybe they’re different.

A few small updates. Sourced some original grizzly wheels and am going to repaint the whole rig and get the hardtop back to original color. New carpet on the way also. This thing is just cherry. Starts up every time, runs so smoothly and quietly, zero steering or suspension issues and zero rust underneath. Just swapped in some new infinity speakers the other day in the factory locations and have been slowly removing some aftermarket navigation system that was added in Japan. Pic for what I expect the end result will be. Also shot a picture of the build label. Anyone here able to decode it? @fiatslug87 @eaglescout526

You can use the Chevy pattern with Waggy parts. That will give you 6x5.5. You can run the Wilwood D52’s: https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/BrakeKitListFront?mincatdesc=D52 Front Caliper Kit I ran those calipers on hydroboost with Waggy rotors and warn hubs. The braking power was exceptional and effortless. Awesome for wheeling.

Let the shipper know. They will probably want it back. Probably got mixed up with someone else’s order

I second the Chevy 6 bolt. Same pattern as Waggy. Lots of brake options as mentioned including Wilwood setups. Plenty of hub options as well.

So do you want a taller, lower or more angled seat? I like as much knee support as possible but find that typically comes from raising the front of the seat a bit to provide thigh support. But if you want to keep your leg straight without bending the knee you’ll need to sit lower and further back. Once you know what kind of ergonomics you need, the appropriate mod will reveal itself

It does . The medium sized “game board” box iirc. Flat rate boxes have been our friends here for many years now.

Here is what I could find. Not much but hopefully the other angles will help. I live the turbine wheels but which there were also some good quality caps to go along. All the ones I could find were in rough shape.

Didn’t notice the PM but I just saw this post. I’m not making any at the moment, took down the thread as well. I may again in the future but couldn’t say when

Here is a NOS turbine. I think I have a few other pics as well I’ll try to dig up.

Here you go:

Been down this road before myself. You’ll need a competent exhaust shop. No need for mandrel bends. Just have them run a 2.25 or 2.5 all the way and use all the oem hangers ancluding the one on the crossmember. Grab a stainless spun magnaflownuniversal cat with heat shield and whatever muffler you prefer. I hated the fuel smell running catless. It was exhausting . I’ve also had a few strokers. Always been a letdown for me too. The 4.0 is a good jeep engine that I’ve learned to appreciate mostly in its stock form.

Will do!

I ran Spandano rockers on my old MJ. Worked well and you couldn’t tell it wasn’t factory. The continuous stretch of 2x5 should work well if you can tie it into the cab factory supports nicely. As for being able to switch back, it’s really not that hard to do. I had to undo PO’s mods or damage that were far more invasive. Key parts should have cab corners soon if you ever decided to switch it back.

Getting close to picking up this project again. Planning to pull the engine again and adding notch flares and ares bedside armor. Anyone ever used the ares armor? Here is what I was looking at: http://aresfabrication.com/shop/mj-bed-armor/

Wow, that’s only 50 minutes away from my MJ… I see 97+ fenders and some leather XJ upholstery there also.

I never had any issues with turbines fitting rear disks. But I was using the Black Magic kit. He uses Centric calipers. If there is any fitment issues, the tinniest bit of flap disking will solve it. I stuffed 13.25 Mustang rotors and grand Cherokee twin piston calipers inside a turbine with a 1.25 spacer and some caliper bracket clearancing. The tiny little oem disks will be far easier to fit

Check for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure

Shoot us some under the hood pictures as identifying the block doesn’t always corelate with identifying the efi/chassis wiring. Also shoot over some pics of the splices you found

You can mix the leaves in the packs to even them out.

Why not just pull out your harness and start cleaning it up? I swapped in a painless 23 circuit harness but it took plenty of custom work. A wanted ad here in the classifieds will likely have good success also. There also those FB Comanche parts groups that will likely have some as well. What year, engine and tranny do you have?

I would suggest that you discard whatever throw out bearing comes with any clutch kit and get a high quality timken/national/Koyo unit. It’s just the Luk pressure plate and clutch disk that have been good for the price

Looks good! You should have a bit more spring rate and free arch. But thin leaves like that won’t make much difference in ride quality.

Luk rep-set has been a go to for some time now. Good price and quality