ghetdjc320

I do like the CAD housings though. That upper control arm mount cast into the cad housing was awesome. The thin sheet metal bracket they added to the passenger side in later years was junk.

X2. Go with the method listed above, simple and effective. And it’s the spider gears that spin internally. Locking the passenger side will cause your driveshaft to spin all the time but you will likely never notice it or any MPG changes

This may not look like much but this was a lot of electrical work progress . Finished the refurbished e-brake install and the tail lights wiring from the fuse block to the bed. Integrated the air line for the locker along with the amplifier wiring. Also routed the overhead console wiring. The console itself has just been professionally rebuild and the circuit boards have been conformal coated now which should last a long time. I have wiring for a 3rd brake light and would like to add one but have a nice cargo lamp I was going to install. @Limeyjeeper You used a ranger 3rd brake light correct?

I didn’t measure it exactly but the front section of the hole is about 1.5” forward from the original cutout. I’m going to use a universal inner shift boot and mount it on a custom shaped aluminum plate that I’ll secure to the trans cover.

Modified trans tunnel cover, rebuilt tcase shifter. All sealed with “right stuff” and stainless fasteners used. Added copper antiseize to all original machine-thread bolts as I’ve had to fight them far too often when they get rust-welded

Agreed. I have an extra drivers side fender that was unusable I can try on. They actually seem pretty straightforward compared to doin say a new sheet metal panel.

Went to mouser and started filtering till I found it. They have a visual search there that is easy to use. Much easier to find these 14 pin connectors than say a 2 or 4 pin one though

Found it! Aptiv part 10763414. These are Aptiv/Delphi Apex 2.8 series connectors.

The odd thing with the flares is that you don’t get any sort of template. It’s obvious that the placement of the bolts is not an exact science for Notch. You just have to eyeball everything then mark and drill. And if you’re off by a bit, just make the holes bigger with a unibit and use the huge washers provided .

Considering how rough this thing started out I have no problem doing just that

Couple of things to clear up, the 231J’s all have the same clocking. The difference is in the transmission tailhousing not the tcase. As for the Speedo provision, pretty much any jeep np231 will have the Speedo provision you need. There are different speed senders over the years but they all fit the same Speedo hole in the case. Same goes for linkage. Your variable is the type of tail housing as some have an accordion style rubber and some gave a fixed metal tail one with seal for the slip yoke and also the spline count. You’ll need a 23 spline input which are super common anyway. No need to hunt down a specific serial number case.

For some of you wiring gurus out there, I’m trying to find the female plug that goes into this 97+ XJ grill lighting harness. Trying to integrate a factory connector here using my painless harness. The numbers inside the connector are: 52772 B6

Some more mock ups and test fitting. Also had to modify the trans shifter cover. The wheels here are just sitting about an inch from the rotor mounting surface. Flares will still be coming in another 1/2-3/4”. Wanted to get the tires mounted first so I knew the exact stance I was after. Ended up with a 20mm rear adapter and 27mm front adapter which will be custom made. Rear tires will be almost flush with flares but will tuck in about 1/4”.

No major updates but ordered up SKF bearings and seals for the NP242 along with an oem 6 pinion planetary and Tom woods SYE. Should be one solid transfer case. Also got some Eastwood inner frame coating to do the frame rails with.

Gotcha, there is no rated torque handling differences between the R151 and AX15. The R154 I suspect is the same in regards to torque handling but on a lightweight Supra making power at higher RPM’s it’s likely adequate.

Yeah Marlin can probably answer that as it’s more of a Toyota tech question. The AX15 is basically an R151 and similar to the rest of the R series but not identical. Out of curiosity, why would you want to put an ax15 bellhousing on an r series tranny?

The tail housing is not hard to drill at all (with a jig and out of the truck) but a clocking ring will work just fine too. Plenty of spline engagement still on the tcase. That way you can clock it wherever it needs to be. The 241 is slightly bigger and it does use an electronic VSS with no provision for a mechanical speedo on the output. The 242 is even larger and will fit under an MJ with some very slight mods. 241OR also has a different driveshaft coupler but can be simply adapted. The length difference of the tranny doesn’t necessitate a driveshaft change for most installs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303597948710

What questions do you have? There is a huge knowledge base of people here who aren’t trying to sell you anything

It is paint not bedliner

The R154 was in Supra's for certain years in the usdm. Many more years in the JDM. The AX15 will not hold that much torque though with spirited driving. There are many factors here like vehicle weight, axle ratio, and driving style. The NV3550 that later replaced the AX15 for a time was rated at 300lbft of torque with a gross vehicle weight of just over 7k pounds. The AX15 was not officially rated on torque but new units have been advertised as capable of 385lbft with no listed GVW. That torque number likely holds true for all the AX15 years. There are new AX15s available from a few different suppliers. Advance adapters and Novak both offer to drill the tail housing to clock the tcase down a bit for XJ/MJ applications. Rockland standard gear also offers the “terminator” ax15, but it’s just a regular new ax15. All these companies advertise there units have the “latest revisions”. In my research, this has just been the 5th gear update which updates the synchro hub. That is not a strength upgrade just a functional upgrade. Marlin crawler will do a quality rebuild with all the upgraded parts for around 1900. My concern with rebuilds has always been the quality of the bearings and synchros used in these kits. Lots of low quality hardware in the off the shelf kits. You can source some quality bearings separately though. I had an ax15 rebuilt (not by Marlin) with a crown kit. Lasted all of maybe 12 months with many issues behind a jeep stroker in a YJ. Second unit was just a used ax15 with 140k miles and it worked flawlessly. So i’d trust oem components more than any of those kits. My current AX15 was original to my 90 MJ. I rebuilt the shifter, installed the newer style input shaft bearing plate for the external slave setup, and replaced the tail seal. Flushed with redline mt90 and refilled. That’s what’s in my LS swapped MJ now. I’m really not concerned about it holding up. If it does die at some point, I’ll rebuilt it with quality Japan made bearings and seals (since it’s a Japanese tranny) and add some upgraded parts from Marlin for the R151.

Very true, I spent many days stripping off old bedliner from both my MJ’s. And that was just the cheap rattle can stuff. That LJ looks great!

I’d also repeat same as above: don’t bedline the outside. Do you have any rust or body damage to repair?

Actually kinda hard to find 89 and older knuckles. Can you measure the hole size and also see if it has a taper or is straight through? If all else fails, you can get the 90+ knuckles but will hav to swap over all the brakes as well.

Are you talking TJ rubicon or JK rubicon?

https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/chromoly-r-series-thrust-washer-kit/ https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/r-series-heavy-duty-bearing-retainer/