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If the knuckles are not reamed, consider the Currie CE-9701 kit. It’s a kit for stock Jeep size tapers but is a super strong kit

If those are GM 1tin TRE’s then just get an ES2233L. That kit looks a lot like the JCR kit but there are many copies and manufacturers making similar kits. Here is a link for all the replacement TRE’s if they are indeed the GM 1 tons. https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/1TS-TRE-KIT.html

First off, the previous posts are valid comments that provide some good insight to help you decide what to do. Here is some further reading that may help answer some questions:

I can’t tell for sure but that looks like those may be GM 1 ton tie rod ends in which case the knuckles and pitman arm would have been reamed out to fit them. If they are the GM 1 tons, pretty much any auto parts store will have those parts on the shelf. ES2234L is the passenger side moog part number. It should cross reference at the parts store. If it’s not a 1 ton end then it should just be a standard Jeep end but obviously that steering configuration is not stock for an MJ. If the GM one doesn’t fit check out a passenger tie rod end for an 88 Jeep YJ (just a random year that should have a separate tie rod end that isn’t integral to the drag link)

Was able to shoot some pictures of the nighttime illumination using a white LED. With a standard incandescent “74” bulb the glow is the factory greenish color that matches most other items on the dash. the white led provides plenty of illumination but will look blue on the lettering due to the oem color filters.

Did the tie rod end just fall out of the steering knuckle? Missing a cotter pin?

I’d be up for that! That way members will be active when I post lol. About 4pm my time comanche club goes silent.

I used to use an eBay harness before swapping to HID’s the male headlight adapter connector always had pins coming loose. The wiring was significantly undersized as well. The amount of insulation on those wires makes them seem 14awg but the actual copper was right at 18awg. The included relays were not meant to handle the constant on duty either and had to be replaced in short order. I’d just build my own harness with some quality sealed motorcycle style relays and quality wire and connectors. I’d also do a 30/40 amp relay setup vs the 30/30 setups they normally come with.

Any ideas on this connector for my tail lights on my 91? Doesn’t seem to be what I’ve seen on here.

If either of those the relays are failing intermittently that could cause the issue. Other issue could be the ecu connector. You can try removing it, cleaning it all out and reinstalling. The ASD circuit basically feeds power to the injectors and coil so the ecu can control the ground side pulse.

Have you tried replacing the ASD relay in the power distribution center. Or fuel pump relay also?

Sounds good. Just shoot me a PM before you send anything so I can make sure you have minimal down time

First batch of two completed.

I would need an original to do that with but yes it’s possible.

Anytime!

One of these units coupled with a restored oem radio from @Minuit a fan plug from @schardein and maybe some new switch bezels and your factory dash will be factory new and optioned out.

Here is the first completed panel: @Rubikahn and @GrandComanche You guys have first dibs I’m going to set aside a couple for myself at some point as well. Controls are smooth as butter. The illumination back panel reflectors are hand polished. I tested these with both LED and incandescent “74” style bulbs. Both work very well but I would recommend an LED with a slightly orange glow. That way you get the correct color match to your other accessories but more brightness.

Electronics all disassembled and degreased. Housings were acid stripped to bare metal. All contacts will get a nice polish for the best conductivity before reassembly.

They are fully illuminated yes. I’ll some pictures of the nighttime illumination in the next day or two.

PM coming your way

The factory Indak fan motor switches are being meticulously restored. All previous grease and oxidation is removed, the contact rivets are tightened, pcb boards cleaned, housings stripped and refinished. They are absolutely awesome! Here are some restored panel bezels as well. These have 3 additional coats of the matte factory style finish for extra protection. Buttons are being restored as well including the white striping

By the way, while changing the panel, be sure to inspect and/or swap your fan blower plug. @schardein carries some new plugs and pigtails

Alright, progress has been made at last! I have several panels all stripped down as well as a supply of restored parts and pieces. I have also collected a supply of new fan switches when the original Indak switch is no longer rebuildable. These panels function as new and are completely restored using as many if not all original parts. I will have a couple available by the end of the week but have several more in the works. A complete restored panel is $150 which includes a $25 refundable core charge. If you would like to have your original model restored that service is $125. I take a painstaking amount of time trying to save all the original pieces for these units but on occasion I will use a few small replacement parts such as springs, e clips, screws, contacts etc. Will post some pics of restored units in a few days.