DesertRat1991

FYI, at some point Krustyballer changed the design of his hitch. The plate on top of the receiver has been narrowed so it no longer bridges the holes in the OEM bumper so you can't bolt them together as Draw-tite intended. This makes it difficult to compare the capacity of a KB hitch to the Draw-tite design. Based on the pics in his vendor thread, his early designs seem to be near exact reproductions of the Draw-tite hitch. The one I got a few weeks ago was not. It's quite strange really... of all the places to shave pennies, you'd think deleting tie-in points for 1/2" diameter fasteners would be waaaay down near the bottom of the list. Go figure. Otherwise, the build quality was excellent.

That's a good start. As far as road worthiness is concerned, we should also point out that your front sway bar links are missing which can be a dangerous situation on the street. Be careful. You'll need to take some measurements to find a set that work with your lift.

Dana 30 Front Chrysler 8.25 Rear from an XJ You have a Bubba-fied spring over conversion. Your OEM Comanche spring plates are flipped to work with the XJ perches. Also, the overload leaf appears to have been removed from your leaf packs.

Replacing the inner axle tube seals isn't very difficult. To remove the seal, I cupped a 36mm socket over the end of a long broomstick and used the flat (back side) of the socket to knock the seal out. To drive them in, use the same 36mm, this time on the end of 3ft worth of ratchet extensions. The front (open side) of the 36mm socket seats perfectly in the indentation on the front side of the seal so it works really well for tapping them into place. My advice to anyone servicing their axles would be to add these PDFs to your document library: http://drivetrain.estoreseller.com/DanaCatalogs/x510-9.pdf http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Dana_light_axle_service_manual.pdf I had a hard time sorting through the internet chatter to find the right seal for my axle -- the first PDF solved that problem. It's the Dana Spicer parts catalog which contains part numbers and diagrams for all Jeep axles 1978 - 1998. The good stuff starts on page 281 with the Dana 30 non-cad axle. Dana 30 CAD is on page 309. All the rear axles are in there too. For future reference, Spicer 46470 fit perfectly in the '91 non-cad Dana 30 axle. The second PDF is useful because it has Spicer's recommended torque specs for various things.

What are some of the advantages of going this route vs class C? At first glance, that rig doesn't look to be the best tool for any of it's intended applications. Doesn't really seem much cheaper than Class C either. How big of a boat are you pulling?

Looks good on that color truck. Sort of M35 looking...

So thats how the bottle jack mounts... interesting. Mine is just rolling around back there. Never had a carpet panel and that strap is apparently long gone. I think there's some kind of mounting brackets that hold the carpet panel in place. No clue what they look like or how they mount up.

I can't wait for the first Hellcrate Comanche to show up...! Hell-Manche?

- A/C install on a non-AC truck - Cruise control install - How to build that carpet panel that's supposed to go behind the seat. Can find any good shots of how the OEM panel mounts.

Mega score on that roll bar! And yah, without a winter protection regiment your truck won't be rust free for long. Break out the polishing pads and work on building up a protective layer of wax to protect the paint and help the road grime rinse off. For the underbody, maybe give these guys a call and see if there are any authorized Fluid Film shops in your area: http://www.kellsportproducts.com/canada.html

Honestly, given the tire size you want to run, and the fact that you really just want to level the truck... My advice would be to take the $500 and buy a set of 1.75" pucks for the front (RE1334) and upgrade yourself to 4 reputable gas shocks ($200-300). Forget the no-name hydros. Good shocks are an OK area to splurge because they probably have the biggest impact on your perceived ride quality. Don't do anything to the rear springs. It's a good idea to measure your current rake before dishing out for the pucks, but I'd wager 1.75" should get you close without going over. Personally, I like a bit of rake. Tighten up your front suspension with stock replacement upper/lower control arms (MOOG CK620244 / CK660203) and front axle bushings (MOOG K3131). Price them out on RockAuto. I bet you could get all this done with cash to spare.

Don't you also have to take a cutting wheel to your LCA buckets to keep them from binding up when flexed? Deal breaker.

I grabbed a new plug off Amazon when I serviced the diff. Slowly trying to replace all old rubber bits. Check out the pics, you can see it's just a barbed rubber plug. Pop it out. If it's old and brittle, yes it might tear. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q0DAXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516047931&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dana+35+drain+plug

So I understand that the harness would need to be upgraded but can the stock headlight housings handle the heat from a 80/100w bulb? Or do the housing need to be upgraded to?

Early 90's Dodge Dakota lights look very similar to ours but don't quite fit. Apparently, you can also get Cherokee tails to fit with enough blood, sweat, and fiberglass work:

There are a handful of options that LOOK close, but all require some fabrication to make them work. Rusty's Offroad makes a steel housing that isn't cheap: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-metal-tail-light-housings-pair-mj-commanche.html

Oh my. The clamp on the battery cable wrapped in electrical tape doesn't even have a nut on it... and that's the better of the two cables!

Honestly, a Sami sounds like what you're looking for. But, thinking out side the box, you could chop the top off an old AWD Subaru and basically make a home-made Baja. Slap some A/T tires on that heap and you'll be in the woods turning heads. https://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/pts/d/2002-subaru-25-ej25-runs-450/6427598286.html

Got my krustyballer hitch mounted. Did 22mi offroad through the Santa Rita mountains. Then washed it.

What strikes me is the irregularity of the stumbling and the amount of RPMS you lose with each stumble. It's like you have an intermittent voltage dip. Considering everything else you've already replaced, I'd be looking at the ignition coil and ground connections next. Have you tried monitoring your alternator output while stumbling? Even though you don't have a Renix MJ, there is still a lot of useful guidance to be gleaned from Cruiser's tips for inspecting the ground connections, ICU, and relays: http://cruiser54.com/?p=19 http://cruiser54.com/?p=41 http://cruiser54.com/?p=35

My eyes see 12, 35, 55. 12: Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles. 35: An open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan relay circuit. 55: Completion of diagnostic trouble code display on the malfunction indicator lamp (check engine lamp).

One main advantage of SUA is that helps lower the COG of the vehicle. A low COG is useful offroad and when using your MJ to do truck stuff (i.e. hauling). For a vehicle designed to support up to a metric ton over the rear end, the engineers probably figured it was a good idea to keep the COG as low as possible.

Good luck guys. Hope it pans out.

Had an interesting chat with the guys at J&W Jeep earlier this week. I originally called to check up on some cruise control parts but got side tracked talking about other stuff. Anyway, the parts guy checked his computer and said he has TWO new old stock, OEM, Fuel Sending Units for the 91-92 Comanche sitting on the shelf. I asked about the part number and he confirmed P/N 4637184, which should be correct for the HO models. Then I said something like "Are you certain these are Comanche FSUs? Because these are frequently mixed up with Cherokee FSUs which are not interchangeable." His response was "We are a JEEP only salvage yard. We've been doing this for over 30 years. We know the difference between Cherokee parts and Comanche parts." Point being, he seemed pretty darn certain. He quoted $175 plus shipping. These units are pretty hard to find in new condition. Just posting this as a lead for the next guy that stops by looking for one.