jimoshel

Must of just been passing through. :rotf:

When asking for help it helps if you give all the information relative to the problem in the first inquiry. Your question relates to the engine so giving the engine size and year would be relative. Giving the Jeep color and rear axle ratio would not. There were 2 engine options for 1989. A 2.5 and a 4.0. The dipstick for the 4.0 as measured from the top of the bell to the 'FULL' mark= 21 5/8 inches. To the 'ADD' mark=22 7/16 in. Overall length= 23 7/8 in For the 2.5 engine to the 'FULL' mark= 20 5/8 in. to the 'ADD' mark=21 9/16 in. overall length=23 7/8 in. Another way would be to change the oil and oil filter. That should be SOP when purchasing a used vehicle. Replace filter, and drain plug and fill with proper amount of oil. 4 Cyl engine= 4 quarts. 6 cylinder engines= 6 quarts. Start engine let run a couple minutes. Turn engine off. Let set a couple minutes. Check dip stick. That will be the correct level. Welcome to the club and good luck with the truck.

Got indoor plumbing. Don't have to make no outdoor trips or planning.

Always thought about choppin a MJ cab. But not a good one. Wonder if he'd take $200 and deliver.

Seat with an e, not an i. (I grew up in Europe) 8) New that wazzn't rite when I sade et. :oops:

A 1958 Siat (Spanish built Fiat) 500 with a turbo charged 500ci Cadillac? :huh???:

Somebody wasn't paying attention to detail. There wasn't a jet in the lot. A P-51 and a F4U, both reciprocating engines. But that doesn't detract from the guys work. A real artist and craftsman.

Not sure what they mean by 'valve adjustment' either. Only thing I can think of is shimming the springs. Never heard it called 'valve adjustment'. Was just called 'shimming'. When grinding the valves and seats it removes metal and the keeper slot is higher from the head producing less spring pressure. They measure the height of the keeper and add shims under the springs to restore the original height. This should be accepted practice at any professional shop. On the rods, the only thing I can think of is bolting the rod cap back on to the rod and machining the bearing surface. Rerounding the hole so to speak.Insures the bore is parallel with the crank. The cap is then is then ground down to restore the proper circumference, Polishing the rod is just that. Removes all the casting roughness and bumps. Idea being less turbulence and better oil flow. Both steps necessary in full out race engines but not needed in street or stockers.

:agree: Good shop work will be expensive. Think of it as an investment. The better the investment, the better the returns. The last time I had any shop work done was over 15 years ago. That was almost $600. Allowing for inflation a $1000 now sounds about right. If you have any doubts about the shop, ask around. Surely there's a garage, shop or mechanic around who uses them regularly and would be willing to share their opinion of their work with you.

I've got 7 chain saws sitting on the shelf. The last one I bought was 14 years ago. Had a contract to clear 400 acres in New Mexico for a saw mill. Ain't familiar with modern junk. LOL. Got Husky, Stihl, and McCulloch. Guess I'll just keep rebuilding the old but reliable instead of buying a new one.

Make sure the area between the bar and the housing is clean, Make sure the two nuts holding the bar are tight. Check the bottom pully for flowing oil. A new chain will stretch and require frequent adjustments at first. Don't force the saw into the wood.Let it draw itself in. Husqvarna is the best made, You're not gonna beat it.

If Noah had let a little rain stop him we'd all still be sitting around in neck deep water waiting for the Ark to float.

:agree: All of the above. Also remove the spark plugs and squirt a little oil into the cylinders. With the plugs still out, spin the engine over for a couple seconds. If it has a oil pressure gauge, I spin it until I get a reading on the gauge.

I've used acrylic plexiglass, aircraft quality and made my own when I couldn't find anything readily available or reasonably priced..

Get her a Nash. They're very dependable. They did? When? Nobody tells me nothin.

Which ever way it goes, I'm confident you'll make the best of it. Good Luck..Jim

Range of the PT-17=450 miles, on a good day, if your lucky. Cruise=90MPH. San Francisco to Hawaii=2,400 miles Bright and sunny there. snowing here. Yeah, I believe I could make it. Hey Don. You're Navy. What would it take to get the USN to conveniently locate a couple of their mobile landing strips, refueling stations along the route? :rotfl2:

All the holes in the floor are the same. They made up for the various differences in the boots and bezals.

Depending on float (filter) level, there will be 1-2 gals of unusable fuel remaining in the bottom of the tank.

I would think that more important than a little sag would be cracks. Clean the leaves up and look for hair line cracks running across the leaf.

Got tired of getting seasick while having sex. :doh:

Clogged, dirty fuel filter. Fuel pump going bad, Rubber hose connecting filter to pump disintegrating.

Scouts did come out with a 304 engine. There was no connection between Scout and Jeep. The 304 could be a swap or original. They swapped parts in them just like we do in Jeeps. I once put a 472 Cadillac with a TH400 in a '68 Scout. There is a following but not as big as Jeep. They were good reliable vehicles.

Or 'one tough 2.8' Went into town in the MJ yesterday. '86, 2.8, AX5, 4WD, 31's. About a mile from town engine started losing power and making noise. Bad Noises. Pulled over to side of road, engine died. Hit starter. just went CLUNK. didn't turn engine over. Popped hood. Oil over everything, Pulled dip stick, had to use a rag, it was to hot to hold. Nothing. I had checked it the day before. It was full. Not now. Bone dry. Figured I blew the engine. Called my neighbor. He went over to the yard and got the tow truck and come got me. After getting it home took half an hour inspection to finally realize the oil sending sw was gone. Replaced sw, filled with oil. hit starter, it fired. took 5 minutes of this , start die, start, die before it kept running. Rattled like a tin can in a threshing machine. Drove it around the yard for awhile. Seem to be running OK. Said to hell with it. Went on the highway. Got it up to 80. Put 20 miles on it, turned around and came back at 80. Runs great, no noises.Seems to be OK. Don't know why the sender came out. Threads are good, not stripped. Going to get the steam cleaner fired up later and get the engine bay cleaned up. That 2.8 may be gutless but it's STOUT!!.

Very nice.