jimoshel

Wrap a little duct tape around it. It'll be good for another 25 years. :shake: :thwak:

Your right Don. I knew better. I'm just going to blame it on a mental lapse due to being at the puter late at night instead of in bed. Got all 3 tanks and was going to line them up and measure and take pics but got sidetracked with a sick horse. Maybe tomorrow. Had to have the horse put down. Vet couldn't do anything for her.

Yes.They made up the different sizes by altering the length of the tank. The depth, witch is what the fuel gauge sees remained the same.

I am certain this does not apply to Comanche Club members. Just every body else. Oil Change instructions for Women: 1. Pull up to GM Dealership when the mileage reaches 3,000 miles since the last oil change. 2. Drink a cup of coffee. 3. 15 minutes later, scan debit card and leave, driving a properly maintained vehicle. Money spent: Oil Change:$24.00 Coffee: Complementary TOTAL: $24.00 Oil Change instructions for Men: 1. Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, and use your debit card for $50.00. 2. Stop by Beer Store and buy a case of beer, (debit $24), drive home. 3. Open a beer and drink it. 4. Jack truck up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands. 5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car. 6. In frustration, open another beer and drink it. 7. Place drain pan under engine. 8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench. 9. Give up and use crescent wrench. 10. Unscrew drain plug. 11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss. 12. Crawl out from under truck to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil. 13. Have another beer while watching oil drain. 14. Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench. 15. Give up; crawl under truck and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off. 16. Crawl out from under truck with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer. 17. Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface. 18. Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine. 19. Remember drain plug from step 11. 20. Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan. 21. Drink beer. 22. Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill. 23. Get drain plug back in with only a minor spill. Drink beer. 24. Crawl under truck getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame removing any excess skin between knuckles and frame. 25. Begin cussing fit. 26. Throw stupid crescent wrench. 27. Cuss for additional 5 minutes because wrench hit truck and left dent. 28. Beer. 29. Clean up hands and bandage as required to stop blood flow. 30. Beer. 31. Dump in five fresh quarts of oil. 32. Beer. 33. Lower truck from jack stands. 34. Move truck back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during any missed steps. 35. Beer. 36. Test drive truck. 37. Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence. 38. Truck gets impounded. 39. Call loving wife, make bail. 40. 12 hours later, get truck from impound yard. Money spent: Parts: $50.00 DUI: $2,500.00 Impound fee: $75.00 Bail: $1,500.00 Beer: $20.00 TOTAL: $4,145.00 But you know the job was done right!

Does any one know if the spider gears from a '86 4:11, 27 spline, non C clip interchange with '87 up? Couldn't find anything in search. I have a '87 I can tear apart and find out but checking to see if any body already knows. The spiders were all chipped up in my '86 and I'm trying to find the easiest (Cheapest) fix.

Confirmed. Dana 35.

Anybody notice in the Chilton manual Chapter 8, page 8-10 the pic on the bottom right hand side. Shows using a pair of slip joint pliers and 1/2 drive ratchet to loosen, remove the pinion nut. Has any body ever actually did this? I mean REALLY? I was thinking the rear end in my '86 that went out was a Dana 35. BUt after tearing it apart came to the conclusion it might be a AMC 20. Was trying to confirm.

It can go both ways but usually stays with the tranny.Some times but not always, the converter will have different stall speeds for the engine, a 4 cylinder having a higher stall speed than a V8.

Don. That''s what I thought it was all along or I wouldn't have drove it as long as I did. Besides I just didn't feel like crawling under it. It's the spider gears. Half the teeth are missing and the other half is chipped. Got it all cleaned up nice and purty and got all the scrap out of the case. Visual inspection and gauge measurements shows the pinion and axle bearings are OK as is the ring gear and pinion. I got a trac loc awhile back. Gonna see if I can find it and put it in. Otherwise just gonna replace the spiders and put everything back together again. Should be good for another 200 thou. Jim

There's a tag on the right rear side of the tranny. It should have the part no and date on it.

About 6 months ago I started hearing a faint "CLUNK' when I started out from a dead stop. A month or so after that it started 'CLUNKING' when I backed up.About 2 months ago it started "CLUNKING" not only when starting out forward or reverse, it started 'CLUNKING' when turning corners. About a week ago it was going constant CLUNK, CLUNK, CLUNG while steady driving. This afternoon while returning from town and with absolutely no warning whatsoever, or any sort of a clue there was trouble brewing it went KERLUNK, CLANK and although the motor was still running the Jeep wasn't moving. Tried to call my neighbor to get the trailer and come get me but I couldn't reach him. removing the diff cover I removed as much scrap metal as I could and replaced the cover, using only 2 screws, I felt that was all that was needed, and come on home, 7-8 miles, using the front axle. Might be a blessing in disguise. Think I'll replace the 3;55 with a 4;11 and leave the front 3;55 in place. Then modify the shift linkage so I can select axles like I select gears, using the rear for power and the front for economy. :shake:

With holding any comments until I see what he comes up with for an exhaust .

No, '54 Willys '72 Chevy 1/2 T '67 Chevy 3/4 T '70 Jeep J10 '72 International Trailer Toter '83 Chevy 1T '64 Scout Only the two Internationals and '83 Chevy was factory installed. I did the others.

Not sure but I always thought the shift boot was dependent on the transmission. Not the engine. The hole in the floor board, transmission hump is the same regardless of engine. The transmission shifter is the same regardless of engine. It should fit.

Your not going to beat the price. Get them both. If you don't want them sell them or use for trading material. If your not to far away I'd give ya $200 for both of them. Why can't people put their location in their post or profile?

First check the ground behind the left tail light. Then check for power at the tank. Pull the plug and see if you're getting voltage. One wire is for fuel pump. Second wire is for gauge. Then check the fuel pump relay and ballast resister. Also the fuse.

Living in the boonies, 5% country road, 5% city, 90% interstate. 1952 M38, 3sp/4.38?/6.00X16. I have absolutely no idea. All trail running, horse, cow chasing. 1987 MJ, 2.5/4sp/3:55/ 215X15 19-21mpg 1986 MJ, 2.8/5sp/3:55/ 31.5X10.50X15 17-18 mpg 1993 ZJ, 5.7/auto/3:55/ 235X15, 16-18 mpg 1977 J20, 360/4sp/4:11/9:50X16,5, 12 mpg, on a good day. GF'S 2006 Dodge 1500, 360/auto/265X20, 15-16 mpg

I have made several trips with a MJ pulling a tow dolly. I wouldn't try it with my trailer, It's too heavy and would excede the Jeeps GVW. Then I use the J20.

IMHO $1700 is to much to pay for a donor. I would try to fix it and sell. Danger there is putting to much into it and never be able to get it back. You're buying a donor to part out. Get what you want from it and sell the rest. If your lucky you can sell good parts and get some of your investment back. If not, then you have a pile of scrap sitting in your yard and the neighbors complaining to the city. A couple months ago I bought a '98XJ Sport and a '87 MJ. Package deal for $700. The MJ was parked because the owner couldn't afford to put plates and insurance on it and fix it. The XJ had been wrecked, front end damage. I sold the 4.0 engine for $400, The tranny and transfer case is laying on the ground, both front doors and windshield were put in a '89 MJ, The stereo is in my '87MJ, The bucket seats are in the storage room and I got $300 for the rest as scrap. The MJ only needed it's injectors cleaned.

I have run dual tank setups in several vehicles. All times a hose ran from both tanks to a selector valve. The tanks were never directly connected. When using a manual selector, the valve was placed under the floorboard and the switch came up between my feet. The other setups used a electronic control valve and the switch was on the dash and the valve located under the body. In using a XJ-MJ setup I would just run the 2 hoses to a "Y" and have switch turning the individual pumps on or off. To fill a container from one of the tanks either plumb a 'T' fitting into one of the lines running from the tanks to the 'Y' or between the 'Y' and the engine. then you will need a on-off valve in the line.

If your not getting any signal at all a booster won't help. You will need a translator or a repeater. A translator picks up a signal and rebroadcasts it at a different frequency. A repeater picks up a signal and resends it on the same frequency. That may be what your referring to as a booster.

Get a one gallon container. Run a hose from your MJ pump outlet to the container. Have a timing device ready. Turn the pump on and hit the timer. When the container is full read the timer. Or use a one qt container. Multiply the timer reading by 4.

It sounds do-able to me.Do some careful planning and don't Mickey Mouse it. Could probably make use of a remote control valve, AKA '72 Chevy. Had dual tanks and the valve was operated by a switch on the dash. Had to fill each tank individually. Let us know how it turns out.

:agree: I have 3 just like it, 4 counting the one with the 4.0. Can't be to rare. Trying to figure out how a DD can only have 73K. That engine must be so sludged up from not getting hot it takes a 24 volt battery to turn it over. When I go look at something that is not as advertised, The hardest thing is just turning around and walking off without saying anything.

I have always cut and welded my own drive shafts. Never had a problem yet. As mvusse said, just make sure it's straight. I have a 1/2"X8"X8' steel plate I clamp the shaft to using a C clamp on each UJoint making sure it's up tight to the plate. Tack weld it in 3 places. Put in lath, finish welding.