jimoshel

Probably a more important question would be' How do you tell them apart?' I can tell the RE by the bulge in the pan but how do you identify the 42, 44 and 46 from each other? Book says they can be identified by a marking on the left side flange. All I see is a code, telling me nothing.

Based on personnel experience, which is the better transmission? Normal use, No hill climbing, snow plowing etc. :dunno:

"Beware the ides of March," er, I mean beware of the MJ bug bite, where one just isn't enough. Does look like it will be a nice addition.

Don't think the starter would be spinning if the relay was bad. When the starter is spinning does it turn the engine over? Anytime something has been sitting awhile the first thing I would check is fuel. Is it getting any? Spark?

Thought I would try experimenting with alternative fuels in one of my MJ'S. Poured a 5 lb can of 4831 gun powder in the gas tank. Let set a couple hours until it had all dissolved, an hit the starter. So far all I've been able to find is the left front tire-wheel and the tail gate. :shake:

Are you sure you really want to do this? :D

Me too. I got my flare tool back in 1961 from Big A. Got the best one they had, American made, Used it a week ago and turned out 2 perfect flares. Quality doesn't cost. It pays.

BINGO! That's it.

3 of the top ones, 1st, 2nd and 4th are valve seat reamers. The 3rd from the left is a bearing reamer. The one with the spring around it looks like part of a Alternator, water pump, power steering pump pulley remover. The others look familiar, just not placing them now. Let me sleep on it.

You got me there. I was referring to Jeep BC. Before Chrysler.

Never happen. When Jeep was independent there may have been a possibility But as long as it's a sub division of a larger corporation that can't stand competition against their crappy products no way.

Some of then guys are crazy. You'll NEVER see me climbing up a slick snow bank on a steep mountain side. :rotf:

If your fish is missing and your roomy offers you a 'tuna fish salad or sandwich' when you get back, be suspicious. :shake:

Noticed this yesterday when i walked around the Jeep. Got no idea when or where it happened. Has to have been within the last 4 days. Either the other day when I was moving stuff in the yard, although I find it hard to believe i did that and didn't notice, or else one of the two times I went to town. Somebody did it in a parking lot. Don't think I'm going to have any problem working it out with a hammer and dolly but I'm still PO'D. :fs2:

Used the middle seat from a '68 Waggy in my '70 J10. My brother, his wife and kid would ride back there when we went mountain climbing.

RETIRE?? Isn't that when you do twice the work for half the pay? But enjoy it more?

This has been covered a dozen times but I didn't need the info then and search now is only bringing up fuse box swap. What engines are a direct swap for the 2.8? Only interested in the mechanical hook up, block to bell housing. Not worried about the fuel, electrics. I have a lead on a 4.7 Vortec and a bad 2.8 is what brought this up. :dunno:

A little Bondo here and there. Some duct tape. A coat of paint. Good as new.

Your poll isn't working. Don't think they're legal for common citizens. Or they might be using Yellow, Amber lights. Check with the Fuzz before blowing the bucks.

Why don't you tear it apart first and see what it needs? Hope for the best. Expect the worst.

It's part of the main harness. You will either have to cut and splice the wires. Remove the whole harness, not fun, or as I do. Remove the terminals from the fuse box. Label everything. Take pics or make a drawing. Radio Shack may or may not have the tool for removing the terminals. Just transfer one wire at a time. Much easier than doing them all at once. I made my own tool using a old hack saw blade. Might want to practice on an old box as their is a trick to it but once you get the hang of it you can pop 'em out one a second.

Has there ever been any effort to classify rust? Received a letter from a CC member asking about rust free MJ'S in Colorado. Got me to thinking which can really lead to bad things. What would be a rust free truck in the North East would be called a Rust Bucket in the South West, Is the rust interior, leaking doors, windshield, muddy shoes leading to rusty floorboards, or exterior, fenders, wheel wells, bed panels caused by road salts and bad air. If it's rusting out a Jeep body what's it doing to your lungs? If a rust spot has been repaired, does it make any difference whether the replacement panel was original or if a flat piece of tin was cut and bent to shape? Was the repair panel welded, pop riveted or held in with screws? How about establishing a standard whereby a Jeeper in Utah advertises a Jeep for sale with a slight rust spot under the left headlight would mean the same thing to a Jeeper in Michigan? Examples of describing rust. Light surface rust= Can be removed in a couple minutes with a Brillo pad. all the way to Rusted out=Panel needs to be removed and replaced. Just rambling and wondering. I could go on for another hour on the subject but my coffees cold. Jim :dunno: :hmm:

60? :dunno:

Said no such thing. Said he replaced the stick and handle. Anybody here familiar with Henrys' first products? 1908 Model T Fords. Very unique oil checking system. No dipstick. No gauge. Just a petcock on the bottom of the oil pan. Open the petcock. If oil came out you were OK. No oil, you added a qt. Must of been hard on engines if that was the last drop in the crankcase.