jimoshel

Standard was 16 gal. Optional was 23.

The rear bumper is the most convenient, therefore the most used place for mounting any antenna. It's also the worst place to mount one performance wise. The truck body acts as a ground plane for the signal and when the antenna isn't centered then it warps the directional pattern. The best place is centered as much as possible on the truck. Usually this means a whole in the roof, which many folks don't want to do. The second best method is make a mount coming off the front of the bed with the base off the antenna even with, or slightly above the cab roof.There are several rubber plugs on the floor and bottom of the cab. Run the cable through one of them.

I have 14 handguns in my locker. My favorite, and preferred is the colt model 1911 .45. I have 3 of them, Maybe the fact I carried one for 13 years in the military bias my judgement. But the fact that it is one reliable and dependable fire arm helps. I would want something a little smaller for concealed carry. I wouldn't carry anything smaller than a .40 caliber for stopping power. Talking guns is like talking women or cars. Everybody has their personal preference.

I got the line off the filter and the filter unscrewed from the carb but the line is to far in the filter to remove it. If you bend the line then your going to cross thread the nut trying to put it back in. I like the idea of cutting the line and inserting a in line filter.

How in holy heck do you change the fuel filter, the one on the carb, on these dern things. About a week ago it lost power on the top end. I put it down to water, ice in the gas. A can of heet, a couple almost warm days and a tank of gas didn't fix it so I was going to check the pressure and filters. The only way I can figure to remove the line and the filter on the carb is to remove the carb. It's a solid line and there isn't enough slack in it to remove it from the filter housing or to remove the housing. Am I missing something or are these things really that asinine to work on?

When a vehicle leaves the factory it's one big compromise. Mileage, power, economy, comfort, cost etc., etc.They are selling to the general public. Not a small group. What these chips do, when you get one that works, is take from one application, economy, to improve another, power. Sometimes it will also be necesary to swap a sensor for a better signal to the chip.

Pics always helps.

Use this? [/img] Only small window i could find on drivers side. Your pic shows a single big window. Went back and looked again. The passenger door, Not driver. :doh: Still got. Mark it off to a brain fart, and the cold.

$20 shipped.

Was looking for February. COTM is the second thing I look for after playmate of the month. :DOOOPS. Found it. Saw the January and didn't look any further.

What happened to February Comanche of The Month? Trouble makers,,er,,curious minds want to know. :dunno:

:agree: I now have three :jump: :jump: Some people just get greedy when it comes to collecting. :D

So what happens if he has a dead battery and asks you for a jump start? :doh:

Tut tut mow. Let's show a little gracinu,,grache,, gracous, grac,,, tolerance here.

Back in the old days when I had to work for a living one of my sources for a paycheck was from LASL. Los Alamos Scientific Laboratory, weapons research and development. Los Alamos, NM. My primary function was to follow engineers around and remind them to wipe up or down on the first swipe, and remind them their fly was open. Other times I sat at a very well equipted work bench and build things for myself. Ham equipment, auto electronic stuff etc. I think me and Al built the first electronic ignition systems and electronic tachs in NM and installed them on our Jeeps. Occasionaly a engineer would walk by, drop several sheets of scribbles on my bench and say, "build this." Or they would drop off a bread board full of components, and if I was lucky, a schematic or a wiring diagram, usually on a half a dozen scrawled pages of scribbles and say, "make this work". Not sure which I enjoyed the most. Giving the engineers a hard time or the challenge of the job. I got very adept at wiring from scratch, trouble shooting wiring, and drawing schematics. The whole point of this ramble being that I am not afraid of 'the unknown' and looking forward to getting this thing going, hopefully coming up with some usefull data making things easier for anyone who will be doing the same thing later. I just want to see more Jeep stuff used in Jeeps and less Cheby. And a more practical side out of several dozen vehicles in the yard their isn't one Chevy. Just Jeep, a couple Fords and a International or 2. :doh: Gotta take that back. I forgot. Got 2 S10's out there.

Pink with Yellow and Green pin striping.

Those days are long gone only if you let them. Some things may take a little longer but then when you've accomplished them it's much more satisfying. The body may moan and groan and give you a hard time but it's the mind that determines your age. :cheers:

Have you gave any thought to cutting the firewall out and driving around with all the windows down? Straight thru air flow, no restrictions. Otherwise I would go with No 1.

I tried that but it didn't work. Went thru 5 French maids and never made it past the back seat. :huh???: :rotf:

Start the truck. Let it warm up. Turn engine off. Put tranny in lowest gear. Start engine.It will start. Hard on starters but it will get you going. T o shift without a clutch. When you let up on the gas there is a brief moment when the gears are loose, you shift to nuetral. Then as the engine rpm matches the next gear you shift into that gear. Needs practice to be perfect but will get you home in an emergency. Thats the way all the big rigs are driven. They don't use the clutch when shifting. Only when stopping or first starting.

Sure glad I got the larder and the gas tanks filled before it hit. 3 feet on the ground, 6 foot drifts and another 3 feet in the sky still falling. Parked the 2WD DD and put chains on all 4 on the 4WD so I'm ready. Now if I could just figure out some way to get the live stock fed with out walking thru the s*t I'd have it made. Free snow. Just pay shipping and it's yours.

I pretty well memorized that thread. Was wondering if that was you or not. Very well written and very informative. Hope it will be OK to get back with you and compare ideas as I blunder through this. I'm starting to think it would be much simpler to just cut the back ends of the two and attach the MJ rear frame and bed to the front half of the ZJ. Well now, I do just happen to have another ZJ-MJ just sitting around. Wonder if I can handle two projects at the same time. El Jimbo :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:

Waiting to see how this turns out. Keep us posted.

What is the biggest reason there aren't more WJ, ZJ, KJ, YJ etc drive train swaps into MJ'S? Main reason for asking is because I'm getting ready to do just that. I've got a rust free (as are ALL my Colorado MJ's ) with a bad engine and a clunky tranny, and a '98ZJ wrecked but with low mileage 42K, 5.2 engine and auto, perfect drive train that's just begging "Swap me! Swap me" Plan is to completely strip the MJ of every thing, engine, tranny, TC, axles, wiring and instrumentation and replace with parts from the ZJ. Know it's been done B4 but just don't remember hearing to much about them. :wrench: Why are Jeep parts the hardest parts to swap into a Jeep?

A fuel filter will help only until it gets clogged. Bite the bullet, remove the tank and clean it properly. I have taken a suction pump and drained the tank getting most of the gunk but I had access to the tank where I could look into it and see how clean it was.