jimoshel

Different prices, different parts of the country. Local, and only, P&P here. Head $40 Int Mn $40 Header $30 Complete engine $250 I get $400 for an engine but I leave it in the car until sold so it can be started and ran. Know what they're getting.

To milk this for all it's worth, or to more fully explain what's happenin. Some of you may remember a couple years ago I got a '89 MJ. Fella was gonna make a rock crawler out of it and quit. It had a D60 under the rear and a D44( I think ) under the front. Steering wasn't hooked up and the coils had been replaced by leafs. Really Mickey Mouse F*cked up mess. The bed and cab was full of parts. 2-D35's, a D30, springs, brake drums, shoes, drive shafts etc,etc, and 1 axle shaft. I ASSumed it was for a D35. Two months ago I got a D44 from a MJ-MT at the P&P missing the right hand shaft. This morning I was sorting thru stuff and for some reason, I don't know why, I tried the shaft from the MJ bed into the D44 housing. It fit perfectly. I refused to believe it was a D44 shaft or that D44-D35 stuff interchanged. The reason for the post that started all this. And that's the story. I now have a D44 to rebuild, or at least check out and get it under my DD. :wavey: El Jimbo

OK then. It has to be a D44 shaft then. Like I said, it fit perfectly in the housing and there's no slot for a C clip. Really weird. I got a D44 rear end a couple months ago. It came from a '87 or '88 MJ MT. It was missing the right side shaft. Had the springs. I was going to find another shaft and re build it to put under one of my MJ. I never even thought of the possibility of that shaft fitting. Thanks for the input guys. :cheers:

Just shows the value of "getting it in writing." Thanks for sharing.

Do the axle shafts from D35 and D44 interchange? I have a shaft that I assumed was from a D35. It was laying, lying? loose in a pile of rear ends. I tried it in a D44 housing.. It fit perfectly. I don't have a D35 tore apart so I didn't try it in one. Markings on the end of the shaft. Cast in. 1 60-1 D71 MW. The following number was stamped. 964-1 C. Any body got a clue as to what it's for? :dunno:

Don't know if they changed the rules or just started enforcing them but when I was in Spain we could drive American autos without amber lights or any hassle. Might be worth the trouble to see if it might be possible to cut out the amber part from a XJ and fit it in.

Got a bad 249 in a '96 ZJ. Was going to swap a 242 in it's place. Then got to thinking why not a 231. I got 2, 242's. I got 8, 231's. Checked search but really couldn't come up with anything that helped. It's a DD, no heavy off road stuff. Looking for any ideas, opinions on ease of swap and durability of cases. I am aware of the spline count and input shaft lengths, so don't go into that. :wrench:

It only does it while driving? It doesn't do it sitting parked and reving the engine? Holding the engine at a stedy speed and turning the AC on and off should help pin down if it's a loose belt.

Why don't you try pinning the problem down first before doing anything else. Use the old hose, or if you have one, stethoscope and locate where the noise is coming from. I would suspect alternator or water pump first.

Factoring in my 1927 Harley JD and my 1932 Pontiac, over 40 years. Got too many to be doing brain calculations. Gives me a headache. Do airplanes count?

If you've got most of the parts you shouldn't have to sink too much more into it. Alternators can be picked up at the P&P for $10. $25 for radiators.You can get all the nuts and bolts you need just walking around and picking them up off the ground, or go to the hardware store and get new. How rusty is the body? What are your mechanical skills? Why weren't the broken bolts removed when it was rebuilt? How bad do you want it? How hard to get a title? What did you get it for in the first place? I'll give you $300 for it sight unseen if your within 200 miles of Pueblo.

Remove the carpet. It will make the job easier plus giving you the opportunity to check and clean up any floor rust.

I'm running 31X10.50/15, stock rims on my '86 MJ. 1and a half inch pucks in front and Chevy spring connector in back. Got plenty of clearance all around, no problems.

By wrapping heat tape around a gas line you transfer the heat sucked out of the line to the water heater, thereby keeping it from freezing up.

Something in the wiring is killing the battery. Unhook one of the bat cables. Charge the battery, Now touch the loose cable to it's post. There will be a spark. The brightness of the spark will be some indication of the drain. An amp meter will give an accurate indication. There will be a couple milliamps draw due to memory circuits but shouldn't be over 1/2 amp at most. With the amp meter still hooked up, remove one fuse at a time in the power distribution box. This will narrow down which circuit is defective. Don't overlook the possibility you got a defective battery. A simple test will determine if that is the case.

Long shot but we're getting desperate here. Somebody backed a vehicle, lifted, close enough so the exhaust would reach there? Just the way it's angled does look like the window could have something to do with it. Cigar smoker leaned against the side? Ground wire from TV antennae going under vinyl to ground stake? House caught fire but smoldered itself out before bursting into flame?

Heat is the only thing I've seen warp vinyl like that. Weird. Is the sun reflecting off from anything nearby?Furnace, stove, barbeque open grill in the area?

Felt he was asking to much for what he had. I'm sure it would be worth $1800 in the rust belt but not here. Drivers side floor pan was rusted, only rust on whole truck, and had been patched. Bent metal on drivers door and fender. Small dent on tailgate. Seat upholstery worn, tore. Ran good. New tires. New steering components. Told him if he hasn't sold it in a couple weeks and will come down on price to give me a call. I've bought better trucks than that one for $600, and less.

Someone used a 'Yota rack... Looks durn good. Rob Went. Looked. Came back. He made the rack his self. Did a good job on it.

That could be it. I got a couple of them. It's more of a axle guard than a engine. Oh well, He's coming out tomorrow and look. We'll see. Thanks guys.

Did they put a engine skid plate under ZJ'S? Fella called me up wanting a engine skid plate for a 98ZJ. I looked under 5 ZJ and 6 XJ ND A COUPLE wj. cOULD FIND NO SKID PLATE OR ANY EVEIDENCE THAT THERE EVER WAS ONE. Wondering if maybe he meant the splash shield goes behind the front bumper. Anyone know?

I have 3 MJ'S with a Fey bumper on them. It looks like 2 of them used the Fey mounting hardware and the 3rd was home fabricated. When compared to a original MJ bumper the Fey looks like it has a hair heavier gauge metal and overall quality seems to be very good. I would not exceed the recommended load rating. 350# tongue and 3500#GVW.

They're not hard print manuals. They're on line tech info. All you need is a puter.

The yellow one "Goldie" will be pulling the trailer.

Will I get it? Nope. got enough already. Don't need anymore. But it won't hurt to go take take a look. :yes: pueblo craigslist > for sale / wanted > cars & trucks - by owner 1988 jeep comanche - $1800 (Pueblo ) Date: 2012-01-15, 5:26PM MST Reply to: sale-vjp7n-2801678234@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] 1988 jeep comanche. 5speed 4x4 new tires. Runs n drives great. Nothin pretty but not in bad shape. New tires. Has black rims. Straight six motor 200 000 miles. Runs really good for mileage. Good gas mileage as well. Has the typical jeep main seal oil leak. Also has a headache rack on it. Needs an exhaust. Call or text 719 248 1789 for details and photos Location: Pueblo