SubSonic

You could pick up a high flow cat, run straight pipe past the cab and dump it before the rear end. Cost me about $100 for the pipe and the cat. (welding was free) But it's cheap, simple, and requires no bends. You could use a muffler of choice instead of straight pipe if you want quiet, for relatively low cost as well.

Because its what my donor came with. I already engaged the fork and moved the e-clip, so no big deal.

Ok, so I've realized that I will need to set up vacuum for the front axle engagement unit from the T-case. If I don't want to simply keep it engaged all the time and plug the T-case vacuum ports, what is the easist vacuum routing for it? Or is it simply not worth setting it up like that?

I, as well as you I'm sure, would like to think if the overheating issue has not resurfaced and your not dumping any white smoke that that isn't probable, but I suppose it couldn't be ruled out entirely. However, if neither of these are occuring, I doubt that it's related to the emissions. I installed a new cat on mine six months ago, and just squeeked by emissions, even with a new h.o. motor. With my old OEM cat, it wasn't even close, passed with flying colors. I feel that some cheap replacement cats really do have barely enough material to get you by. Of course they all have mandated warranties so replacement is free if you can prove that to be the issue. I also feel it may have something with my extremely free flowing exhaust... ie. cat and straight pipe out, meaning the exhaust spends far less time being catalyzed. As the previous post said an o2 sensor couldn't hurt, and if you dare try any snake oil, I've had decent luck with seafoam... if you like smoke shows, that is. Check anything that may have been bumped during installation of the new dizzy, low fuel pressure or a tps might cause the sluggish symptoms. All this can be simply checked, but I'd do my best not to throw parts at it. Unless you just want to throw stuff at it until you reach the money cap and they have to pass you... :dunno: but that's time poorly spent and a problem undiagnosed if it doesn't fix it.

There is no adjustment on the dizzy. If you put it in and it starts up and runs O.K. then it's been installed correctly. Make sure all plug connections are good. If this is all good, it is possible your parts store distributor has issues. There is also a chance that at the same period of time something totally unrelated happened. Something like a catalytic converter that is beginning to clog will cause you to lose performance and fail emissions. This is just a thought. You could also unhook your positive battery terminal and ground it to discharge any amount of voltage, this will allow the computer to reset and essentially relearn. While I don't know why a distributor would cause a need for this, it never hurts after replacing any component.

Well I took the seats out and peeked under the carpet. And..... factory paint. It looks really quite, quite good given the age. I am pleased. Now I'll attempt to get a drill and get the predimpled locations drilled out :banana:

I'm not too concerned about rust given my climate, but it never hurts to look. Thanks. Anyone have a bit of insight on the drive shaft, or should I just measure and have it shortened. Thanks again.

I recently pulled all of the parts for my conversion from my 1990 donor vehicle to put into my 1991. I've already swapped the front end. Both vehicles are AX-15 trucks and the transfer case is a 231. I'm getting the drive shaft shortened on Friday. Will the current nose shaft match the new setup? What would the length need to be to accomodate a 4 inch lift? (short wheel base) Also, the transfer case mounting plate was a pain to get out so I cut the carpet on my doner. (this is the plate that is on the driver side of the 4x4 handle.) How would you recommend getting to this area, will carpet removal be required? Thanks guys, just trying to get this done without too many surprises.

Check for a localized shop that specializes in custom hoses. I've had some AC lines built-while-you-wait to my spec for various application, and generally a bunch cheaper than OEM.

That number seems a bit high. I got my rebuilt H.O. done at Blaine's. They will either rebuild yours, or give you a rebuilt off the shelf in exchange for a core. It cost about $850. Granted it helps that they are local and deal in very high volume, I'm sure. And even with a knock, there is a high probability that your core is still good for rebuilding.

And always make sure you've completely sanded out all the marring from the low grit paper with the high grit stuff. It's amazing how often people don't completely sand out and leave marks, if only slight from sanding.

Yea, when I moved the bolt hole I also welded a plate in front for added strength. It's worked great.

I tend to get 240 on an 18 gallon tank. That's even when I had the stock size tires and only 10,000 miles on my h.o. It's also an ax-15. How do some of you get such good mileage?

My AX15 did this when I switched to redline. It got the point where I could no longer shift while driving, (would have to pull over after exiting the highway because I could not downshift) however it would shift when the car was off. Eventually it got to the point where the car would move when the clutch was completely pressed. Finally I drained the expensive mtx and replaced it with the cheapest gear oil I could find. It started getting smoother over the next week and now it's been months. It's my opinion that the synchros may disagree with certain fluids and hang.

Wow. And that's why I hate people... I hope the cops didn't make it a big deal.