Tex06

Yo....is Snellville too far?

Howdy. I'm back and forth these days between NOLA and Atlanta. Glad to see another Comanche around!

I've got a topper on mine (~150lbs) plus a bed that's usually got 200-300lbs of assorted tools, materials, and rugby stuff in it, plus a 140 lbs of dog a lot of times. I know that I can hold 60mph taking the I-75 to I-285 exit here in Atlanta without dropping out of 5th....I'm not gonna accelerate up the hills but it'll hold speed. If I'm pulling a trailer of any sorts, yep gonna have to downshift. I do wish I got anywhere near 22mpg with mine. I was consistently getting 17-18mpg then in December I fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the oil fil cap (last one leaked and blew oil all over the motor over time) and now I'm at 15.7 mpg. No other changes and I took a 2mpg hit. OP, we really need to know what year your truck is to make further suggestions. The differences between the Renix 4.0 (pre-'91) and the HO motor ('91+) mean there's different "most likely" culprits.

Somebody keep buying them all.....

Naw, that's what I've got and she'll pull right up hills around North Georgia, even loaded.

Couldn't have come at a better time. My fuel pump is on it's way out in this cold weather....I have to turn the key on and let it sit for a few minutes when it's below 30F outside before attempting to start.

Ok, question on this part. Making my patches (either by hand or from a preformed piece) is always my biggest struggle. Are you saying that you tack the patch panel in place in a corner, cut a little out with the air saw, then put another tack weld? Basically cut, tack, cut, tack....all the way around? Does the tacked in patch get in the way of the air saw? Sorry for all the questions, I've been doing body work for a few years but I've never heard of this method. If this is faster than my current way of tin snips and files.....heck, I'm all for it.

Are these what you're looking for?

Got really excited and yelled while driving when I saw this. She thought we were gonna hit something 🤣 Seen just now on I-10W in New Orleans.

I know the OP already picked up his new ride but I had to comment. I purchased a 2012 TDI Jetta Sportwagen for $6100 in August with 80k on it. Not the manual transmission I wanted but for that price I couldn't pass it up. Absolutely great car and easy enough to work on once you figure out you need a set of triplesquare sockets. 38-44mpg depending on how much I'm in the pedal, plus full length sunroof, heated leather seats, and very very comfortable for long rides.

A wild MJ!

Yup. Every single hurricane (technically it's the power but the end result is the same). Throw it all away and clean the fridge out.

My 92 has neither on it, although it may have been given the aftermarket treatment long before me. I was looking to replace mine as one housing was damaged when I got it and now the 2nd housing suffered from a case of oaf-itis when I stepped on it last weekend. Saw these on Amazon...I think they're close enough to actually fit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091KN4HR1/ref=sw_img_1?smid=&psc=1 Pics of what I do have currently. There used to be a cylindrical plastic housing that stuck out the middle....the left was always missing and the right got destroyed recently.

Oof. Best of luck to the OP. I think I'd go for a Detroit TrueTrac for his application, they're under $500 and an easy drop-in.

This G80 isn't the same as the GM "Gov-bomb" G-80 by chance is it? Limited slip

Yup. It's all GM inside and a lot of the pieces interchange. I have a '92 and I used an '80s GM turn signal stalk for my cruise swap. Where in Atlanta are ya? I just moved back to the area

Appreciate it. I can easily lock up all 4 with the camper shell on the back so I'm pretty happy for now.

Hmmmm....I don't have those in my truck. Just replaced my weatherstripping last month and it's all good though.

I pulled everything from a WJ and a ZJ a few years back to "fix" my brakes. Never got around to installing it though b/c after I went thru and rebuilt my stock setup, it was way more than adequate. My rear slave cylinders were trashed, one was completely frozen, the check valve on my stock booster was shot, and my pads & rotors up front were beyond worn from doing 100% of the braking. All in all, I think I spent $200 from Rock Auto with new slaves, pads, rotors, shoes, and drums, plus spent $0.48 on a new check valve. I've still got the booster if you're interested, I don't see me ever installing it. Can get pics after the holidays.

May be able to get the drums turned if you call around. They will actually take and grind the interior smooth (as long as it's within spec...the minimum thickness is cast into the side of the drum). A little cheaper than new.

Where is your aftermarket fuse box? is this in addition to the stock one or is it a replacement for stock?

My $0.02, it comes for free so take it as such: The AW4 has an overdrive ratio of .75 or .79 depending on what year it was pulled from. If you're happy with everything else about how the jeep drives, and just want to eliminate hunting at 65mph, the 4.10 gears should do you fine on 32" tires. The AX-15 has a .79 OD ratio so the 2 may have the same gearing at your "problem" speed, number of gears doesn't matter then. Full disclosure, I run an AX-15 on 32" tires and have 3.07 gears in my Comanche. My last XJ had an AW4 and 33" mud tires on 3.55 axles and ran 65 mph (GPS calculated) without hunting but it was in the North Georgia Mountains so it down shifted when climbing and hit OD on the flats consistently.

Just rebuilt my drums and holy cow does it make a difference. I had a wheel cylinder that was completely frozen up and shoes were shot on the other side. I even think my proportional valve still works as it should.

Let me know how this goes, I was looking at doing the same for a while but didn't get much headway.

Oof. New drivers can kill the best of clutches... getting a "stiffer" one will just make it harder for them to drive and teach them worse habits.