carnuck

:nuts: :rotf:

Bad switch or melted fusible link. I forgot about the clutch safety switch (first thing I bypassed on mine. I drove my truck for 2 months with a seized pilot bearing and blown clutch slave till I had time to take it apart)

I just fixed the sluggish internet on my Linux/XP dualboot box going through the router. Went in and turned off the "search for IPV6" feature and ZOOM! at least 56K feeling now. Almost quit the freezeup Firefox was fighting before too! I opened 30 tabs and so far, no lockup!

XJs and Wrangler are what kept Jeep in the Black. As for the MJ, too many were 2wd and without a "kingcab" many guys had trouble getting in/out (I'm 6' tall and 290 lbs. Without tilt, my truck would be a no-go) I plan to make an extended cab out of the one I originally bought for parts.

Sounds like maybe the ground on the block is loose/corroded? Pretty common. Otherwise, fusible link. Bat + to main terminal on alt and the dash lights should come on with the key. If not, toasted ignition switch probably.

Our snow is coming after this weekend (listening to the news right now)

I've had the same problem in 1/2 the std Jeeps I've owned. First the arm bends sideways, then it breaks. When it's on an angle, the master cyl will keep leaking, no matter how many times you change it!

You can't use the original driveshaft with a SYE. Physical impossibility!

With my BA 10/5 I was running 33" tires with 3.73 ratio. (originally 3.08 with stock tires) It was almost an exact match and I had plenty of power/top speed. I switched to 4.10s and lost ALL the top speed/power because the Renix is a low end torque maker.

Closest I've had is a Postal Jeep with the Audi 2.0L (and that was fun!) Sold it last summer to a guy that's swapping an Audi diesel in it's place.

Try swapping the fuel pump relay for one next to it. I had the same problem and that was the cure. (even made me late for work!)

Considering 3 of those days were due to problems my truck was giving me, and the fact it's a 25 mile ONE WAY trip; there aren't any other people I know who would even think of giving me a ride that far out just to go to work, so I was (for all intents and purposes) screwed. 1 of those days was for my dying aunt going into have surgery to try and remove harmful tumors from her breasts which she almost died during surgery. And the last one was visiting a close friend of mine who got into a serious accident on 1792. So no offense to you, I just don't really appreciate the snark comments when the reasons I had for missing those days were completely understandable and justifiable. And if they weren't supposed to be taken that way, I'm sorry for interpreting them that way. Just my 2 cents man. I've been there and most jobs will give you the boot if you miss more than 2 days in 6 months. As far as they are concerned, excuses are just that. They have jobs that need to be done and people that don't show cause things to not be done. Last job I lost was because a tire came off my car on my way to work. (tire shop screwed up) It didn't matter to the boss (I ended up being 1/2 an hour late and tardy for the 3rd time in a year) and I drove 150 miles a day to and from work.

For big tire upgrade, I like FSJ boxes

Filter changed yet?

Could be ignition switch going bad

$3.52 in Seattle North

Hi there 1wingnutt. :waving: Whereabouts are you?

The master is leaking out the back onto the fuse box. First thing to check is brand of fluid. Using anything other than Castrol GTLMA fluid results in failure within a few months on OEM seals. Check the clutch pedal isn't bent off straight line to the master because pushing on an angle causes the seals to leak.

The secondary brake line to the rear probably has air in it.

Actually, you don't have to cut the old ones off (unless using an XJ axle). They aren't in the way. You can also use stock length shocks if you use a plate with a shock mount between the axle and springs (I'm using the swaybar plate from the from of the '73 J4000 I parted)

Check the tracbar nut isn't loose on the frame on the driver's side.

Input depth is different. A Jeep NP208 would be a better fit (fixed yoke, strong enough for 401) but driveshafts will need to be made for the rear (NP208 is 5" shorter than NP229, 228, 219 or the Eagle tcases)

It's here in my carport, but I've been so sick with my bad teeth (doped up on pain killers all week, even at work) and messed up knees I haven't gone anywhere else other than the Dr's office. Top it off with extra high blood pressure and trying to arrange Christmas with all the kids/grandkids. I hope to find out tomorrow, but I've been sleeping the past couple days between rounds of pain.

YOU should talk! I already had the MJ trailer and Moonvisor! :no: LOL! I'm going to be looking for a nice shortbed to put on my longbed truck I have now so I can extend the cab with doors from a 2dr XJ and not have to mod the frame.

No pics yet? PS: No frame in XJ or MJ. You must mean FSJ frame (almost a bolt on)