knever3

I believe so, the last time it went full lean like it shows I replaced the O2 sensor and it worked for a year or so. I called zeitronics and talked with the tech and verified and bought it from them again. I thought about buying a REM to put above my display to get more info instead of using the MT2500 at times. I don't know if it's getting water in it or what. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

This is after it warmed up. The blue display is my dead wideband O2 so pay no attention. The TPS still isn't right and I've tried to adjust it a few times and can't get the proper voltages. I have that janky Hesco renix to new style adapter and if you notice it looks like it's sticking so the idle won't come down. Should have gone OBD1 Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I have had a rough idle with a misfire the last month and am looking for direction. I have a renix stroker with 99 intake and bored throttle body. Of course this cold start sounded normal, but I didn't let it run long to warm up. My wideband O2 sensor is going bad again. I replaced it once already so kind of mad about paying another $100 just to measure A/F ratio while driving. My TPS looks suspicious and my fuel trims look off. Let me know what you think of the short video. Ok don't know how to post a video, so I will post a link. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I bought Hella 450's personally, they come with a great harness with hood mounted relay and can be used with your factory switch in the dash. In my build it's on page 8. I have the Hella E-codes with the Hella relay harness. I had the Putco one and the relays died shortly after. They are very small and they got water in them (my fault). Susquehana Motorsports is where I got all my lighting through, wonderful company. If you have questions call them, they specialize in lighting and are so polite!!! Their website is actually rallylights. https://www.rallylights.com/ https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-005860601-450-FOG-CLEAR/dp/B01M35SXUC

Looks great! Even though it's a Western truck check under the carpet. These leak from everywhere and the water rusts out the floor pan while the entire truck is otherwise rust free. Those rims look excellent with that truck. It looks like it was painted at some point, the door striker is red. Good luck with the project!

I'm in for this adventure!!!! Can't wait to see the box out of the refer semi walls. Buy a dash cam with a HUGE SD card to document your adventure, I'm sure you'll have some exciting times. I hope you go through with it, can't wait to see what lies ahead.

Love it!! Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

My dad used to have a brat, it was riveted together and painted brown with speckles of every paint color thrown at it. I drove that to a basketball practice my freshman year in January, best day ever!! All my teammates teased me about the car, I said what other freshman drove to practice? I thought so...

Sweet! I can't get my wife to buy a Volvo, she says it reminds her of another anatomical word of the female species. I just love the brand and the Dynaudio stereos in the S80's were fantastic! If I search out an online forum she's in for a surprise! They don't make a minivan with stow&go seating though...

This has been my exact dilemma, I don't care to have a winch to stick out further then required, but I don't think ARB sells a bumper without the option. I want deer protection as well and the only option is ARB afaik. I guess the winch would tuck in behind the bumper anyway just leaving the solenoids sticking out of the top, it doesn't look bad without a winch, I just would get dogged without adding one. With the needed gussets the bumper NEEDS to stick out that far to provide support in a collision, it's just an added bonus for the winch plate.

I cringe thinking I scrapped my OEM AMC brush guard, and the OE LUND visor. Oh well can't take it back now!

I was wondering that myself, didn't think to check the sig. Bummer

No one has mentioned a cracked flex plate or loose TC bolts? If the tick gets better when warm the flex plate expands and the noise if minimized. It will get worse the more it cracks though. This was my experience personally. I thought it was a bearing myself. Pull the cover and inspect with a good flashlight.

I have never seen someone go through and document Cruiser's tips. Great work!!

Well, that idea just tanked in my opinion, thanks for the direction again Eagle. I guess I will just buy a new one or clean the one I have.

I plan on an Alpine type R shallow 12 and a passive radiator to get the ported efficiency of a vented box with the lower tuning frequency and increases power handling but allows for an increased bandwidth. Eq or dsp is a must since the Comanche has a HUGE midbass hump and needs to be minimized by reducing those frequencies respectively. You can use a smart phone as a microphone with an app. More complicated than a Grand Am for sure. No cabin gain to take advantage of. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

This thread is fantastic and should be a sticky! I seem to have a plugged block and it looks like I am going with the JEGS 555-63025 adjustable valve and be done. It looks like it has the same thread pitch 3/16" lines so hopefully I won't have to remake my hard lines. Either way it seems like a much better route then simply deleting the load sensing valve. Actually the OEM got it right, but with lifts and rotted parts it's not easy adapting the new changes.

So replace or use brake clean? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Yes, stock distribution block. I guess I thought the front block was considered a proportioning valve as well. The rear I would call a load sensing valve. My bad. I guess I could pull the caliper off and work the brakes to see if it moves. I don't know if the hose is bad or block. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Didn't seem to be a difference when I bled them. I haven't tried jacking it up and spinning the tire then braking. I know that usually when you remove a brake line it gravity drips and it i left it for 5 minutes and no fluid came out. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

My '87 Comanche pulls hard and I can lock up the LF tire when braking. I have a '96 brake booster and master cylinder installed, rear load sensing valve deleted. I have attached a picture of my setup and from my research it's correct. This summer my right front caliper locked up smoking when I got home. I changed the caliper and it still pulls to the left. Tonight I disconnected the hard line from the soft and to my surprise no brake fluid came dripping out! I inspected the flare and put it back together. I used my Motive pressure bleeder and pressured up the MC with fluid. I bled both left and right front wheels adjusted the rear adjusters just for kicks. Took it for a drive and it pulled hard left till it locked up the LF. The soft lines and hard lines are all new, well 10 years old new. Thoughts? Bad soft line? Bad proportioning valve? I can't drive this in the snow this way! Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Love the progress and your work! Great job on everything so far, I am a sucker for the old a/d/s amps.

To be honest the Optima battery has been excellent, I have killed it several times with leaving my headlights or interior lights, and now brake lights on. This time it went all the way down to 2.1V and it still came back to life. I don't know what the capacity for discharge or CCA is anymore, but it still starts. I need to sort out my brake light switch and figure out why my headlight switch buzzer doesn't work. I have some wiring chasing to do. I just wanted to get a solid choice before I have to pull the trigger. Thanks guys

Well I bought some time to get a battery, it charged up to 100%. It looks like it turns out it was my brake lights staying on. I have a Ford plastic brake light switch installed on a custom bracket because I couldn't get the factory one to work with my new '96 brake booster/master combo. I thought I made the flat on the push rod correct, but it didn't work out. I will have to investigate and fix this problem for good, even if it means buying another brake booster and trying again. The shape was completely different so I went a different route. I will also replace the rear sockets to put 3157 LED bulbs in while I'm at it. I will need to put the solid state flasher in as well. The last time the brake switch failed it melted! Not about to have a fire anytime soon I hope. This morning after driving it to work I got out and the brake lights were stuck on. Touched the pedal and they went off.

I had one bad experience with a lead acid battery. While my car was in storage for the winter it leaked all over the tray and rusted it. I had to pull it and sand blast and repaint. I have been buying AGM ever since. Sears Platinum was made by North Star or Oddesey, but I don't know anyone. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk