knever3

Update: My main clunk was from the axle bushings being worn out, can't believe they only last 35k miles. My JKS upper and lower control arm bushings are worn, so they are sending me a new set, I'll put them in sometime when my car is back on the road in the summer. I installed my old 3" motion offroad springs with 1" rubber spacers, I cut the 2" ones in half with a Sawzall, it's not pretty, but it's what I had. I wanted the truck drivable again and it sits 1" higher then before at 36" to the fender flare, rubbing from the tires to the bumper was solved. What a deal, pulling the springs out 4 times in all, but it is way better, no more crazy clunking, just a slight clunk from the control arm bushings left for a sunny day install. I would have loved the old man emu springs because they are crazy plush, but I'm not going back to stock height and tire size to make that happen. They might make a taller spring, but I'm not just not willing to throw money at it, I'm content.

Complete fail, OME coils were not long enough, couldn't even pull the jack stands out because the tire hit the fender. Sourced some 2" spacers locally, put them in, sits 2" lower than what I started with.

It only rubbed on the passenger side bumper end, but when I took the sway bar off to make sure the body bushings were making noise it rubbed on both because of body roll. I forgot to mention I need new bump stop cups, and I didn't order any...

Ok, update time. I bought some OME 2930 coils to replace my sagged "Motion Offroad" 3" springs. I don't even know who made them at the time. I removed the springs and the upper coil spring mount was torn apart, that's what all that metal was in the pictures above, springs weren't broken. The OME coils are about 2" SHORTER than my current coil springs. I didn't even need to use coil spring clamps to put them in. They are a bit bigger in overall diameter, but the steel is a smaller diameter, so I am certain I will need to buy some coil spring spacers to my sinigrin. The Dana 30 upper control mount bushings were bad, by the way, K3166 is the correct part number no matter what you may read on the internet. I am in the process of getting it back on the wheels so I can measure how much of a spacer I'm going to need, but then I can't use the rubber spring isolators, that would be a waste of money. I spent $250 on the springs when in reality I could have bought just some basic spring spacers. I guess you don't know until you're in there. My JKS upper and lower control arm bushings are shot, so they will warranty them, but I may have to send them mine, wait a week or two, then get some replacements. That would be a serious inconvenience not to have a truck for that long. I bought some new sway bar bushings for my 28mm sway bar, but the main clunk was from the upper control arm bushings in the axle, I'm sure every other bushing was taking a beating to add to the noise. I guess we'll wait and see tonight where it ends up, then order some spacers to take the place of the rubber isolators. It seems kind of strange, the OEM uses a nice rubber spacer impregnated with steel for a quiet ride, then the aftermarket just uses some hard rubber/plastic to replace them with. I am surprised that someone doesn't make a spacer with some soft stuff to go to the body. Anyone with some advice from here would be helpful. Thanks!

I have a Stant pressure tester, but don't have the required adapter to go to the traditional radiator cap. I have seen one FZ25 cap adapter, but at $41 I could almost buy an entire 25 piece kit with a pump. I am sure to use it on more vehicles in the future, but don't really NEED it at this time. I would like to pressure my system up to see if I have any leaks since I smell coolant. Please post links.

Good info here, I will need to investigate this further when I'm in there! Yes, I need those rubber isolators as well, or a similar brand.

I am surprised these coil springs have went bad, but it's been about 13 years since I bought them, time flies! I guess I will buy some OME 2930 coils and some new rubber spring isolators and see where that puts me. My adjustable track bar tie rod end is worn out, I can't find any replacement tie rod end for it. I think it was a Superlift? No real brand name, I just knew the tie rod end was bad, I guess I will have to buy a better adjustable track bar. If anyone wants to chime in on any other ideas, or which adjustable track bar I should go with, feel free. I have the OME coils, Moog spring isolators, and a BDS adjustable track bar in my Amazon cart, another $500, sigh.

My front coil spring mounts are rotting out, above the rubber isolator. I can't find a replacement for them, just the bump stop cup. Are these replaceable, or are they welded to the body? I thought I had a broken front right spring because the right front tire rubs on turns, it didn't when I first got these tires. They either sagged just enough, but it looks like I need to replace the mounts, but possibly the springs as well. I hate that they are all rusty, so I would like to buy some OME coils while I'm at it, but they are pricy. I want a SOFT ride, I have JKS adjustable uppers and lowers and a 3" lift, but when I look at the truck I don't think I have any lift in the front anymore because of the sag. Tell me what you think I should do, and what to buy.

It plays well with my Diamond Audio 5-1/4" components, I always wanted to put in my 6.5's, but it's not worth the effort anymore. I was going to do a DSP, go Active, have a Biketronics amp and an ARC amp for my sub, went with a simple Alpine 5 channel and can't be more happy. It fits behind the seat with a ton of room to spare, and it was 5 minutes to throw it back there, looks good carpeted and finished. It would have cost me $300 in material to make my own custom box for my Alpine shallow 12, sometimes when life catches up you make compromises that in the end turn out just right.

Probably late to the party, but I am running the Kicker 48TCWRT122, I really wanted to build a big ported box for my Alpine Type R shallow sub, but I went the cheap and easy route. I am powering it from an Alpine PDX-V9's sub channel with 500 watts, it is perfect. The truck is fully covered with dynamat extreme, but that rear window slider rattles like mad when pushed. I figured a sub with a passive radiator was a good compromise instead of a port. I am an audiophile, but I prefer a lot more bass than the traditional, a sub or two IS a requirement, not a option.

Depends on a LOT of things, you want a touch screen radio that fits in the DIN opening, look no further than this Sony. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV8100/Sony-XAV-AX8100.html?tp=5684 What's your budget on this? This will cover the HVAC controls, but I'm sure you could reach behind. You could get some el-cheap-o Android head unit and, well you will see... You could get a simple Alpine 149bt and have the Bluetooth hook up every time you step into the truck flawlessly, then control your songs on the radio. A touch screen in this dash is going to be a nuisance, if you want to modify it you will lose the HVAC controls, or the best vent in the truck.

I have the rubber boot and I wouldn't recommend it. It scrubbed the paint so much I have to buff it out. I just want a window on the cap, I don't need to open my slider and reach through the cab into the cap.

Sounds like you have a bad ground for your sensors under the hood. This could be on and off again if moved slightly. Have you gone through the harness and soldered every junction point and verified 0ish ohms of resistance while moving harness? The TPS is very sensitive to ground fluctuations. This seems to make the IAC motor do crazy stuff, the O2 sensor could be faulty as well, but I bet it is a ground problem. Check your voltage at the TPS and move the harness around, then start moving to every sensor and do the same.

Ok, I found one, but I can't buy it from Brazil. Last night I tried to install the one I bought from Amazon, the truck started and immediately stalled, so the old one was wired back in. Back to trying to find the unicorn. https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ve/MLV-740529845-conector-sensor-map-jeep-wrangler-grand-cherokee-25-40-52-_JM#polycard_client=search-nordic&position=2&search_layout=stack&type=item&tracking_id=843640b2-8ed8-445b-8f0e-393b54591777&wid=MLV740529845&sid=search

I'm convinced the internet doesn't sell the '96 specific connector. It's the one on the right of this picture.

I have a renix jeep with a stroker and 99 intake with bbk throttle body. I would like to use a 96 MAP sensor and mount it on the throttle body. There are only 3 wires to extend and I have a new map and harness. Will it work? I don't know if there any differences between year parts that the computer will have trouble with

Sweet! I will reference this topic when digging into my problems, very similar.

I thought about an LS swap, I know it would have been work either way. I wanted to keep the stock gauge cluster and I didn't see anyone making something that would work with the pre-96 cluster so I went stroker. If I were me then I would go LS. Times are way different than back in 2009 though. I would love an LS, my Renix 4.7L stroker is a dog and there's not tuning it. Just add some injectors and adjust fuel pressure, sure you can tweak the MAP to fool it a bit controlling pulse width of the injectors, but it will never be like OBD2 or a stand alone injection system with fuel tables and such. It has grunt, I have the 12CW crank so it revs slowly, but runs out of steam at 4k rpm. There should be someone here that can help pick out a nice setup and piece it together for a decent price. You have to think of all the stuff you want to keep, it looks like you don't really care about stock looking, are you doing the interior swap? I think they make an LS computer to work with the CAN bus gauge cluster of the XJ/MJ. If you go that route it would be nice, or you can get the display for your gauges. So many options!!!! Motor mounts, cooling, driveshafts, nearly everything is different going LS, but if you can get a parts list to compare that will help. The motor is the cheap part.

I just did a current draw test last night and got 281A max, the first time I saw just over 300A before I hit the MAX button to retain the max amperage of the crank. I would imagine a cold start would be over 400A in the winter when it really struggles. I see 160A is supposed to be the normal starting current of a direct drive starter, I would imagine a gear reduction starter would be less. I have a Mean Green MG3210.

If anyone can share a link or brand for these parts I would appreciate. It sounds like rubber is the way. I would buy springs, but I wouldn't know which to buy, I want a soft ride. These were advertized as 3" lift, but I doubt that as soon as I put them in.

This lift that I put on the Jeep 15 years ago worked perfect until recently. It rubs nearly every time especially in reverse so I think the front springs sagged over time. I never did extend the bump stops up front so I'm looking for extended bump stops and possibly a one inch polyurethane spacer. The problem I see is the Spring perch looks rusted and destroyed. I would like options on what to do. If I buy the acos spacers I believe they are 1.5 inch minimum and that maybe too much. I also I believe have a sway bar problem when I Drive out of the driveway it clunks with the tiniest little bumps. I replaced the body bushings again 15 years ago. I don't think my sway bar links are long enough either.

Do you have the part number?

Does it have A/C? Post a picture of yours.

I know not ideal, but start with CarPart.com, call one in an area where the sun isn't lava all year around and ask them if they can send you just the knobs. Worth saving money if someone will work with you over the phone.

I plan on sending the ebay one back, in my new research I found the LAST ONE on RockAuto. Google never seems to search their site, I don't know if it's an algorithm problem, or if it's because of their ladder structure to find items. For what it's worth, the actual Bosch fuel pump number to search for is 0 580 453 477. The number 69302 is nowhere to be found on the actual pump, I believe it's an internal number for Bosch to sell a "Package", meaning all the accessories including the hose, clamps, O-ring, pigtail, rubber grommets, etc. The pump number is 0 580 453 477, if you need any other of the parts to convert the old larger pump to a newer style, you need the whole package to do the install. What a deal/ordeal