knever3

Soooo... I am running a 4.7L stroker and it seems on moderate throttle input the A/F ratio stays around 14.7 like usual, it takes a LOT of throttle input to get down to 12.5/1 so I have always been concerned about not having enough fuel or maybe lacking some performance. I do not have an adjustable MAP sensor, I run a '95 stock fuel pressure regulator at 38psi if I remember correctly? I have 21lb/hr injectors. So my question is if I bypass the resistor would it allow more fuel? I know it is dependent on fuel pressure and duty cycle of the injectors, but worth a question. If the fuel pressure isn't lacking it shouldn't have anything to do with it. I just haven't had any tuning done except switching FPR's and injectors to accommodate the long and short fuel trims and go into closed loop. I have a Snap On scanner and a wideband O2 monitor onboard. Just a novice at tuning Renix.

Mine but it's a distant picture. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Yeah I wish ARB would sell a normal bumper without the extra winch stuff. I like the design for sure. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I am looking for a front bumper that allows me to keep the factory air dam and not trim the fenders. I don't plan on putting a winch on it. I want protection from a deer mainly. I like the ARB style for sure, but it seems like they are designed to trim the front end. If anyone has ideas like what I am looking for please post a picture. I want side protection so a overhanging style like the ARB would fit the bill. Thanks Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Got a deal on something I've been looking for. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I'll give those a look, it shifts when it is supposed to up and down and the torque converter locks up like it should. I changed the fluid and filter when I put the truck together maybe 10k miles ago at the most. The TCU and trans are from a '90 XJ as my truck is an '87 MJ. I will also check the switch, I notice it does work ad shifts slower or slips more then set to the comfort mode. Might as well bypass it since I will never use it anyway. Thanks for the tips Cruiser once again!

I have a '90 AW4 in my truck with the 242 transfer case and it shifts slow even with the sport shift on. I think it has some slippage when I really get on it because the throttle doesn't seem to match up with forward movement. It seems the torque is absorbed by the tranny. I have a 4.7L stroker and it barely spins 1 wheel through 1st gear. I went through the 242 and it works good so I really don't want to upgrade the input shaft to the 23 spline. I know the 23 spline is "slightly" stronger, but has anyone actually broken one? Do I pull it and have it rebuilt this fall? It has probably 230,000 miles on it. If I have it rebuilt I want them to hot tank it so it is cleaned, I pressure washed it before putting it in, but it's still filthy. It has that Tennessee sand/mud baked on. What would you do?

My '87 Comanche had a problem today, the Right Front caliper locked up. I tested it by jamming on the brakes and it pulled to the Left HARD. It was pulling to the Right when driving to alert me before hand. I replaced the caliper today and test drove it again after bleeding. Still pulls to the left, but not as much obviously. The entire brake system was new when I rebuilt the truck. New '96 MC and booster, new brake lines, new hoses, new calipers, pads and rotors, deleted rear load sensing valve. It is a '93 Cherokee Dana 30. The ONLY thing that has been burning in the back of my mind (for years) is when I flared the Right Front hard line the I feel I did not reem the ID of the tubing. Maybe it is enough of an obstruction to inhibit flow. Thoughts? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

That didn't last long, left the truck outside overnight to see how it would do in the cold. Wife gets up and says "fixed the idle eh?" Back to the drawing board. Any other ideas? I took a small video this morning of it.

Well, that did the trick. It was dipping to 540 RPM's and then chasing the idle. The set screw was loose, it probably worked its way down over time. I started with some shims to determine how much to adjust it. I was able to adjust it from the bottom even though the screw is upside down to prevent tampering. I will drive it this weekend to see how it feels, thanks a ton guys!! Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

What is the normal idle speed? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

https://youtu.be/keSWerL3qPY https://youtu.be/RDy_Tm0VoVQ Okay, made some time to take a couple of short videos of it running with the scanner, vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge in the mix. To me it looks like the vacuum at idle is good, I tried using MAP gas around the intake manifold and the engine didn't move off idle, so it's safe to say I don't have a vacuum leak. The fuel pressure stays solid. As for the throttle body I have the BBK newer style one. It seems the idle air control motor isn't working like it should, that should not change at colder temps though. I have replaced the IAC motor before. I changed the TPS as well while putting the motor together. I have not replaced the intake air sensor or knock sensor or temp sensor. I wouldn't think my cam would be the cause of this. Here is a picture of the specs of my cam as well, stock valve train.

It seems EVERY Renix system has had this problem, mine is no different. Well here goes, it's a Renix run 4.7L stroker with a BBK billet throttle body, 21lb injectors if I remember right and it has run like this since I put it together. The idle chases up and down and never settles into a normal RPM. I have the Snap On scanner and nothing seems awry, the temperature comes up, goes into closed loop runs fine. I would like to fix this mostly because it's so annoying I don't like driving it like I used to. I have checked the vacuum and it goes up and down with the RPM, so I don't know if I have a leak, can't remember what the value was off hand. I have went through the harness and got rid of the splices and added a few grounds, nothing has changed it. I have a family member that offered to help, but I want to get a handle on it myself since he lost almost everything from the flood in 2019, he lives in Sanford near where the dams breached. I don't want to put him out for this. So where do I start? I have checked the manifold bolts, but haven't sprayed it with anything flammable to see if I have a vacuum leak. My mind works better bouncing ideas off others in person, but the forum will have to do I guess. Any ideas will help. I will upload a video tomorrow if I get a chance. I should hook up the scanner and a vacuum gauge so you all can see what I see, run it until it goes into closed loop and you will have a better idea where to throw the darts. Thanks everyone!

Sometimes I miss the brush guard that came with the truck, and for some reason I liked the gray wheels a lot.

Getting the itch to pull it out of the garage this spring. I foresee no more salt on the roads so on Monday it will get full insurance on it again. I had big plans on replacing all weather seals on the windows and putting new door speakers in. I am going with 6.5" speakers so I have a spare door to play around with to get it right the first time. I have two amps and a 12" sub to build a box for. Nothing got done this winter as usual. I never have enough time to complete anything having a family now. Not that I would trade anything, but I would like to get it done this spring.

I had a friend that had his Cutlass dash redone there, yeah it looked excellent, and it was costly.

I want to know if anyone knows the thread size and pitch to put regular nuts on the back wall studs. I am aware they use steel speed nuts that do not have actual threads. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Hmmm... I didn't think it would come from the back of the cab. The truck used to be a manual and my seat belt wire never seemed to work with the buzzer so I will have to pull the carpet back and poke around. Odds are I never had that harness since mine was a manual. Now to find one.... Anyone?

I have a renix era Comanche, the wiring inside is mostly from an 87 and some from a 90 to be specific. However, I don't have any wires or sockets for the shifter, neither the 4wd or the Trans. Could someone help me find the sockets and where they tie in at? It has been many years since I put it together, somehow I missed the lighting for the trans tunnel. Thanks

It is a simple two piece bushing, one on each side. I think the problem is that they don't have enough rubber to insulate the engine NVH no matter what you do. I don't know if stock motor mounts would fit in place of the brown dog ones to try, but maybe I will buy a set to see.

I have a built stroker and have the full bracket brown dog motor mounts with the rubber inserts. I followed the directions and left the motor mount bolts a little loose and used nyloc nuts so they won't come loose. The problem is when it idles EVERYTHING rattles, dash, mirrors yeah that. I am almost tempted to go back to the stock ones, but I already threw out the stock frame brackets. Do I have any other options? I enjoy driving it, but the whole truck shakes and buzzes so it is very fatiguing. Ideas?

I want to drive it when it's finished, auto or manual I forgot. Manual would be fun and sound awesome! Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

So the sheet metal console will house a sub? That will sound pretty tinny compared to a typical 3/4" thick wood constructed box. Have you thought about applying sound damping to the interior after powder coat? Maybe some fiber fill as well. Cool idea for the console, just an audiophile couldn't help but chime in. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I've got tiny 235 on there right now. I want to go to 255 or 265. I just don't want to bottom out the shocks.

I have sifted through many threads and cannot find the simple answer of which extended bump stops to use with a 3in leaf back from Hell Creek. Can anyone provide a link to Daystar or whoever provides this? Thank you. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk