knever3

I am in no hurry now since JB weld seems to have fixed the problem for now. I would like to have a spare if like for like. let me know and send me a pic if you stop out again thanks!

Sweet! Wish they made that for the Renix system. It would be nice to see what's going on under that hood of mine. Good luck!

One of my seat belt covers broke so I am in need of a good replacement. If anyone has one or knows where I can buy one please shoot me a link. Thanks Like this one

That looks fantastic!

I removed my pan on my Cherokee a while back, used a cherry picker to keep the engine up. You need to remove the motor mount to lift the engine up enough to get the pan to clear the front diff. If you have a 2wd you may be able to clear without removing the mounts. With the trans removed the engine is not supported so you will need to use a cherry picker. It's not that fun, but I got it done.

The heck with that old pickup, what I want to know more about is that sweet 80's Nissan hardbody pickup with the intercooler in the front grill! Maybe it's just the radiator since the grill is removed, but one can hope it's a RB26DETT from a skyline :banana:

Very cool can't wait to see how it turns out!

Called the shop that had my stroker motor built after ripping it back out this fall. I dropped it off a month ago and decided to get the courage to call him to check up if it's not been stolen. "Significant scoring on the forged pistons, so it's back at the machine shop where they will rebuild it once again." So that explains the horrible knocking I was getting ever since I put it in the truck!! Sounds to me that the tolerance for the forged pistons were too tight. Seems like a race shop would know better! We'll see, I am almost over the truck all together. I would love to sell a couple of cars and just get a new Cherokee Trailhawk and call it a day. Too bad the payments are too much for me to stomach for the next three years. I have had a hard time not getting my lawyer involved, at least he's good on his warranty so far...

Where are you located? If you are close to Hesco just go there. A reptuable shop who will stand behind their product and can dyno it is worth every penny! Mine is back at the shop after I pulled it back out and delivered it nearly 3 weeks ago, no response yet. :fs1:

I don't think now is the time to decide between Renix and HO. Thew time to decide would have been before you bought the HESCO relocation kit. The size, shape and distribution of the notches and bumps on the flex plates are different between the Renix and the HO because the CPS for each operates on a different principle and generates a different type of signal. The relocation kit would have to be configured similarly. The problem is, the information on HESCO's web site doesn't say if the kit is Renix or HO. Before making a decision, I'd suggest contacting HESCO to find out. My guess is that, since these kits were offered by HESCO before the HO came to exist, the relocation kit is going to be a Renix-only affair. Yeah I already bought the kit but haven't installed it. Time to make a decision...

The more I think about it I am in WAY too deep. I have these parts for the Renix system on my '94 block, '96 ported head and '99 intake. Brand new 100A Bosch alternator Hesco TPS adapter Hesco Crank Damper CPS relocation kit So if I were to go with an HO upgrade I would have to buy a new alternator and brackets, A/C compressor bracket etc.

So with the stroker out again and going back to the engine builder to see what's making noise I have a few decisions to make. As some of you know it's a '87 Renix with a stroker with a '99 intake and fuel rail. I have had a heck of a time finding a Renix flexplate that will work so I bought the Hesco relocation kit with crank damper so I can run just any flexplate. Now is the time to decide if it's worth it to ditch the Renix stuff and go HO. Less problamatic with more accurate gauges (mine are all off and I can't trust them for anything) Updated parts so finding them will be easier. Expensive and time consuming I would have to change all my sensors, the gauge cluster, the fuel pump and all wiring. Not an overnight task, but the entire drivetrain is already out. Speaking of drivetrain I would like to go with something newer, getting away from the 21 spline stuff and going to a 231 instead of the 242 because the Novak cable shifter doesn't work with it. There are a ton of things to do, basically find another donor and strip everything and make some stuff, relocate everything under the hood etc. Question is, would you do it?? and why? Make me a believer, to be honest I am not impressed with Renix anymore.

Yeah if it wasn't so gawdy maybe it would sell better imho. Gold treatment, bra, running boards, visors =yuck. Give me a laredo anyday.

S.I.C.K!

Very cool.

Great work!

12cw = great for offroad. Slow revving with lots of momentum, it weighs 60 freakin lbs :eek: . Oddly enough the 4cw is the more common and is far more friendly to a typically street driven truck. Much snappier revving. I have heard both horror stories and heavenly stories about people building 4.0 strokers. I was literally days away from pulling the trigger on building a stroker for my MJ as well; money in the machinist's hand, parts delivered to his shop, block, crank, rods, head, everything, the whole sha-bang. Everything was perfect, until i found out i had lost my scholarship for college. It drained every last penny from my stroker funds (entire years worth of saving) to pay for a single lousy semester. Easily the most painful thing i have forced myself to do. I will have my 4.7 i swear it! or an ls1, that would be fine ;) Anyway, what combo are you running? 4.2 rods with 4.0 pistons or 4.0 rods with Keith black or Diamond or Ross or Bulltear pistons KB ICON forged pistons 4.0L rods The folks over at jeepstrokers.com say that if you can swing it, the 4.0 rods are the best way to go because they are slightly longer and allow for less severe rod angles. But most people can't, because it requires pistons with extra high/custom wrist pins. I could go into more detail, but i am pretty sure you know what i am talking about. Also\ Whats your compression ratio? 9.5:1 Any pinging issues? Nope Cooling upgrades? Stock, no issues mechanical cooling fan, haven't installed the electric secondary. Waiting to install my A/C condensor. Engine management? Stock Renix with a wideband O2 sensor, readout in the cab Did you need to add a FPR? Running Hesco AFPR

I'll let you know after I take it back to the engine builder. We spec'd out nearly every part, but there is a tick I can't ignore. In my experience I'd rather have my frustration and money back and went elsewhere. LONG story, if I would do it again I would choose a little bit different build. I am used to motors that rev quicker and more freely, this motor is the opposite of that. With the 12 CW crank it revs slow but when it does it gets going quickly. I would rather have done a LS swap, but the money would have been 3 times what I wanted to pay. To be honest the 3800 SC from my Grand Prix would be awesome. In the end I wanted it to look stock and that's what I have. You know how many people walked by the back of the truck and said "4.7L, how did they put that in there?" Once they noticed the engine looked stock and the valve cover said 4.0L they just walked away because they don't know that a 4.0 could be punched out to a 4.7L.

Yeah it is, I have either another cracked flexplate or another ticking noise to sort through. I haven't dedicated time to it quite yet. I got a lot sorted out though, just the noise that's the only problem left on the dockett.

My wife was nice enough to take some practice pictures of our truck. She hasn't edited these so don't critique them. Enjoy the pics.

I met a nice couple the other weekend during a classic car show, figured I'd bring out my truck too. Their truck is very nice, '88 with a '98 conversion inside and out including 4wd and auto with A/C. Their son did all the work and they just take it to shows because they enjoy it. They were from Rockford MI. Nicely done. Mine is the one parked in the background. Nothing to report, just had a good time.

Yes I have, I plan on replacing it just for a piece of mind anyway. It's a little difficult to see up there and I am pretty fast on replacing it so I will do what that post suggests and if I don't see any cracks I might just pull it out anyway to give it a good inspection. I took a video today to let you guys hear what I am talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ1VbtAWZrw Here is a short video of it revving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wIU0HXWljI See what you think, I think it may be a bit of both, but without putting a new flexplate in I cannot rule it out.

So revisiting this old thread, I think the junk yard flexplate cracked with my new stroker. I still have a new Crown flexplate but as you know the timing windows are in the wrong position. Anyone want to take another stab on what to do? I can take a video of the noise, just the other day it was 90 degrees out and the noise was almost completely gone. That is what leads me to believe it's another flexplate. I need to make sure it's not any type of mechanical noise before the "warranty" is over on the motor.