knever3

I need a door check bracket that bolts to the body, does anyone know if this is available new? I don't want to go used if I can order one. I drilled out the broken bolts but the bracket is broken. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Beautiful truck loved reading and looking at your pictures thank you. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Great project! Take your time, every time I work on mine it seems the project opens up into a much larger one. Kind of like a rabbit hole. You will be pleased in the end if you take your time. I guess I don't like doing anything twice! Great to see your project. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

With gauge? Do you mean the gauge in yhe cluster or a real one? The gage in the cluster always reads low compared to a real gauge. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I believe there is a bearing in that housing. My 231 had a bearing in the back that got driven too far and crack the housing, the only way I knew that is when I took it apart. They might share the same tail housing and they're much easier to come by. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I would love that! After my Renix/96 stroker swap I would love to add A/C. Not looking forward to all the figuring what I need now. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

If the picture works this is what I did a while back. I found out that there is next to no cabin gain and a huge mid-bass hump that needs to be toned down via EQ. My new route is going to be a large ported box for my shallow Alpine type R 12" and a small amp. I plan on running active for my diamond audio components up front as well. I am not happy with the staging of the tweeters being so low, but I don't want to put them in the A-pillars yet. Because of these A-pillars being unique I don't want to screw them up. If I get the itch someday maybe. What I was going to use was Biketronics amps because they are crazy powerful for their size. I have dynamat extreme all over the cab and doors, but I want to use black hole tiles in the doors at some point to absorb the back wave of the speaker. Too many things to do with no time or funds to tinker with.

I have had very good luck with the Bosch. My fuel pressure regulator was making down. I took a pair of needle-nose vise grips and pinched the return line to see if the regulator or the fuel pump was leaking down. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Can you post some links? I'm having trouble finding exactly what you have there. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

I really enjoy all the pictures and time you put in to the truck, looks fantastic!

Big Dan did you sell these to rokinn? If not I am interested if rokinn passes since I am in need of the same. Thanks

Here are the pictures of my door seals. I am thinking of pulling them off to use paint stripper and remove the paint. I need to find the plastic rivets that fasten it back on before I remove them. Any chance anyone knows where to get them?

I have looked off and on for a OEM antenna replacement for my Comanche, the aftermarket one is garbage I have on there now. Does anyone have a source I can look?

I do not, I have the '87 doors, will this still work?

Just to clarify I am not looking for the entire door seal I've replaced them with the newer style ones already. The one I am looking for is the one that is mounted to the A pillar alone that is only 2' long perhaps? It is just there for the rain to get directed down to the hinge area instead of resting on the actual door seal. It is mounted on the outside body pillar not in the groove that the entire door seal is mounted. It is seen in the most left side of this picture.

The body shop painted my rubber rain guard that is mounted on the 45 degree A pillar when you open the door. Does anyone have a source for these, I have done an exhaustive Google search and can't figure out what it is called or where to get one.

Yes I worked out the stroker motor, I just rolled past 50,000 miles. It was a learning curve, but with the information of the combination of the wideband O2 monitor I have mounted in the dash and the Snap-On MT2500 scan tool I diagnosed the problems. The Hesco fuel pressure regulator I was using had a failed diaphragm or check valve letting all the fuel immediately leave the fuel rail after the key was released. I ended up using a stock fuel pressure regulator for a '95 XJ and 21lb/hr "neon" injectors in place of the Ford 24lb/hr ones. It runs excellent and I have put a lot of miles on it mostly back and forth to work and Home Depot. I took it on a 2 hour road trip to the Detroit auto show and it performed flawlessly. I still have some small things I need to address like the idle surges so I will check my idle speed motor when I get time. It gets 15 mpg approximately. I don't track it in the winter because I let it warm up before I go anywhere. I am limited in power because I am still using the stock HO throttle body. I will gain a lot of performance when I finally buy the BBK one. Thanks for the shout out and for all your help!

My drivers side door arm rest has the innards broke up in many pieces, I would like to buy a replacement. Black only and please send me an email because I don't check this site as often as I used to. knever3 at gmail.com

I like my Afe performance header and I have a 99 intake.

I do not have a locker, and if I took out the driveshaft the output shaft would spin without any braking so I don't get what you mean there. I would also have to shut the truck off because the trans would keep spinning and try to grind to go back into park. If I'm off base let me know on that.

On my Comanche I put it in reverse and I hear a clunk that sounds just like a bad rear u-joint. The drive shaft and joints are new and have no play. I was under the truck while my wife put it in reverse and drive. The driveshaft seemed to move 90 degrees without the truck moving at all. I am thinking excessive ring and pinion wear, but any other ideas of where to look would be helpful. I have the aw4 and 242 case with the lowly Dana 35. I have read somewhere that the spline on the output of the case could be bad. Seems like a long shot though. I didn't have the time to spend today checking everything over so any replies would help when I do get time. Thanks

It would be awesome if the back would show the back of the truck and tailgate where the word JEEP is clearly embossed!!

Black seat belt with a silver plastic cover.

A lot has changed since I updated my thread. I was a noob on the whole stroker thing so I ruined two pistons so the motor came back out and got another rebuild with new parts. Now I have a lot more respect for proper fueling, I bought a Snap On MT2500 to use along with my wideband O2 monitor in the dash. Now I can see what's going on under the hood. The hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator was bad this whole time, the check valve never worked. I have been chasing why the fuel pressure would drop to zero immediately after I shut off the truck and why it would never prime. A call to Bennie and he said to send it back and he'll rework it. I have to show some pics too. I really want larger tires and the 3" springs really didn't lift it like the rear leafs. I think I will buy new coils instead of the acos because they are so expensive. I am driving it daily now and it's working great. I also think I need a larger exhaust so in time...

Yeah I was aware of that, just wish I could just get real time data and adjust things inside my ecu. That is awesome you are taking this step, a costly one for sure! Good luck and I will be watching this to see how it turns out for you.