knever3

I indeed have the Wix filter which is metric. So that means I have a Renix filter on an H.O. 90 degree mount. What a mess.

It should be an AMSOIL EA042 or a Wix 51381. I will snap a pic later today, If I look up those two filters one is metric, the other standard.

Hmm.... My filter housing looks like this: See how close the battery terminal is to the end of the filter? I always thought I had put my Renix one back on when I built it, but the block is from the H.O. era. I always seem to have problems finding a filter to fit, well, one that is any good. I always have to order one in, they always have the junk $6 filters, but no good brands. I will look at my filter, it's an Ams Oil filter currently. I didn't know they would rotate, but if I am going that route, I better replace the O-Rings since they are going to leak once I break it loose. What would you do? 1.) Replace the filter housing with the old style Renix? 2.) Rotate the current filter housing? Pro's Cons?

I posted in the wanted section and poked around in the search, but not finding what I am looking for. I have the old Renix style oil filter that points to the rear of the engine, my short oil filter hits my Mean Green starter. I need to change to the one that locates the filter upwards, plus it's hard to find filters for this Dinosaur. Does anyone have one that want to part with, plus links to the O-rings would be a bonus!! Thanks!

I have a Renix engine, my oil filter points to the back of the truck, I have a hard time changing the filter because it hits my starter. I want to put a newer style filter adapter on it with the new O-rings. It will need to be shipped to 48640.

What flexplate did you use? They are balanced as well, but can't be installed in a different clock position. How is the water pump/clutch fan?

My current alternator (See what I did there...) is a completely new Bosch 100A alternator. I think I am going to add a volt meter and hall effect ammeter to my truck, they are pretty cheap. I'll just put the sensor on my alternator charge wire and can see what float voltage is, charging voltage and current at any given scenario. The Autozone static test that gave me a "ok" print out was a joke, especially after the idle was at 1100rpm's at the time. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Waterproof-Display-Voltmeter-Transformer/dp/B0BFJ5NV5L/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aJvoGqVcTh33MrpnnbjyqAVDWW0thAKt7BT1eFhIKylxLS7bd_ITvqkz9bv_9hIoJ6OyYj568hxDaaA0PZJRICjtvA9WtB-hX1MSYi_ivKUTUQFRwQTw67dkjNpBaO0raO6jJoLnU0qzPBNZnpIIM9H1xlQ_-jXYmtFLb26Pa419rHjVQqKw7Kayk4oAaUQT7pEuZjJmjW77Q8QPqmDm3Y8AgzpwXOT1csQ2ZYEUXpQ.xmgRCQSZ3Nbtp0CkEU4uGFIlLiQYkfHNo1R-D3In9Go&dib_tag=se&keywords=hall+effect+current+sensor&qid=1770061054&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I think my hunch was correct on having the wrong information entered into the scanner. JTMW6416HT173200 is my VIN, but entering it in the decoder doesn't do anything. If T is my 10th digit on the scanner it says my truck is a 1996. I selected 1987 and 1990 since I don't have the VIN for the 1990 XJ I grabbed the Auto computer and TCM from. Anyway, it works again. I must be missing a digit before the J, but from my picture I can't seem to find one there. I did some researching and it seems like I am missing the "1" first digit which didn't show up on my picture I took somehow. I had Autozone use some cheap meter to see if my alternator was charging, but I don't trust it. If I turn my headlights and fog lights on my battery voltage goes down to 13.2v. I think the alternator is not putting out enough amperage to keep the voltage up at low idle. I don't really feel like taking it out to have it bench tested, but I don't have any way to load test it other than measuring voltage while some accessories are on.

Funny you mention that, the 9v keep alive battery was bad when I pulled it out of storage, after replacing it with a fresh battery the readings were erratic. Hmm.... I am wondering if I am picking the correct options. I have an '87 which used to be a manual with no A/C, but now the ECU is from a '90. I wonder if the setup I just picked is wrong. My truck runs exactly like that, maybe just a stroker/renix thing. I may be asking too much for a steady idle.

I really enjoy all the effort you put into your post, sorry I didn't provide the details. '87 Comanche that was a manual 2wd originally. I swapped in an automatic and TCM and ECM from a '90 as well as the engine bay harness eliminating the C101 connector. I have a '94 block (bored 0.60 over and KB forged pistons with stock 4.0 rods making it a 4.7L stroker) a '96 head, a '99 intake and an HO BBK throttle body, '95 fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. I can't remember my running fuel pressure at the moment. I have 21lb/hr fuel injectors if I remember correctly. EGR deleted. This is of course running the '90 Renix engine control. I have run a smoke test recently, the throttle body bearings have a slight leak, but not severe. The crazy part is the readings with the MT-2500. At idle all of the readings are all over the place, I can't begin to troubleshoot if that is the case. Strange thing is, it seemed to be idling just fine, but the RPM, throttle position, manifold vacuum etc. is all over the place!! This morning I remote started it and heard it surge up and down the whole time it was running, mind you it's -11°F this morning. I would like to see what the IAC motor is doing one of these days, but if the scanner is not giving me the correct information then all is lost. On a separate matter, my alternator doesn't seem to charge at idle. I had recently replaced my battery because of hard starting, it had a bad cell and was not keeping a charge. I noticed that off idle my headlights would dim, then get brighter when I just moved off idle. My idle was low, at 550 rpm, so that might be normal for an alternator to no provide a charge. All I know if if I remote start it and run it for the desired time it's just draining the battery for the 20 minutes, and for my 10 minute drive it has to hurry up and charge it back. I don't have a long drive to work. I adjusted my throttle plate screw to get up to the required 750 RPM, but that should be the IAC motor's job. The throttle plate screw should be just a stop when the butterfly is closed against the body. Oy

I am 13 years into figuring out why my idle is erratic. I just changed the idle air control again with the '91+ style for the BBK throttle body. I pulled the IAC and cleaned and measured the resistance. Idle was low at 550rpm so I adjusted the throttle plate screw a touch and it stayed at 750rpm. I was watching the rpm on the MT-2500 and it went nuts, rpm and theottle position was all over the place, all at idle in park. What in the world! I wiggled the diagnostic connector and the wiring for the sensors and it didn't change.

I think I have a Rexix one, I have an updated H.O. style in the box. That is the next step.

Correct, I think they used leaky sealed bearings. I will post the result. I wish you can post a video without having to post it on youtube

I have been chasing an erratic idle for YEARS. I finally bought a smoke machine and after 5 minutes or so I saw smoke coming out of both sides of the shaft. After looking at BBK's website they don't sell ANY repair parts or provide rebuild service. What a crock, they will offer to sell you another! Great business model.

Finally was able to resolve this, hopefully someone will find this thread if they have a problem. Proper drivers side door pin switch, CarQuest SAA3753. This will also work for the passenger side, just use one of the spades instead of both. I don't know what happened with the first one I got from O'Riley's, maybe I ordered the wrong one, or it was froze up so it wouldn't adjust when closing the door, either way, I HAVE LIGHT!!!!

This looks like it would work, but no mention of the part number of course. The image search doesn't bring anything up either, and when you look up these vehicles on RockAuto the part has that long shaft that won't fit. https://bjsoffroad.com/door-jamb-switch-kit-1975-1988/?srsltid=AfmBOor_zk5WdjYLgCAiCCQe8qoqfXcKlTZ5PhWnJ5ZxUU23gjkvVQqJ

Well, it did work, but it was only connected to the dome lights, thus my chime wouldn't work for my headlights or key in. When I removed it the terminal broke.

Well, I ruined this one, tried cutting off the sleeve and cutting the spring down. I really need a replacement.

I need help with this one guys. I found out I had the wrong door jamb switch on the drivers side for as long as I can remember. I had a single wire switch. Ok, good enough, just buy one with two outputs, not!! Every single source I see has the one pictured, it's too long and my door won't close, it needs to look like my old one. Hopefully someone can steer me in a direction of a replacement because removing the rubber boot just shows the metal sleeve that is too long.

There was some play in the assembly I couldn't figure out how to get tightened up, so maybe someone yanked on that wiper arm in it's previous life and screwed it up.

I have been fighting this forever. I have replaced the bushings and added a supplemental ground on the OE wiper assembly, also repacked the motor with new grease and used Yamalube on the bushings. The result? SLOW wipers, no change, drivers side wiper slapping the cowl or the windshield trim. Take #2: Screw it, decided to pull a wiper assembly from a '00 XJ, soldered the new plug on the body harness side. Added a buck converter to increase voltage to the circuit in the fuse box. (16V too much, lol) VERY FAST WIPERS When I replaced the assembly I changed the bushings with the Dorman ones. The passenger side behaves nicely, the drivers side has a mind of it's own, slapping the cowl one stroke and the windshield molding the next. I am at my whit's end, I need to pull the cowl off and see how this functions while running because this is unacceptable behavior. Any tips I could look into in the meantime while I stew a bit more would help.

Yeah, I was weighing my options. I have a Dirtbound Optima specific steel battery tray, and I couldn't stand having a battery without a proper hold down the last few years. I know there was mixed reviews on Optima's, honestly I didn't really like my OG yellow top, had trouble charging it. My choices were to buy a new battery tray for $70, or warranty this battery and go back to the Optima. Time will tell how this plays out, sure, there are great batteries out there such as Odyssey or XS, but I didn't want to spend the money on any of those right now. I am so glad this was still under warranty and it starts great now.

I was on Optima's website, I guess it's true to this day. Read The Fine Print Battery warranties generally have a lot of terms and conditions. Most describe what is covered and what is not and how to go about getting service. One thing many folks don't realize when they purchase a battery, is that the warranty coverage doesn't re-set with each warranty replacement. That means if you bought a battery with a three-year free replacement warranty on January 1, 2014, that warranty coverage ends on January 1, 2017, no matter how many times your battery was replaced under warranty during that period. Re-setting a warranty with each replacement would essentially result in a lifetime warranty and the last company we heard of, who offered such coverage on batteries they sold is no longer in business.

Here's the backstory.. I have had trouble with a slow crank on my Renix MJ. I've done/checked the following. New Die Hard Platinum AGM battery New Mean Green starter New 1/0 positive battery cable New 1/0 negative cables including body and engine grounds Replaced failed oem 60A alternator with an ALL NEW Bosch 100A unit New battery terminals Checked motor cranking amps before starter replacement, 300A. Replaced with the above Mean Green starter A year or two goes by... Retested battery, 12.1V resting, 200A cranking When started, alternator voltage at battery was 14.7V Figured battery had a bad cell I was going to buy another Optima battery since my battery try is made specifically for these oval batteries, Die Hard never fit, just sat there. I called Advance Auto to see if they had one in stock, their website kept redirecting me to a Die Hard battery even when they over the phone gave me the specific part number, strange, but they had one in stock. I pondered for a bit, and thought, I wonder if mine is still under warranty? Sure enough, it was! Went to Advance, they tested it, sure enough, dead cell. I said I wanted to get the Optima battery and pay the extra, he said "our policy is like-for-like, unless not available anymore." I said, "I'm not leaving without that Optima." He called his manager and made it happen. I paid $60 extra for the battery. Now, this is where it finally gets interesting. He said you have a 13 month warranty on this battery. So, the Die Hard actually had a 4 year warranty, this Optima, 3 years. He said because it is Pro-Rated I only get the remaining warranty. I said Pro-Rated went away years ago, now it's just a replacement based on years/months. Am I missing something? Hopefully this battery lasts 3+ years and this will be a moot point, but I need to know if this is how battery warranties work.