knever3

I didn't pull the rotor out, however I did pull the cover and repack the grease so the pins may have gotten moved. I'll revisit when I get a chance. The wipers don't return when I shut them off, but I think it gets confused going through the delay setting on the stalk. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Waiting for a parade this morning, had to drive two cars and the sun beckoned for a picture. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I love my Hella E code housings, Hella relay harness, and Hella 550 driving lights, but that light pattern and color temp is beautiful. Links to setup? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Just got done pulling the assembly back out, a few things of note. I added a ground from the case ground to the vertical bracket bolted to the cowl from inside the engine bay with a piece of 14 AWG wire and ring terminals. I opened the gearbox up and the grease was still perfect. Decided that since I was in there I cleaned it all out and put moly grease back in. I had already put moly grease on all the linkage bushings previously. They are still about the same, although I think I fried the delay box while unplugging it while the wipers were running. They would not shut off. So now I have no delay. I measured 13.1V at the delay plug. I guess it is what it is, OLD. Now I will open the delay box up and peek in there at some point. I remember someone has done this before but can't remember the outcome. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I was thinking of 1.5" spacers myself, they are 265/75/16 Duratrack tires. I guess I go the spacer route, I am assuming Daystar? Is there any difference? All poly? I will most likely need longer sway bar links, anyone have a part number for a slightly longer set? I have Moog ones now and I don't need disconnect ones.

Here is what it looks like now. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

My wipers are slow and kind of jerky. I replaced the bushings when I pulled the assembly out. They are much tighter now and don't slap the cowl. They are still slow. Added a better ground and checked voltage. I have delay that works in every position. I wanted to open the motor and clean and grease it, but I thought the bolts were going to break. I don't want to spend $100 on a reman motor and have the same problem if that is the way they were designed. Does anyone have a success story they would like to share? I thought about retrofitting a newer motor from a 97+ but haven't seen if that was possible. Maybe a video would help. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

The cups seem very loose, especially on the right side. When you raise and lower the tailgate it moves around. I will shoot a video tomorrow. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

No aftermarket bumper I thought about spacers, but didn't think they were very safe to use. I haven't wheeled it yet and don't plan on it. I would like to go on a trail ride color tour that won't scratch the paint at some point in Michigan. I will snap a picture tomorrow on level ground. The front tires rub when turning into my driveway with the suspension travel. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I remember a thread about a tailgate lock years ago, but I don't remember the link to the part. I am tired of closing the tailgate and having the hinges bind up and then the tailgate tries to fall off. I want to install a lock for two reasons, theft and to prevent chipping the paint and you can imagine other things. Does anyone have any updated links to something like this?

I just put new duratracks on my truck and just noticed that the front is a measured 2" lower in the front. I can see two options here. Get the ACOS or buy new springs and hope they raise the front end just enough. I have never gotten around to installing new bump stops so the ACOS should work for that too. Are the bump stops adjustable? I bought my springs from Morris off road and I am really second guessing that they were even supposed to be a 3" lift spring. They were advertised as a 140# spring rate. I want a comfortable ride. I have JKS adjustable upper and lower control arms. I will need new front sway bar links too. So what route should I go with? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I decided to give the "Pink Website" a call to go over some questions and make sure I was getting the correct parts. Yeah I could have saved money looking elsewhere online, but they had everything in stock and the guy knew what he was talking about walking around the warehouse. I can get behind a business like that. I decided to get a new tumbler and key set, went to ebay to get AMC keys to get cut though. Now I just will wait to see if my key in buzzer will work again. On a side note my lights on trigger to the buzzer doesn't work either. I have the blue box in the fuse box, but I think there is a wire missing with my conversion. We will see. Thanks for the recommendation guys!

Links? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I want to rebuild my steering column with a new turn signal lever (the one I have currently is aftermarket and is not quality) turn signal return spring is broken. The whole turn signal lever has too much play and I would like to replace it. It is very difficult to operate the bright lights as well. The key tumbler drags a little and seems to be out of adjustment because it seems to start better if I don't turn it all the way, if that is what is happening. The Renix takes forever to start so it could be something in my head. The steering column is a 1990. I would like leads on the OEM springs, multifunction switch (stalk and actual buried piece in the column) and also horn spring and plunger. I went from the 2 spoke steering wheel to the one with the horn button and I don't have a clue what I need. I see that it requires a cup and spring and plunger so I need to get that lined up before I pull it apart. Yeah it's a lot, but I would like quality parts if they are still available. If someone has a parts diagram with part numbers that would really help, especially with the horn parts. Thanks!!

For those of you who are apprehensive and skeptical about fitment, this is how it fits on my truck with the Linex bedliner applied over the rails. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I looked at the downy as well, but I didn't want to use snaps or Velcro. This was well worth the $100 I spent for it considering it's at $800 piece Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Extang Solid Fold 2 for a 2005 Chevy Colorado 6' box. It fits incredibly well. The taper isn't exact, but it is probably 1/4" difference and with it centered I won't modify it. I love it. I have a Comanche specific topper as well and I enjoy the look and function of this better. Finding them online can be a challenge. The guy I bought mine from used it for 6 months and put it in the garage when he bought a topper. He helped me put it on my truck and said it fit exactly like his Colorado did. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Finally broke down and bought new tires, boy what a nice surprise it rides much better! Also found out my OE body motor mount brackets were hitting my Brown Dog brackets and transferring vibration. Removed and modified, can't believe I have been dealing with it for 10 years!! Took my son to the tire store and he was so happy playing with old shocks, springs, and collecting Schrader valves he didn't want to leave. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I want to put some stickers on my truck, but don't want to put the SporTruck ones back on. I am thinking of the Pioneer ones. My truck is black so white/gray. Thoughts? It would look like this picture from the net. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I need to buy a hood to cowl seal, which do you recommend? Mine got painted. '87 Comanche Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

It looks like the 8.8 from the Sport Trac didn't come with 3.55 gears. 3.73 or 4.10 Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

So did you have to enlarge the holes in the U-Bolt shock plates? I am assuming the axle tube is a larger diameter? How does the limited slip work on the street? Are burnouts feasible? I am not talking crazy burnout, just for fun and not embarrassing. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Yikes, didn't know it was that involved. So no Cherokee came with disks so I would have to source that. I wish I didn't live in the rust belt, junk yards are garbage for chassis parts. I forgot my E-brake cables are bad as well so there's that. It looks like I need to find a Cherokee with limited slip and then a Liberty or ZJ with disks and buy everything. Exhausting because of the junk yards have nothing that old on hand. I just want to have new parts except for the axle.

I have a 4.7L stroker and I would like a limited slip diff. Why? Well I want to do a real burnout from time to time, and think it will help in the snow and if I go off road at some point. Yes I would love to go with a different axle. My best case scenario is a 8.25 with limited slip with disks from a Cherokee. I DO NOT want a narrower axle like the 8.8 and use wheel spacers. The problem I am having is if I go with a different axle I will need a different driveshaft perhaps, new spring perches welded on, new U-bolts and shock mounts, not to mention all new brake lines and hardware inside and out. I would probably need a different master cylinder and or proportioning valve. That is a LOT of work and money and downtime for adding a limited slip. My questions are, is limited slip going to be good for an occasional burnout or will it wear out quickly or not lock up the left side at all? I would love the upgrade, but I don't want to be down a truck for weeks while I get parts and such. If I could buy one already setup with what I needed I could put brake lines on it. The reason I am pondering this is because I refurbished the D35 axle with new brake hardware, lines, new driveshaft and U-Joints so changing it seems like a waste, but it looks silly being so tiny and the axle tubes are small. It also seems to clunk when turning a corner slightly like the C-clip moving inside the carrier. What would you do? Is it worth the trouble? I don't think I want a locker since it will be driven on the street almost exclusively.