knever3

Blue buzzer, I have it removed for the moment. On a side note I've been looking for a steering column for over 2 years, everyone has one in Indiana and Ohio, but haven't found one in Michigan. Floor shift Auto, no tilt, black, but I can paint. My turn signal lever is droopy and leans to the left and it's so far into that mess and EXPENSIVE to buy I'd just rather change it out. My ignition cylinder sticks on start, never had the ability to turn back to accessory to power the radio. I changed the ignition above the column and still doesn't work. I just want things to work like OEM, is that too much to ask! lol

Contact in the steering column, meaning the gray wire that senses key in? It shouldn't be affecting the lights so I must have something wired wrong.

I have had problems the last 10+ years since I built my truck. The problem I have is the courtesy light operation. The right footwell light and the pillar lights work fine, the left (or drivers side) one only comes on when I put my key in the ignition. There are a couple of plugs under the dash that are identical, but I can't get the light to operate correctly. The door buzzer doesn't work either, meaning it doesn't buzz when the lights are on, or when the key is in the ignition when a door is open. The light sentinel doesn't work I got from an XJ either. I would love if these would work as intended. I've left my light on a couple times and killed my battery and I can't see anything in my truck because the lights are terrible. I have a 4 pin harness that goes under the dash that the plugs are different and the wire codes are different as well. I found out that one of these wires was for the torque converter lockup. I spliced those together, but don't know what the others are for. The key in ignition turning my footwell light bulb on really makes me shake my head. I have the FSM for my '87, and I have recently downloaded the one from a '90 which is the donor truck I used. If anyone has any ideas they'd like to share to help me with this I'd appreciate it!!

I can't seem to find any real pictures on here, or on Google for that matter, of overhead console ideas. I can't stand the side lights, they are useless, even with bright LED's. I want a nice overhead console front and back to light up the cab. Any pics and leads on which vehicles to pull them from is what I am looking for.

Ok, next question and it's a doozy... I currently don't have a cat installed when the last exhaust shop did it. I could buy the Walker cat for $163, or a piece of stainless pipe of length equivalent for $25. I plan on going with lap joint band clamps so I will just buy the correct fit ones to slip over the pipes and tighten down. I am not going with the cheap $3 U-clamps and pinching the pipe anymore. I want the ability to remove it if needed. I am also wondering if it will contribute to a quieter sound if I go with the cat. I have a 4.7L stroker motor and I am not worried the least bit about performance at this point, just quiet sound and a nice simple install. If I go with the cat are there any drawbacks? I would save $130 going this route, but the thought of a scrubbed exhaust without the smell is appealing, plus the possibility of a quieter sound, acting like a resonator of sorts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDF9FZ3L/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3TLXJZFCGL7E5&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YDK3HD6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2Y7J3VVCF64S3&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8Z9HE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=APDXIEMX0ZAGX&psc=1 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/walker-tail-pipe-aluminized-70-46701/3384772-P I price shopped and found Advance Auto to have a great price on the tailpipe so I went ahead and ordered that first.

Why did you switch your cross member? Was it due to exhaust only, or were there other considerations?

Great info, now to find a tailpipe. I don't really want to cut it down if they make a specific part, can't even find the right part number to search.

Years ago I had a custom exhaust done, it was/is terrible. The clamped connections all leak, the donut has blown out and the input of the muffler will spin by hand and obviously leaks. I see that there is a stainless downpipe from ebay I will get, but I need help on the rest. I need a cat or pipe replacement to go from the tailpipe to the downpipe. I can't seem to find any tailpipe for the 6' bed, only the 7' bed. I would love stainless, but no one wants to make one because no one will ever buy it. I need a QUIET muffler, I have had two different mufflers and they were both loud and just want quiet now. Yes, I'm old. My neighbors hear my truck running for 15 minutes every morning revving up and down. Yeah my idle sucks and have spent countless times with little improvement, another bother on it's own. Please give me options/links to individual parts. Here is the downpipe I am going to get. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174147556494 I have an aFe stainless header so I'm good there.

I have a '99 intake port matched and a 62mm B&K TB.

Yes just the ordinary muffler clamps. Could you guys post some links for the whole system? I have used these clamps before and they are very nice.

I have a 4.7L stroker and have an afe stainless header. The outlet is just the same doughnut 2-1/4" as usual. I had a shop run 2-1/2" pipe after the downpipe with muffler, no cat. They simply ran the small pipe in the larger pipe and put a clamp on it. The system had several leaks as nothing was welded, they just used clamps and exhaust puddy. The muffler inlet broke and completely came apart. There isn't any type of flex pipe installed since I had Brown Dog mounts at the time they said the motor would never move. I have since went back to the OE rubber mounts and need the exhaust quiet. When I start the truck outside it wakes my wife up nearly every morning. I am tired of the exhaust leaks and the noise. The stroker is actually a letdown for me, not the power I was expecting and the noise is just annoying. What options do I have? I would like to just buy the pipes and hang them myself, but I don't have a welder. I want to be able to remove it since the crossmember won't allow you to pull it out if you have to service the trans/motor/tcase. I was going to get all mandrel bent stainless at one time, now I just want simple walker or something bolt on. The problem is I don't want to pay $800 for a cat just to put the whole thing together.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/595819812711133/?mibextid=dXMIcH

I run Joe Gibbs HR2 10w-30 Racing oil in my stroker because of the zinc content, with a quality oil filter as well.

Thought I would share the cookie my wife made me today. She made this image in MS Paint years ago from my truck and decided to print me a cookie she made.

I wish I could find someone with the talent and dedication you have in my area. My truck needs some attention and body work/metal work is not anything I want to attempt. You do house calls? I'll fly you over, lol! Great work!

I bought the Master Lock tailgate lock and it interferes with the tail light and gets pinched when closing the tailgate. I am OVER it and saw someone posted they made one, looked like it was machined out of stainless with a capscrew to hold it together. Anyone have a link to the FB page or a link on here? The search engine here pulled up either 3,800 results or 120,000 results. Ain't nobody got time for dat!!

What is my MAP supposed to read anyway? I would expect it to read the same as manifold vacuum since that is what it uses to forward the value to the computer to determine length pulse to the injectors. I just did the mileage calculation not using my remote start and I went 200 miles on a tank of gas with 18.4 gallons, that equates to 11.9MPG! That sucks, especially with gas at $4.69 for premium. I had the Fuelly App on my phone and I thought it used to be somewhere around 14.7MPG, not that makes much of a difference.

I have 21lb/hr injectors if I remember correctly. I tried 24lb Ford injectors and that was too much. It would pull fuel all the time and run super rich. I have a '95 fuel rail and FPR as well. 99 intake BBS 62mm throttle body. Bored .60 over 4.2 crank 4.0 rods. I measured the ground circuit to battery and got 0.4ohms. The voltage was 5.02V with ignition on. I replaced the vacuum line with Cruisers elbows and line from the port under the throttle body this time. No change in voltage on the mt2500. I measured the engine vacuum with a analog gauge and it read 18". So do I just have a bad map sensor? Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I measured the ground from B to battery ground and got 0.4 ohms. Perfect [emoji108] I measured the reference voltage from A to B and got 4.863V. Between B and C my Output voltage was .827 Volts. So 4.863x0.17 is 0.826V. Perfect so I didn't change or adjust the TPS. I still can't figure out why my MAP vacuum is low. It has a rubber line from the intake to the MAP. It doesn't have a leak so now what? It idles better in warmer weather for sure. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Great Job!! Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Hmm, well I ordered another TPS and will clearance the Hesco adapter if this new one binds. I'll check into the Map sensor vacuum as well, thanks for the tips guys!

Correct Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I believe so, the last time it went full lean like it shows I replaced the O2 sensor and it worked for a year or so. I called zeitronics and talked with the tech and verified and bought it from them again. I thought about buying a REM to put above my display to get more info instead of using the MT2500 at times. I don't know if it's getting water in it or what. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

This is after it warmed up. The blue display is my dead wideband O2 so pay no attention. The TPS still isn't right and I've tried to adjust it a few times and can't get the proper voltages. I have that janky Hesco renix to new style adapter and if you notice it looks like it's sticking so the idle won't come down. Should have gone OBD1 Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I have had a rough idle with a misfire the last month and am looking for direction. I have a renix stroker with 99 intake and bored throttle body. Of course this cold start sounded normal, but I didn't let it run long to warm up. My wideband O2 sensor is going bad again. I replaced it once already so kind of mad about paying another $100 just to measure A/F ratio while driving. My TPS looks suspicious and my fuel trims look off. Let me know what you think of the short video. Ok don't know how to post a video, so I will post a link. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk