yxmj

By pass the valve and plug the vacuum line.....search the site there are a couple of threads on it... :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

People complain that I watermark every image I post.(I know they want to post it elsewhere.) Honestly, people who cover up their license plate usually do so thinking it will prevent others from looking up their home address. The unique forum/social media name people use is enough for me to find a home address for most people. How do you watermark an image?

How about this....is it helpful

If I remember right you will have to play some games with your speedo it might be different EDIT....yes it changed http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm

And as we all learned from this thread if the diff does fail on you........you can wear the cover as a hat :thumbsup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65nNcNiwJHM

What is the ratio of anti freeze you are using......maybe it is not enough for the temp. Run a 50/50 mix and you will be safe. There are testers avalible to check your existing if you need to.

like this

I was just about to edit to say that :thumbsup: That would bring it up to somewhere around 20/80.....or good to 12 F

alright, i was not running straight water in my engine, i am smarter than that, however i only had bought one gallon of antifreeze when i swapped my last engine in and it took about 1.5 gallons of water to fill it That would have given you a ratio of (+/-) 33.33/66.67......You should have been good for -25 F.........are you sure it was coolant anti freeze? As far as the other matter....run the truck up to temperature in your drive way....open the hood and crawl under....look for any leaks or drips....that will lead you to the leak :thumbsup:

does the block heater go in place of the freeze plug cause i can see that benifiting me in the cold, Redwolf Yes

Your second plan might be more feasible.....if you had MPFI the the side draft would be more of an aesthetic piece.....it would obviously allow more air flow as well.....I would only hook up one side with TPS... :dunno:

It might not be as bad as you think.....if you have not pushed a frost plug out then it might be as easy as warming it up and changing the fluid......and you need to run antifreeze.....at least 25/75 was -56 F in the wind up here last week and my 2.5 did not freeze up and i only run 50/50......some go as high as 70/30

The light is not triggered by the speedo but by the engine vacuum ......on the AX tranny;s there is a 5th gear switch that de-activates the light in 5th ( cuz if it didn't you would try to shift into 6th :doh: )

You can tell by my avatar we have almost the same MJ :thumbsup: One thing about the older 2.5 is there is a goofy water line that runs under the TB ( maybe to preheat it???)......this is probably the culprit because you say once it warms up you have no problem. Easy fix up here is plug it in......Do you have a factory block heater? If not there are after market ones available. Mine is a hard starter when not plugged in but 2 days ago it was -47 C (-52.6 F) MJ was parked with the nose into the north wind......but it was plugged in.....Started right up. You only need to preheat it for about 45 min. prior to starting to get good results. My guess for the trans would be that the fluid is just thicker when cold and warms up with use making shifting easier.

It would depend on the amount of weight you want up there......With 1x1 it also might not look aesthetically correct....it might look too dainty (IMHO) look at the pics above. Mine was 1.5 x 1.5....1/8 wall.... Looked good and carried a good load

How about this.....The center hole of the rear drum is were the Hub is.....The center hole on the front rotor is were the hub is......They want you to find spacers that fit snugly over these hubs. Now if you want to get serious.....you need Bi-centric spacers to really rock and roll

Prior to the flush.....drain some fluid out and pour in a gallon of vinegar (or more).....run it up to temp......this will loosen any scale and gunk in there.... Then drain and rinse it like you planned.....the only residual effect you will get is the urge for fish and chips for the first few miles.... :cheers: And yea......Change the stat

:rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: ....Roll her in talcum to find the wet spot..... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

:shake: :popcorn:

Have a buddy spray you down with a garden hose while you are inside....you will find out exactly were the water is coming from.... :thumbsup:

The YJ would be Under axle leaf springs so quite a bit of fab work is required. The WJ would fit but they run CV's (if that is a concern) as do some ZJ TJ would fit but the coil spring bucket is mounted lower so you would have to get different springs (or spacers to keep your ride height) IMHO search for a high pinion out of a XJ.........the extra you spend on the entire unit you will save on time and fabrication.....It will bolt right up

This is a web pick but very similar to one I had made....still allowed access to the rear slider and the bed toolbox but was easy to pop on and off....i just used bolts through the angle irons at the bottom of the legs. Image Not Found Mine was made of 1.5" x 1.5" square tubing.

To that list add Floor pans( not only the front but the rear hatch).....one thing about wranglers.....the top comes off....sometimes mother nature washes your upholstery for you....... and rust behind the fender flares. Rear Shock mounts on the frame I would emphasize again what Mudfoot says about the rear of the frame were the shackles bolt up (it is such a problem they actually make replacement kits for them). I have a YJ with a HO 4L as well as a TJ with the 2.5.......with the ( I am Assuming 4:10'S) and 33's.... it might be a bit of a dog ( I only run 31's on both the TJ and the MJ with 2.5's....but the mileage comparison over the yj (3.55's and 33's) is sometimes worth it)