64 Cheyenne

Really, sounds like you pretty much got it covered. IMHO, I'd put new MOPAR slave and master, new TOB if external slave, new synthetic 30wt, front and rear seals, pilot bearing. You got the "guide" for what needs to be done sitting in your garage (donor XJ). Good luck, take your time, after your third tranny and second engine this MJ stuff gets pretty easy...lol

Think this is his complete donor for his MJ. Doors and rear quarter glass can be sold, 2dr stuff getting harder to find. Keep save everything you MIGHT need for and after your swap. Sell rest of shell for scrap.

I call BS from the glass shop. I order glass for a 98 XJ, don't tell them it's a MJ, reputable glass guy easy peasy....No BS Or do it myself if $$ is an issue.

Napa

Where was the top pic taken? Thats so cool.

Question is how many spares do you need, and how much is your time worth getting more spares that you might already have? For me it's not how much it costs in $$$, but the cost in time, which is worth waaaay more than money.

You really need that XJ, It has ALL your parts and them some, you need to convince your dad how much of a gold mine it is.

Going to WA next week....Warp Tour with kid.... Car dolly....Hmmmmmmm? lol

If it was me...I would have owned that XJ as soon as I seen it. Soooo many parts.... :drool: don't forget the "Jeep rule" concerning purchasing Jeeps and parts to others "It's easier to do it and beg for forgiveness, than to ask and be told NO". Honestly, that XJ is a gold mine especially because of the AX15 and the 2dr specific parts like the doors and glass which are getting harder to find =$$$$. One more thing you said the guy told you "it would need a new clutch", and I say"wise man does not put tranny in with old or questionable clutch assembly or components".

This is what I did... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973 Mine was really bad as seen in the 88 build.

For the six old guys like Jim who use a computer and might be on facebook? :rotf: Sorry just had to throw that in, and sorry Jim I don't know, can't help you there. VA maybe? When I was in, I think they said you would need SS# or DOB to find service members.

And only $95 dollars in shipping and sent from 6 locations...jks Kind of the only reason I don't usually buy from them, if I buy numerous parts seems they always ship from different locations and I have to pay full shipping on all of it killing the savings.

Why do you HAVE TO HAVE an external slave? IMHO if you put a NEW MOPAR internal slave you should be good with this tranny. http://seattle.craig...5106892504.html FWIW you WILL need ALL the TC linkages for the AX15 from the vehicle it came from including the body side bracket. This bracket has the linkage holes in different location that is specific for an AX 15.

I did this repair, IMHO if you gonna do it, take it apart and do it right....cable clamps...really? :rotf: I second the ratchet strap idea (I do this), don't like the idea of relying on a single cable to secure my spare. And lastly, I used the pipe idea on the end of my cable, now I have 4 nice matching sawblades instead of 5, suggest finding correct center piece so you don't ruin a wheel (aluminum) like I did.

*%&^$&^%$ Those bagged columns are fugly! These are all stand alone in the column (trigger/impact sensor) without a computer. FYI, these columns have a mechanical "safety" that needs to be engaged before you pull the wheel/bag...see manual. I wonder if you swapped in a non bagged column, how would you get the cruise to work?

Did a 134 conversion on a New Yorker, the low side conversion had a schrader valve in it, when I went to fill the system it would not take refrigerant. I removed the stock schrader valve from under the converter, 134 went right in. Seems the plunger thing on the converter wasn't pushing on the stock valve or wouldn't let it through. After removal, all was good.

You don't have a seat at all? The bench brackets can be removed and used on buckets.

Ya need one of these http://www.powerprobe.com/ I bought a first gen tool, no multimeter, but powers up circuits, identifies "ground" one of the best tools I ever had for working on electrical. Paid $30 bucks for it on fleabay.

Volt meter lies. Confirm voltage at the battery with a multimeter. The flickering is still indicative of poor grounding, I'd suggest adding more grounds somewhere or checking the condition of your sockets, maybe jumper one of them to ground see if that helps with the flickering. As far as the alternator goes, if your really in doubt, take it off and go have it tested. Me I replaced my alternator when it did same as yours, no change, wasted my money. Verified at the battery that I'm charging, never thought about it again.

Congrats! :clapping:

"Only idled around the earth 3 times" IMHO, if I was looking, I'd consider buying that Jeep. Maybe try get them to come down a little, seeing that it's from Davies Jeeps. (Probably got it dirt cheap)

Yup. My friend put the right side pan on the left, and vice-versa, correcting visible entry/exit compression in the foam.

Power for rear washer pump XJ Same as reg power wire hooked to MJ wash pump.

:clapping:

I remember seeing my dad warm the round oil cans on the stove to get every drop....