64 Cheyenne

Give it time.... before you know it, you'll have 3 MJs, a couple XJ donors, you'll be able to just go pull one from "stock".... Actually, I think If you look around, you should be able to find a decent used one for under a hundred bucks. Or your first whole donor for one or two hundred more....

Good mechanic doesn't really care what name is on the tool, just that he gets desired results from it. Wouldn't be the first time that the "cheepo" got the job done when the high$$$ stuff couldn't....All day long, in my job, all I do is fix stuff, from steel to plastic to rebar, cars or electrical whatever it might be just another situation needing a different tool, sometimes the "high dollar tool" is just a BFH....git er done!

Our Cheyenne belief is to not cry for our pets when they leave us, we believe they left us to take the place of another family member, who would have died otherwise. (Honestly, when Mojo passed, I cried like a baby) So sorry for your loss

As the title says, on a 91 4.0. Entrusted someone to replace the balancer, clearly schooled them how to do it with a longer "starter" bolt... Well the job didnt get done, when I went to finish it myself, I found they stripped the bolt in the end of the CS..... any suggestions?

IF a new warrantied part was available, they would only warranty if you could PROVE that you replaced the master cyl and line along with the slave. On another note, whats the age and condition of the master cyl? Do you know about the horror stories of leakage onto the fuse box from a failed slave cyl?

In my shop, 3ton stands only go under cars, 6 ton stands are for Jeeps and pick up trucks.

Shot in the dark, but how about TPS? Did you get it wet or otherwise mess with it lately?

I would say safe, as long as you have a different brand of jack stands with higher capacity...

I wouldn't do this ever, good way to bend a shift rail, finish the tranny off for good, unless you good for a rebuild or replacement. From what I've read, it doesn't seem you've figured the problem out yet, so I would take it easy on the tranny, you don't want to compound the problem by causing damage to an otherwise possibly good tranny. Me, I pretty much always shift into first, (with correct clutch disengagement), (or any other forward gear) before I go to reverse, because the forward gears have synchros and reverse does not, in doing so, it stops the trannys rotation and reverse drops right in.

LOTS of drinking was always going on up there when I was stationed at Cartoon...got my fair share of stories, and some of them were mine. Sad

When I was a kid, we had a Willys Knight...

If you still have this ^^^ I recommend you delete it. Eliminate a possible problem area, which the factory did anyway with the in later XJ years

Got pics of this?

I'd like to note one thing. If you don't want to remove the head, you don't have to. They make a hose adapter that you can screw into the spark plug hole that pressurizes the cylinder with an air compressor. It prevents the valves from dropping down into your cylinder. I would also suggest manually turning the crank to where the cylinder you're working on is at TDC. That should be double insurance. Or, you could likely do it that way without the use of air pressure. That air hose adapter is seen here: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU Old guy showed me how to put rope/cord into the cylinder to hold the valve up, keep it from falling in. put the rope in, turn engine to move piston up, change spring seals or whatever pull rope back out when done.

It's not the freeze plug at the back of the head? And if it is there is a rubber plug that mechanically tightens until you can drive the proper metal one in. My next question, "hissing?"... sounds like you might have another issue going on to cause an overheating/over pressure condition. More info please... Open or closed system?

Kind of off topic, but the spring loaded center punches...aren't kept under spring tension, they kind of "C#*@" when pushing, then push harder and they release, then there goes the window. And the worse part, car thieving, burglarizing punks love them. Guess I'm missing something here, I didn't think that when you c*ck a gun it was a bad word....who knew :dunno:

I was always under the belief that trackbar style was to be used in a double shear setup, learn sumthin new every day...

I have a 91 S-10, had a bench seat in it. If it was buckets.... would they fit on MJ floor brackets? Maybe, the MJ bench brackets and bucket brackets are the same, pretty sure mounts will have to be fabbed so the S-10 seats could be mated to the MJ floor brackets. The S-10 floor brackets will not fit an MJ no how no way, so yes you might be able to mount S-10 buckets. Did this answer your question?

Harmonic balancer is a visual inspection, no go with a stethoscope (engine running), might be kind of interesting though... Take a good bright light, shine up from below, or down from above, look between HB and timing cover. Actually if the HB is bad it should be apparent that its separating.

Disconnect the power wire at the AC compressor and try again. This eliminates the compressor/AC system from the equation.

Re: adapter, one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html I Couldn't find the actual adapter for the floor jack, but it is something like this. I believe there has been discussion on how well it works and the consensus seems that it doesn't work very well on a floor jack, wobbles around a lot. This is what I use http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html It works ok, but if you remove your tranny with TC still attached, it can be a little tricky, in my experience, the ratchet strap on the lift is nearly useless, I cinch mine down with a separate ratchet strap around the tranny and lift cradle. FWIW, that little tranny jack is one of the best tool I've ever bought. As far as the ratchet strap used on the jack, I cut the side off that has the ratchet kept the side with the strap because it makes a good leash to drag it around the shop. And for the mouse: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52595-mouse/I always look at the front of the HB for separation on the front, but most commonly if you look REAL GOOD down behind the HB you can see where it separated and the metal part or possibly just the rubber part has "walked" back and is hitting the TC. And I believe Don (Hornbrod) posted this up first. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281679237322?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Freight doesnt mean that it WILL be on a semi, they do deliver with box vans too. I usually have delivery's like that dropped at my local small town parts or hardware store. Being friendly with the managers helps.

Maybe nurse it along till you can find a parts Jeep (XJ) with an external AX-15, use what you need, maybe sell the rest, get your $$ back. FWIW, I've bought at least 3 whole wrecked XJs with AX15s, two were external slave, paid $300 or less for each, look around, they out there.

I'm meaning sorry in the fact the OP has to pull the tranny again... :(

You bought them without knowing how many lbs (I think per hr) they are? Will the connectors attach? Are they 4 hole? Otherwise its like saying, "I know this carb will fit in place of the old one..." and the old one was 400cfm and the new one is a 750 cfm... I know I have injectors on the 88 that look like that, newer style body (better than the large barrel style Renix that leak) 4 hole and I'm not sure how many pounds, I'd have to dig for documents for that, but when purchased, they were for stock displacement normally aspirated Jeep.