64 Cheyenne

PM me, I'll sell you a complete set for $20 bucks plus the ride. FWIW, the LEDs in the euramentec lights suck, I'm sure there are better brighter LED bulbs out there.

High volume oil pump on an old worn engine = possible spun bearing.

Check connectors at TB TPS and IAC for moisture.

Flatbed it for a while if its that bad.

Would have been just as, or a lot easier, to wrap that chain around landing gear handle...

FWIW, 96 was a bastard year, personally I wouldn't use the engine controls from this year, harness or computer... If you have to have SRS, I'd suggest getting it from a computer controlled total 97up conversion, because it was all engineered to work correctly together.

Yup, and I've gotten up at 3am, and went back to the truck on break, and walked all the way back across the parking lot to make sure it "was in gear". Next time you wake up at 3am....ask your self, did I park in gear.....then go check....

Manual or auto tranny?

I've seen a few reeeeeaaalllllll nice stockish 2wd MJs for +/- 3k, and a few even better for 4 to 5k, add 3 to 4k to build or pay to have built the way you want and something you can trust.

Got a link on where you were going to order kart parts?

I was thinking of doing the same thing with a 95 XJ column I had, I decided that the airbag stuck in the middle of the wheel was an ugly I just could not tolerate. So ugly, almost along the lines of early GM ones where they looked like they were plopped into the middle of the wheel and called it good....fugly! I'd suggest removing the old column, place the bag column next to it (make sure you "safe it"), arm yourself with schematics and a multimeter and have at it. You might luck out and be plug and play since you are HO already. This is not a second gen swap (or component), and this column is not second gen, second gen is not stand alone and is computer controlled. FWIW another reason I was going to do this was I would get cruise controls on the steering wheel which I wanted more than having an airbag. It seemed that the easy way would have been to switch to complete OBDII that the bagged column came with (I am Renix, you are HO) then I figured if I do this I might as well go the whole way...so now I have a complete 97 XJ, gonna do the whole thing someday on the 87, then I get everything plug and play.

Doesn't work so well on an automatic. :rotf: Maybe in North Dakota? :rotf:

That's where I would have turned that truck over to finish it off because I would have been so mad...

If it is just male pins into a female socket, I'd use a crimp butt connector end on each wire, heat shrink it call it good. Use the female side of the connector to slide over the male pin. Red wire hot, black ground, wrapped in wire loom.

And snakes are bad, look at the Everglade problem with invasive Boas, and the lack of birds on Guam. https://nationalzoo.si.edu/Animals/Birds/Facts/fact-guambirds.cfm

I'd seal the garage better, do away with the snake. Bats are way more beneficial than that snake. And as is my understanding, bats in North America are in a serious decline because of white nose fungus. https://www.whitenosesyndrome.org/news/european-origins-fungus-killing-millions-north-america%E2%80%99s-bats-new-study-finds-genetic-link

I like the lock, so much easier....

Last go kart thing I had, the first thing I did was straight piped it...next week park managers outlawed go carts and mini bikes...go figure. This is a cool Idea, wheels already turning...

If this was me, I wouldn't go in the MJ if if this issue wasn't resolved. As far as helping, I'd check fuel pressure, maybe put the old injectors back in, see if that helps. And look at the plugs... FWIW the only time I had issues like this were from contaminated fuel, couple cans of HEET later all was better, and I'm not a fan of HEET because of alcohol base, prefer to keep tank full to prevent condensation.

Doesnt really matter with coolant circulating all the time. If you wanted to be mechanically correct then pressure in at the bottom to eliminate any trapped air. On the 4.0 that I have done, went Tstat housing out, to top of heater core in, keeps lines straight and not crossed or twisted.

I'd replace both front ones, kind of like fixing "one" brake, and no you don't have to replace the rears, just insure the ground is good behind the left rear tail light.

If you replaced the sockets already, I'd check your grounds, maybe add another ground at the battery to "frame", maybe use temp jumper wire at the socket to see if an added ground will help.

Make sure you have extra mass in the tow vehicle...especially if you towing with an MJ.

But the improvement in efficiency is created by slowing the flow of coolant through the radiator so there's more time for the heat to be transferred from the coolant through the tubes and fins and into the air. That's the reason the racers trimmed the impellers -- to make the system move LESS coolant at high RPMs. That's essentially what the restrictor is doing, and it seems to counteract the purpose of a high flow water pump. I've thought about this for a while now and is the reason I haven't purchased a "high flow" WP. Gotta give the radiator time... to... transfer.... heat...insteadofgetitthroughathighflowandvolumerightnow!

Replace the front turn signal sockets, replacement can be had from the help section of many auto parts stores. The front sockets corrode internally causing weird ground paths and other turn signal issues, replacing mine solved weak illumination, slow blink etc.