64 Cheyenne

But this one is just a spacer, it does not have a forth hole for increased structural strength.

Just as long as you use dino oil till the motor is broke in, then synthetic will be fine. Couple other suggestions, always keep covered when not in use, I don't believe in running dry for winter storage, and only use premium non ethanol fuel if available in your area. This a big a big one (fuel) I worked repairing small engines for a while, easily 50% of our business was carb rebuilds due to oxygenated fuels.

If you don't have the ability (smoke/smoker), get one of your smoker buddies to do it. Meaning remove a vacuum line blow smoke in it, see where it leaks out.

Yup aint going through the BS just to see the price...

I have this, installing it now, well sort of, along with other goodies, then plan on a major update on my 88 build thread. My point is, the 4th hole doesn't line up, no big deal, gonna set the box in place drill through existing hole in frame for proper location and call it good. Thing I like is that it picks up another hole for better structural strength, ties in to the winch bumper plate on the other side. Real strong.

I've talked to and read a lot of articles where people have left it off, even when it is in good shape. AFAIK the XJ's don't even have that rail cap piece. Nobody has reported a single problem not running it, and IMHO I would rather not have it in place. It makes it possible to coat the entire floor instead of having a potential in-road to more rust. I figure I will leave mine off, weld it more than factory, and call it good. I feel more comfortable with doing this since the C2C pans I ordered are a thicker steel as well. Now I just need the chance to replace them... Just did the pan on the drivers side, I did not buy an aftermarket pan, I made a posterboard template, then welded in a piece of 16ga about 18 x 24. As far as the raised sub frame, I deleted it, it does not appear to be frame structural but rather to back up the side support for side impact protection...I'm gonna run JCR sliders (bought them a few years ago) so I still have my side impact protection.

When doing freeze plugs, should a sealant be used?

If the snow is that deep....I'm in the wrong vehicle. Besides snow wheelin sucks unless it's cold enough to stay on top.

And you owned this truck how long?....lol

^^^Yup IMHO PIA, I take them off, leave them off. They look cool, but I've never been in a situation where it would have helped me get unstuck or caused something to not get damaged and as Cruiser said they're always in the way when you need to work on something in the area.

Tube is structural, measured outside. Pipe is measured internally, so that it's volume can be calculated in a controlled system. Lots of videos out there show you how to make that bender work with pipe or tube.

Beyond Junkin it, this is best idea to save it.... maybe way out there, but given time and I'm sure somebody would do it.

Why not? they are plentiful and cheap, easy to change, and the seat bottom bases can be swapped L to R to correct for sag. I just redid a set of tip forward buckets, no way would I cover them up, they look so nice, look nearly new and not that hard to get done.

I like the "Endangered Species"....

This one is on and working perfectly. Thanks for all the help. How hard was it to replace the switch, and did you have to disassemble the column? FWIW I bought the same switch....

Auto or manual? doesnt sound like valve train...

Be ready to wire up the DS or get a plug from HF to stick in the output of the auto trans.

option 3 is my backup plan Probably the best till you get a 95 XJ booster. Hope you aint planning on trying to use any of the ABS stuff, pump etc, its all or none, even if the ABS isn't working proper (no anti lock feature). You could end up paying a lot of money to make the ABS work and IMHO aint worth the cost to get the benefit if you can get the ABS to work. If it's a safety issue, you should get a more modern vehicle with a better engineered ABS system.

Arrrghhh, threw a set of these away because I was in the "take em off" camp.

No Money could be more beneficial spent else wheres.

1. I wouldn't use any of the ABS stuff in the engine compartment. 2. I would do a 95 XJ dual diaphragm booster conversion. 3. Last resort, keep all the MJ stuff, and do the rear proportioning valve delete.

Sounds like using RA for this could be more problematic, if not the correct part, returns...suggest face to face purchase.

Real small, smallest that you think you won't break, and drill all the way through to the water jacket. Because the crack is all the way through...

I'd have to agree with the adjustment of the start switch rod, maybe the new key switch changed the "throw" of the rod.

Add spacers?