64 Cheyenne

What! No cops? If it was me, they'd be all over the place before the wheels even stopped spinning... No ticket?

Are you 4x4 already? $600 goes a long way towards paying for a regear with a warranty.

Sounds like you answering your own question....Replace and save your current tranny, then with the $1200 you saved by installing a $300 JY unit, rebuild/service your original with new oil, seals and small parts.

At full droop? No less than a half an inch? Seems to me I'd be worried if it was engaging much less than 2 inches.

Most MJs with a manual transmission don't have this. Jeep didn't start using it until a couple of years after Chrysler took over. Thats funny, all this time I was just assuming that it didn't work... :rotf:

Don't forget to check the neutral safety switch, under dash, connected to clutch pedal.

IMHO, short arms with 6" of lift just plain bad engineering... all force is transferred longitudinally directly to the unibody instead of up/down action in the springs/suspension. Long arms=$$$, on the cheap, DBs and adjustables.

Quick question, if a Renix stays in "open" loop because of bad o2 sensor or other cause, would there be any outwardly identifiable symptoms, ie poor fuel mileage (of course, mine has), fouled/ carbon plugs, hunting or surging....?

Sent you a message! I have a bad run o luck with used rads and such.... but thanks for the suggestion :) I might be skeptical of a used JY radiator, but I would definitely consider using one of those types (JY) coolers for the trans or pw str.

What's the 2500 for? ^^^

You need a trim tool to remove it, search utube for trim removal, real easy to do, save all the plastic clips that you can, or get a few extras from another donor (or new) to make sure you have enough. If the nubs are still there, you can install the chrome trim. And mikekaz1, If the channel is "too deep" on your Jeep, wonder why only on yours? Reality is that they screwed up your glass install. if the sealant bead was thick enough 3/8 to 1/2 an inch thick, then your glass would have fit perfect (nearly flush with the body metal) and the rubber garnish would fit proper and look good. This is true also for the chrome option, if the sealant 'bead" is not thick enough, the chrome trim will not fit tight and have gaps between it and the glass, making it look like crap. See my windshield install in the DIY, both front and back were done at one time or another.

Hope you ain't planning on towing 3300 lbs with this^^^

:popcorn:

X2

Back in the olden days before ECUs when multiple carbs with progressive linkage, solid lifters, and dual point mechanical distributors ruled, a lot of time was spent under the hood while the engine was running setting all this stuff up to play well together. These included among others setting and synchronizing the carbs, adjusting the lifters, setting the dwell, checking the timing, etc., then repeating everything again until it was right. With a direct mount temp gauge you could eyeball it while under the hood and was a convenient way to monitor the engine temps while doing these procedures so the engine didn't overheat. With engine computers, hydraulic lifters, and MPFI, you don't really need an underhood temp gauge anymore, but I like retro stuff in my MJ. Back in the day....our old Model A had a radiator cap with a built in temp gauge that you could see as you drive, real cool....

Got a hand held like your talkin about, works fine on the trail, but without an external antenna it's range is severely limited, nearly line of sight to the back of the group on trail rides, beyond that, like over or around a hill, not so good. FWIW I do have an external antenna just not mounted yet, hoping for better performance, we'll see...

Local clubs here are switchin to hand held HAM radios, way better performance over a CB, and cost is fairly cheap, only thing is you need to be licensed, no big deal.

Your plan is doing a 2nd gen swap? So why all the questions? Your talkin a MAJOR swap, dash, harness, engine controls, drivetrain, everything you will be using will come from the 2nd gen. Because of the magnitude of this swap, I really doubt firewall clearance and core support are big issues, imo these are small issues and you have many other hurdles to clear like dash support modifications that will make swinging a hammer for fire wall mods seem like small beans. And as far as years, it really don't matter, 86 gets you long bed and 2.8 or 4cyl and some structural mods , beyond that everything your talkin about doing will be done to any 2nd gen swap. If you have a complete donor, you have all you need for firewall and core support mods minus a BFH if you go that route.

Those Kawasaki motors are nice, fuel injected also.

Method?

Couldn't really tell you which way, cause I didn't do it myself, just that it worked. Yup I'd suggest clutch in, and maybe remove DS as it's 2wd and easy to do. I don't think you can push it the wrong way, just don't get crazy with a pry bar. Imagine the internals, or pull up a parts breakdown.

^^^ This is my issue with the spacer, 3 holes or 4? Three holes, and it's just a beefy spacer. Four holes and its a stronger steering box mount/spacer because it's bolted through the frame to whatever you have on the other side (like mine will be, I'm in this process right now with the 88 along with a winch bumper). My 4 hole spacer when mounted to the box, has no adjustment because of the three steering box holes in the frame, then causes the the fourth hole to not line up. Are you not using the fourth hole? My plan, bolt up the three, drill across from the outside, pick up the fourth. Kind of think not using the fourth hole gives away structural strength.

https://missoula.craigslist.org/cto/5541248247.html

I recommend this if you do have to use ethanol fuel. http://www.starbrite.com/startron

If I ever do it again, I'm using 18 ga cold rolled. The 16 ga was a little tough to work with.