dasbulliwagen

The 2.5 is injected and has an in tank pump, the 2.8 doesnt. Also to make the 2.5 work, you would need the entire engine harness, and dash harness, guages and computer for the 2.5 to make it run with its original setup. Also the exhaust downpipe to the converter.... the radiators for the 2.5 and the 2.8 are exactly the same... just a different fan shroud. I would say if you had a complete donor, to go for it, but if you just bought the engine and wanted to bolt it up and go, It looks like youre going to be dissappointed.

To me, 100,000 miles would be low for an MJ! :yes:

Lots of questions there. Welcome to the club. First... Ive never heard of anyone using F150 parts to lift an MJ or XJ. If it would work the ride would be soo rough you would want to pull it back off anyways. The Ftruck is much heavier than the MJ and the ride would be horrible. Engine to swap in.... The 4.3 will not work without a full drivetrain swap. You need to look for the 3.1, or 3.4 out of a Camaro. They have the correct bellhousing bolt pattern, and the block is almost identical to your original engine, so all accesories and mounts will swap right over to it and the engine will drop in. One thing though, the original 2.8 flywheel will have to be nuetrally balanced to work with the new motor... no big deal!

You could also add the floor shift and floor e-brake too if you wanted. Would be a little more work to change out the steering column, and add the floor shifter cable mechanism, and brake, but I guess it would depend on how much work you would like to do. I don't think any cherokees came with column shift and foot brake, but I think maybe police versions might have, but I really don't know.... though good luck finding one of those.

I wish I had a garage! :(

I agree, thats the first thing I get for a trailer saftey chain setup. The load bearing type of of those loops like climbers use with the spring loaded closer.... or whatever theyre called. Available at any Lowes on the rope and chain area, or any hardware store for that matter.

I put some limited rims, or whatever they were called that also came on the country cherokees on my 2wd, I checked the clearance inside the brake hub dust cap, and tapped the top of it in till it cleared, and the center caps went right on. By tapping the top of it in, I mean making the protruding part of the cap collapse in toward the spindle center....just for clarification.

Availability of the Dana 44 under a cherokee is also debateable. It seems to have been a fairly rare option. I'm not sure Ive ever seen one, and I'm a Jeep dealer tech. I know you want a complete parts vehicle, but if you find a nice one that has everything you want except the Dana 44, you should probably get it. Part everything else out that you can sell, take your profit, and picknpull a late 8.25, or an 8.8 in the gear ratio you want. I just don't see you finding a cherokee dana 44 in a timeframe that you would be happy with. But I wish you luck anyways!

Youre lucky your truck didnt burn to the ground! New resistors shouldnt cost too much. Nice save!

I replaced front sockets for inop lights on more than 1 MJ.. they might look OK, but they arent. Test power at the socket terminals, and if you don't have it, test power at the wires just back from the socket with a probe or something. Chances are power is good on the wires, but not good into the sockets.

I'm in Charlotte today and tommorow, but I'm not driving my white MJ... and I don't have a dog.

I would say probably yes, as long as it comes with all drive accessories. You sould be able to mount up your original intake and exhaust and keep the original electrics that way. Might have to splice a couple wires to make the alternator work, but it should bolt in no problem.

I would have to say no, since the 89 is fuel injected and the 86 isnt. The PCM mounts under the dash so all associated wiring would need to go in there too. You need to find a harness from a lke engined and transed model... 4x4 or 2wd should not matter in this case.

My pump does the same thing.... sometimes its really loud, other times youll never hear it. It has yet to die on me, though now that I'm talking about it, it will go bad this weekend. I just figured it has to do with fuel level, temp, and who knows how many other factors to make it do what it does. Till it goes out, Ill just deal with it!

I think the fuel pump mounts to the side of the engine on the 2.8... mechanical pump... shouldnt cost too much to replace either if thats the problem. I'm not sure what TC they used on the autos besides the NP228, and if its a vac issue with that it could get a little hairy, as the 228 was vacuum actuated from a switch in the cab, though only the higher up models got the 228. Trans should be the A904... a light duty version of the TF727 Chysler has used forever. Sounds like it should be a good one to get going right, and $200 sounds good too!

The first time I saw it, I was the same way as you. But its one of those movies that is so genius that it takes a few times to watch it to get it! It was made with no vulgarities, swearing, nudity or anything really bad, but the subtleties in it are great.... even had a few scenes remind me of my own screwed up childhood.

Rear fender flares, outside B-pillar vent covers ( The black plastic outside trims), Interior dome lights, Metric tonne springs-ala dana 44, or the super elusive 1986 only M20 rear axle, any black interior peices especially black bucket seats.... bucket seat frames.... stuff like that. Desireable XJ parts... 2 door bucket seats, late model outside mirrors, 97 up front ends and doors, dana 44 rear ends, late 8 1/4" rear ends. Good luck.

The leather seats are AWESOME! Nice swap!

The Boss's MJ blew the heater valve the other day, and the upper rad hose looked questionable, so I replaced bloth. Was suprised at how long it took to get the air bubble out of the system. Once it was gone though it was all good. He also complained about a death wobble incident, so I balanced and rotated the tires, and threw on a Rancho RS5000 steering stabilizer. The old one was pretty well shot. All the steering parts and track bar seem fine, so we will see what happens. I'm throwing these fixes at it because he don't want to spend any money on it unless he has to. So it is turing into a fix it one piece at a time as he complains about it job.

I'm watching that movie RIGHT NOW! :eek:

I think that the pic youre talking about was photoshopped. The only other lowered comanches here are jbhill, and worldsfastestcomanche. Look up thier build threads. I know jbhill has an S10 chassis inder his truck, and is bagged, but worldsfastestcomanche custom built a dropped front beam. There are no lowering spindles available for our trucks, youll just need to get creative. I think ZJ rear coil springs installed in the front of your truck will lower you a little, but beyond that youll need a bunch of fabrication. Just search for the two mentioned builds and see what you think.

Sorry, I was assuming the fan blower motor resistor.... Read it wrong I guess. Same goes for the ballast resistor though, if the fuel pump is pulling too many amps it could cause the resistor to burn out.... might need a fuel pump. Yould could just jump the resistor altogether, but this won't solve your problem, as eventually the fuel pump may stop working altogether, or the wires will get hot enough to catch on fire. Just though too, a high resistance could also be cause by a ground issue, check the fuel pump ground behind the tailligh too, and make sure its clean and good.

If your fan is going bad, it could be pulling too many amps causing the resistor to work too hard and burn out.... replace your fan too!

Recently added power doors to mine. I agree with the three part sugestion. The factory has connectors at each kick panel to be pulled in from the outside, then the aformentioned cross body harness which connects it all together. Let us know what you got!

Are you talking about the upper ring ridge where the piston stops at its uppermost travel, or are you talking about a linear gouge in the cylinder wall that goes top to bottom? If it is a top to bottom gouge, or score, then youll most likely need a machinist to try to measure it and with his experience know if it can be machined out or not by boring the cylinders. Same goes for the upper ridge... if the cylinder has a lot of wear, it is most likely tapered due to the most wear being in the upper part of the cylinder. Assuming taper is not out of spec, you could use a ridge reamer to remove the ridge, and throw new rings in it. But I still think an experienced machinist will have to make the determination either way.