dasbulliwagen

I put some limited rims, or whatever they were called that also came on the country cherokees on my 2wd, I checked the clearance inside the brake hub dust cap, and tapped the top of it in till it cleared, and the center caps went right on. By tapping the top of it in, I mean making the protruding part of the cap collapse in toward the spindle center....just for clarification.

Availability of the Dana 44 under a cherokee is also debateable. It seems to have been a fairly rare option. I'm not sure Ive ever seen one, and I'm a Jeep dealer tech. I know you want a complete parts vehicle, but if you find a nice one that has everything you want except the Dana 44, you should probably get it. Part everything else out that you can sell, take your profit, and picknpull a late 8.25, or an 8.8 in the gear ratio you want. I just don't see you finding a cherokee dana 44 in a timeframe that you would be happy with. But I wish you luck anyways!

Youre lucky your truck didnt burn to the ground! New resistors shouldnt cost too much. Nice save!

I replaced front sockets for inop lights on more than 1 MJ.. they might look OK, but they arent. Test power at the socket terminals, and if you don't have it, test power at the wires just back from the socket with a probe or something. Chances are power is good on the wires, but not good into the sockets.

I'm in Charlotte today and tommorow, but I'm not driving my white MJ... and I don't have a dog.

I would say probably yes, as long as it comes with all drive accessories. You sould be able to mount up your original intake and exhaust and keep the original electrics that way. Might have to splice a couple wires to make the alternator work, but it should bolt in no problem.

I would have to say no, since the 89 is fuel injected and the 86 isnt. The PCM mounts under the dash so all associated wiring would need to go in there too. You need to find a harness from a lke engined and transed model... 4x4 or 2wd should not matter in this case.

My pump does the same thing.... sometimes its really loud, other times youll never hear it. It has yet to die on me, though now that I'm talking about it, it will go bad this weekend. I just figured it has to do with fuel level, temp, and who knows how many other factors to make it do what it does. Till it goes out, Ill just deal with it!

I think the fuel pump mounts to the side of the engine on the 2.8... mechanical pump... shouldnt cost too much to replace either if thats the problem. I'm not sure what TC they used on the autos besides the NP228, and if its a vac issue with that it could get a little hairy, as the 228 was vacuum actuated from a switch in the cab, though only the higher up models got the 228. Trans should be the A904... a light duty version of the TF727 Chysler has used forever. Sounds like it should be a good one to get going right, and $200 sounds good too!

The first time I saw it, I was the same way as you. But its one of those movies that is so genius that it takes a few times to watch it to get it! It was made with no vulgarities, swearing, nudity or anything really bad, but the subtleties in it are great.... even had a few scenes remind me of my own screwed up childhood.

Rear fender flares, outside B-pillar vent covers ( The black plastic outside trims), Interior dome lights, Metric tonne springs-ala dana 44, or the super elusive 1986 only M20 rear axle, any black interior peices especially black bucket seats.... bucket seat frames.... stuff like that. Desireable XJ parts... 2 door bucket seats, late model outside mirrors, 97 up front ends and doors, dana 44 rear ends, late 8 1/4" rear ends. Good luck.

The leather seats are AWESOME! Nice swap!

The Boss's MJ blew the heater valve the other day, and the upper rad hose looked questionable, so I replaced bloth. Was suprised at how long it took to get the air bubble out of the system. Once it was gone though it was all good. He also complained about a death wobble incident, so I balanced and rotated the tires, and threw on a Rancho RS5000 steering stabilizer. The old one was pretty well shot. All the steering parts and track bar seem fine, so we will see what happens. I'm throwing these fixes at it because he don't want to spend any money on it unless he has to. So it is turing into a fix it one piece at a time as he complains about it job.

I'm watching that movie RIGHT NOW! :eek:

I think that the pic youre talking about was photoshopped. The only other lowered comanches here are jbhill, and worldsfastestcomanche. Look up thier build threads. I know jbhill has an S10 chassis inder his truck, and is bagged, but worldsfastestcomanche custom built a dropped front beam. There are no lowering spindles available for our trucks, youll just need to get creative. I think ZJ rear coil springs installed in the front of your truck will lower you a little, but beyond that youll need a bunch of fabrication. Just search for the two mentioned builds and see what you think.

Sorry, I was assuming the fan blower motor resistor.... Read it wrong I guess. Same goes for the ballast resistor though, if the fuel pump is pulling too many amps it could cause the resistor to burn out.... might need a fuel pump. Yould could just jump the resistor altogether, but this won't solve your problem, as eventually the fuel pump may stop working altogether, or the wires will get hot enough to catch on fire. Just though too, a high resistance could also be cause by a ground issue, check the fuel pump ground behind the tailligh too, and make sure its clean and good.

If your fan is going bad, it could be pulling too many amps causing the resistor to work too hard and burn out.... replace your fan too!

Recently added power doors to mine. I agree with the three part sugestion. The factory has connectors at each kick panel to be pulled in from the outside, then the aformentioned cross body harness which connects it all together. Let us know what you got!

Are you talking about the upper ring ridge where the piston stops at its uppermost travel, or are you talking about a linear gouge in the cylinder wall that goes top to bottom? If it is a top to bottom gouge, or score, then youll most likely need a machinist to try to measure it and with his experience know if it can be machined out or not by boring the cylinders. Same goes for the upper ridge... if the cylinder has a lot of wear, it is most likely tapered due to the most wear being in the upper part of the cylinder. Assuming taper is not out of spec, you could use a ridge reamer to remove the ridge, and throw new rings in it. But I still think an experienced machinist will have to make the determination either way.

MOPAR no longer makes or carries the performance cams for the 2.5. I checked with our dealer parts dept to see if anyone had any laying around on the shelves around the country, NOPE! The only other place Ive found to list a cam for the 2.5 has their website saying they are closed down temporarily... like till 2012. They are in Vancouver somewhere. can't remember the name right now... have the info on the comp at work though if you want it. Another consideration for a newer 4 banger is the 2.4 that came in the Wrangler for a couple years... same engine as the Neon, and TONS of performance parts available.... and you could just swap the trans from the wrangler too. The Chevy 4, 5, and 6 bangers Ive heard nothing but bad things about them.... from GM dealer tech! I would stay away from those. Not sure about the power and torque from the 2.4, but can't be any worse than the original 2.5! Slap a cam in it, and a header.... who knows. You could even swap in a turbo. Have you ever driven a Neon or Caliber SRT4???? SCARY FAST! ( mostly because of horrible torque steer) Good luck. Let us know what you end up doing!

That is whats left of a relay.... to what I have no idea. Could be for fog lights if you have them or if it was equipped in the past and being in the front end. There is supposed to be a plastic cube like cover over the wire winding you see.

Looks to me like a broken mode door shaft. If so, youre pretty much screwed. If you have the unit out of the truck, pull the unit top off and check the mode doors there. At the very least, youll need a new door put in, at most you might need a whole new housing. Good luck

Ive been thinking about doing something similar to the 86 if I ever build it but using steel electrical conduit, making a faux bar, and tire mount. can't be any worse than rolling a truck witout a roll bar. They are built from the factory to withstand a roll and not crush all the way down allready, so a rollbar is just added insurance, and ANY extra support, be it actually structural, or just for looks will help distribute the roll impact more than just a cab. It has to look better than one of those ugly back racks. I say go for it. If youre happy with it, thats all that matters. Make sure you send in pics of the process an when its done! Good luck.

Youve been bitten, its already starting to infect you. Once you get to drive it around some it will only get worse. It starts with a few little upkeep upgrades and progresses from there, two years from now, youll own at least one more MJ, and probably another non running XJ that you want to keep for "parts", but secretly want to fix them up also. Its only a matter of time..... :brows:

I'm not sure if this helps or not, but the movie, "War of the Roses" with Michael Douglas, Cathleen Turner and Danny Devito is a good cautionary tale. Mostly saying to just let her have everything and start yourself over clean. But with kids I'm sure it different. There is no easy answer.... just time. Good luck.